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Speaker Power Concerns

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k.norberg97

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Hi all,

I was originally looking at the Pioneer TSD6802R speakers for my front and rear doors and was going to match them to an Alpine MRV-F300 amp. The Alpine runs 75W RMS @ 2 Ohms and 50W RMS @ 4 Ohms, and the speakers play in the range of 2-60W RMS, I've since switched to looking at some other speakers after being blown away by them in the shop...

The newer speakers I was looking at are the new line from Pioneer, the TS-D68F which can run up to 80W per speaker. If I match these to an MRV-F300, am I going to get enough power? I've read that it's good to have an amp that can handle more so that it doesn't have to work as hard...

Thoughts? Much appreciated!

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It will work but it is always better to use an amplifier that is 125-150% more powerful than what you need or than the top RMS power rated by the manufacturer for the speaker. That allows you to set the amplifier gain lower, still get the required power needed, and not run the amplifier near 100% of its power potential or in clipping. Think of it as a 4 cylinder running at 100% capacity building up heat and chuffing along vs a V8 doing the same, only barely breaking a sweat, both pulling the same load.

 
Hi all,
I was originally looking at the Pioneer TSD6802R speakers for my front and rear doors and was going to match them to an Alpine MRV-F300 amp. The Alpine runs 75W RMS @ 2 Ohms and 50W RMS @ 4 Ohms, and the speakers play in the range of 2-60W RMS, I've since switched to looking at some other speakers after being blown away by them in the shop...

The newer speakers I was looking at are the new line from Pioneer, the TS-D68F which can run up to 80W per speaker. If I match these to an MRV-F300, am I going to get enough power? I've read that it's good to have an amp that can handle more so that it doesn't have to work as hard...

Thoughts? Much appreciated!
Click to expand...
it's fine.. get them (online) then if u think they need more power get a 100rms per speaker amp

 
It will work but it is always better to use an amplifier that is 125-150% more powerful than what you need or than the top RMS power rated by the manufacturer for the speaker. That allows you to set the amplifier gain lower, still get the required power needed, and not run the amplifier near 100% of its power potential or in clipping. Think of it as a 4 cylinder running at 100% capacity building up heat and chuffing along vs a V8 doing the same, only barely breaking a sweat, both pulling the same load.
Click to expand...
So I'm thinking of just getting a second MRV F300 and biamping the speakers. Is there any concerns i should be aware of? And I assume that at this point I'll want to upgrade the factory wiring in my car for the speakers?

 
So I'm thinking of just getting a second MRV F300 and biamping the speakers. Is there any concerns i should be aware of? And I assume that at this point I'll want to upgrade the factory wiring in my car for the speakers?
Click to expand...
You have a very simple solution here. Put the rear speakers on head unit power and bridge your mrvf300 to the front speakers. Done deal. Unless the factory wiring is 22 gauge wire or some BS, It wont make a difference if you upgrade it or not if its the standard 18 gauge factory wire. When you start throwing 200+ watts to each door speaker is when i'd run new wire. People scare you into running new wire all the times but literally i've done a lot of tests and there's literally zero difference between 18 gauge and 12 gauge wire with 150 watts or less power input you arent burning the wires up or anything of the sort either.

 
You have a very simple solution here. Put the rear speakers on head unit power and bridge your mrvf300 to the front speakers. Done deal. Unless the factory wiring is 22 gauge wire or some BS, It wont make a difference if you upgrade it or not if its the standard 18 gauge factory wire. When you start throwing 200+ watts to each door speaker is when i'd run new wire. People scare you into running new wire all the times but literally i've done a lot of tests and there's literally zero difference between 18 gauge and 12 gauge wire with 150 watts or less power input you arent burning the wires up or anything of the sort either.
Click to expand...
Oh ok, cool. I hear a lot of people saying that under-powering speakers can cause clipping and damage them. My Pioneer AVH-X4800BS puts out 14 Watts RMS per channel. I guess my last concern is will that affect the speakers?

 
Oh ok, cool. I hear a lot of people saying that under-powering speakers can cause clipping and damage them. My Pioneer AVH-X4800BS puts out 14 Watts RMS per channel. I guess my last concern is will that affect the speakers?
Click to expand...
Clipping doesnt kill speakers directly. Heat does.

clipping is just a quicker means of generating heat. However 14 watts is way too little to do any real damage to the coil so it doesnt matter as long as you have somewhat of a high pass filter put on the rears which protects them from mechanical over excursion. Otherwise it wont die from heat.

 
Clipping doesnt kill speakers directly. Heat does.
clipping is just a quicker means of generating heat. However 14 watts is way too little to do any real damage to the coil so it doesnt matter as long as you have somewhat of a high pass filter put on the rears which protects them from mechanical over excursion. Otherwise it wont die from heat.
Click to expand...
Oh ok. I have subs, so ive got the speakers on a HPF already. What do you recommend setting the filter to?

 
Oh ok. I have subs, so ive got the speakers on a HPF already. What do you recommend setting the filter to?
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most set hp at 80hz. if u play real deep bass or rebassed tracks u can set it at 100hz if u listen to very low bass songs u can set it 60-70hz.. start at 80 and adjust from there., if u set hp at 100 set lp on sub at 100 to so u won't loose any freqs..

 
most set hp at 80hz. if u play real deep bass or rebassed tracks u can set it at 100hz if u listen to very low bass songs u can set it 60-70hz.. start at 80 and adjust from there., if u set hp at 100 set lp on sub at 100 to so u won't loose any freqs..
Click to expand...
HPF is determined by sub roll off and mid bass. Has nothing to do with what you listen to. It should be seemless transistion both phase and response.

 
You have a very simple solution here. Put the rear speakers on head unit power and bridge your mrvf300 to the front speakers. Done deal. Unless the factory wiring is 22 gauge wire or some BS, It wont make a difference if you upgrade it or not if its the standard 18 gauge factory wire. When you start throwing 200+ watts to each door speaker is when i'd run new wire. People scare you into running new wire all the times but literally i've done a lot of tests and there's literally zero difference between 18 gauge and 12 gauge wire with 150 watts or less power input you arent burning the wires up or anything of the sort either.
Click to expand...
Alright, so I have ordered the amp and all the wiring, etc. I just need to go pick the speakers up. When I wire them using the MRV-F300, my plan was to bridge the amp. My speakers are 4 ohm, and the amp runs 50 Watts x4 @4 ohms or 75 Watts x4 @ 2 ohms, and my amp bridges. If I am doing my math correctly, this means I can bridge the amp so it sees a 2 ohm load, and with 2 channels per speaker, they should receive 150 Watts per speaker, right?

 
That amplifier puts out 150 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms, but it’s only 4-ohm stable in bridged mode so don’t put it under a 2 ohm load bridged. In case I misread this, the speakers coil determines the static impedance the amplifier sees, not wether it’s bridged or not.

 
Alright, so I have ordered the amp and all the wiring, etc. I just need to go pick the speakers up. When I wire them using the MRV-F300, my plan was to bridge the amp. My speakers are 4 ohm, and the amp runs 50 Watts x4 @4 ohms or 75 Watts x4 @ 2 ohms, and my amp bridges. If I am doing my math correctly, this means I can bridge the amp so it sees a 2 ohm load, and with 2 channels per speaker, they should receive 150 Watts per speaker, right?
Click to expand...
If you can return it, there's a better amp for less thats double the power of that alpine.... pioneer gm 8604. I thought you already had that alpine amp, if you plan on buying it new, there's way better options.

 
I just got that Pioneer D8604 and can vouch that it is awesome. It replaced an older F240 40 WPC Alpine amplifier; driving speakers that are only rated for 40 watts rms and the difference is noticeable. This difference is attributable to headroom/dynamic power, otherwise they sound the same.

 
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k.norberg97

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