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HARD hits/Punches not loud

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kgcolby

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Good MorEvenight Ladies and Gents,

I'm on a quest that I don't actually understand honestly. I had a friend with a 13W7 H.O box and i absolutely loved the HIT/feel/punch of the bass. Almost as if I was getting kicked in the back. The best part about it? it wasn't even insanely loud at distances! So I ended up purchasing an FI Q12 running 900RMS on a T-Line that someone here designed for me years ago in hopes to re-create that sound. It was nice and clear sounding but I still craved that hard kick of a toddler kicking your back on an airplane.

Couple years later and a new car I'm in the search again to obtain this bass bliss of mine..

Is it possible to get that deep hard hits with other brands that don't cost 1k? I wish I knew a JL dealer so I wouldn't have to pay MSRP ha.

Click to read more...
 
Good MorEvenight Ladies and Gents,
I'm on a quest that I don't actually understand honestly. I had a friend with a 13W7 H.O box and i absolutely loved the HIT/feel/punch of the bass. Almost as if I was getting kicked in the back. The best part about it? it wasn't even insanely loud at distances! So I ended up purchasing an FI Q12 running 900RMS on a T-Line that someone here designed for me years ago in hopes to re-create that sound. It was nice and clear sounding but I still craved that hard kick of a toddler kicking your back on an airplane.

Couple years later and a new car I'm in the search again to obtain this bass bliss of mine..

Is it possible to get that deep hard hits with other brands that don't cost 1k? I wish I knew a JL dealer so I wouldn't have to pay MSRP ha.
Click to expand...
That hard kick is just from an output boost. T lines arent meant for high output, its a decent high bandwidth style loudness. Plus a 13 has more cone area than a 12 so literally you were not loud enough plain and simple.

You goal us to achieve a 145+db and you'll be happy

 
Well the 13" W7 has more cone area then the 12 FIQ and you didnt list what amplifier he has and what amplifier you have. Also a Tline is not meant for punchy base, if you want that then you need to build a smaller box with higher frequency. Anything 35hz+ @ 145db or more will feel like a kick in the chest.

 
Good MorEvenight Ladies and Gents,
I'm on a quest that I don't actually understand honestly. I had a friend with a 13W7 H.O box and i absolutely loved the HIT/feel/punch of the bass. Almost as if I was getting kicked in the back. The best part about it? it wasn't even insanely loud at distances! So I ended up purchasing an FI Q12 running 900RMS on a T-Line that someone here designed for me years ago in hopes to re-create that sound. It was nice and clear sounding but I still craved that hard kick of a toddler kicking your back on an airplane.

Couple years later and a new car I'm in the search again to obtain this bass bliss of mine..

Is it possible to get that deep hard hits with other brands that don't cost 1k? I wish I knew a JL dealer so I wouldn't have to pay MSRP ha.
Click to expand...

Vehicle is also very important. If you have a trunk/sedan type vehicle you've got an uphill battle, pickup truck hit or miss, hatch, coupe, SUV, minivan and you're golden... definitely don't need a 1000$ sub to get there.

 
Good MorEvenight Ladies and Gents,
I'm on a quest that I don't actually understand honestly. I had a friend with a 13W7 H.O box and i absolutely loved the HIT/feel/punch of the bass. Almost as if I was getting kicked in the back. The best part about it? it wasn't even insanely loud at distances! So I ended up purchasing an FI Q12 running 900RMS on a T-Line that someone here designed for me years ago in hopes to re-create that sound. It was nice and clear sounding but I still craved that hard kick of a toddler kicking your back on an airplane.

Couple years later and a new car I'm in the search again to obtain this bass bliss of mine..

Is it possible to get that deep hard hits with other brands that don't cost 1k? I wish I knew a JL dealer so I wouldn't have to pay MSRP ha.
Click to expand...
just told wife yesterday my $150 fu750 feels like grand kid kicking seat backs.. that q will do that in normal ported box tuned 35hz or so (if u mostly like rap tune 32hz) just may not sound as good.. u don't need another sub, just box and u may need more power for that sub though..

 
That hard kick is just from an output boost. T lines arent meant for high output, its a decent high bandwidth style loudness. Plus a 13 has more cone area than a 12 so literally you were not loud enough plain and simple.
You goal us to achieve a 145+db and you'll be happy
Click to expand...
I had no idea 1" really made that big of a difference....

Well the 13" W7 has more cone area then the 12 FIQ and you didnt list what amplifier he has and what amplifier you have. Also a Tline is not meant for punchy base, if you want that then you need to build a smaller box with higher frequency. Anything 35hz+ @ 145db or more will feel like a kick in the chest.
Click to expand...
OHH that makes much more sense then! Yeah I'm looking for punchy! So smaller tuned 35hz... Now I don't know if I'll be able to hit 145db that may be out of budget...

Vehicle is also very important. If you have a trunk/sedan type vehicle you've got an uphill battle, pickup truck hit or miss, hatch, coupe, SUV, minivan and you're golden... definitely don't need a 1000$ sub to get there.
Click to expand...
Scion XB so mini mini van lol

 
4 things that I personally have experienced that will give you that bass snap hitting your body. The type of bass you are playing - the sub box - A hard and or light weight cone - and a good amp. My tiny single 10 achieves the kick in the back with no problems albeit not as loud as a 12 or 13 inch speaker.

 
nope its literally how your box works with your sub's ts parameters and your overall vehicle cabin gain to produce the amount of output needed to get that kick. Its also easier to get that kick in the 35hz and up range. lightweight cone or not just determine's the sub's MMS and in conjunction with the spiders and soft parts would factor into the sub's FS which matters in a 1/4 transmission line enclosure depending on how low you want to play.

I had no idea 1" really made that big of a difference....


OHH that makes much more sense then! Yeah I'm looking for punchy! So smaller tuned 35hz... Now I don't know if I'll be able to hit 145db that may be out of budget...

Scion XB so mini mini van lol
Click to expand...
You should easily hit mid 140s with a pair of cheapo 12s(100-200$) sub up, port back in a properly designed ported on around 1.5k rms in a scion XB. You will have to reinforce the roof with some plywood along with deaden other panels with CLD tiles though. Those XBs are flimsy causing a lot of sound energy loss.

 
nope its literally how your box works with your sub's ts parameters and your overall vehicle cabin gain to produce the amount of output needed to get that kick. Its also easier to get that kick in the 35hz and up range. lightweight cone or not just determine's the sub's MMS and in conjunction with the spiders and soft parts would factor into the sub's FS which matters in a 1/4 transmission line enclosure depending on how low you want to play.


You should easily hit mid 140s with a pair of cheapo 12s(100-200$) sub up, port back in a properly designed ported on around 1.5k rms in a scion XB. You will have to reinforce the roof with some plywood along with deaden other panels with CLD tiles though. Those XBs are flimsy causing a lot of sound energy loss.
Click to expand...

It's funny you mentioned that... It actually has a broken weld on the roof in the back so I need to take the upholstry off and JB-Weld that back together.. I was going to do the whole lining when i dyno the interior.

 
It's funny you mentioned that... It actually has a broken weld on the roof in the back so I need to take the upholstry off and JB-Weld that back together.. I was going to do the whole lining when i dyno the interior.
Click to expand...
I just changed enclosure type to a 4th order and it certainly "kicks" I probably should have tuned a lil' lower... but I was looking for super strong output at 50hz with extension to the low 30's only. It's what you could call "boomy" but certainly "kicks", a silghtly lower tune would most likely smooth out the peakiness it's currently got. I feel a ported enclosure tuned to peak in-car around mid-30's to 40hz would be just what your looking for IMO. Add some power to the equation and it should get reasonably loud as well.

 
It's funny you mentioned that... It actually has a broken weld on the roof in the back so I need to take the upholstry off and JB-Weld that back together.. I was going to do the whole lining when i dyno the interior.
Click to expand...
for the roof i recommend no dyno, just pure 1/2 plywood and PL 375 or PL 3x. Dyno layers do absolutely nothing in comparison. You want that roof SOLID for real amounts of bass. You literally gain 1-2 db with wood vs almost no db gain to 0.5 db gain from quality deadener. Dont even bother with dynamat its a sh*t overpriced brand. Stinger expert road kill, SDS, second skin, knukonceptz are all far superior deadeners for the money there's a whole 1000 page thread with full testing over in DIYMA forums.

 
for the roof i recommend no dyno, just pure 1/2 plywood and PL 375 or PL 3x. Dyno layers do absolutely nothing in comparison. You want that roof SOLID for real amounts of bass. You literally gain 1-2 db with wood vs almost no db gain to 0.5 db gain from quality deadener. Dont even bother with dynamat its a sh*t overpriced brand. Stinger expert road kill, SDS, second skin, knukonceptz are all far superior deadeners for the money there's a whole 1000 page thread with full testing over in DIYMA forums.
Click to expand...
Don't think Plywood is on the table of options lol... It's a family car and I'm sure my wife will flip her ****! I'll look into those other brands of sound deadening.

 
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kgcolby

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