1st Tline design attempt

shredder2

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Just did my 1st Tline design... wow... look at the size difference for a set of 8's... that's a touch on the BIG side...


AumVML.jpg


Not too hard either... find Sd, 1/4 length of wave at Fs and size it. Then draw it up, woulda been easier if I had a set value for dimensions to start with but it wasn't too bad.

I used the Sd off Winisd at about 31in2 per... I'm hoping that's correct, as using the Sundown site measurement diagram (no Sd in specs just looking quickly) and including the surround I came up with 82.29in2. I drew that up (the 82in2) and it was REALLY big... lol.

Any tips, or comments appreciated...


Thank you in advance.

 
Are you looking to build it and try that enclosure out?Looks interesting for sure.Ive heard a pair of 6.5 Elemental Designs in a T-Line in a Toyota 4 runner on an older SStream 300 and it was quite impressive. The box was pretty big. lol, but man it sure was clean/great SQ.I may try one in the future myself

 
I'm just trying to learn the basics of designing a Tline... and it seems pretty basic to me. Took 1 hr on the 1st attempt to design it and draw it up. I might just pick up a Sa-12 (Qts is a lil' high for SQ but I like the coils on the SA's) to play with and I happen to have a RF 500S sitting here atm, I believe that much power should do pretty good as the efficiency of these Tlines are supposed to be something. Maybe hit the thing with BD 1000 power but IDK. Most people say a ton of power isn't necessary. So I'm on the fence about to get a dual 2 or 4 ohm if I wanna play around.

Another project... just what I need.

 
I'm just trying to learn the basics of designing a Tline... and it seems pretty basic to me. Took 1 hr on the 1st attempt to design it and draw it up. I might just pick up a Sa-12 (Qts is a lil' high for SQ but I like the coils on the SA's) to play with and I happen to have a RF 500S sitting here atm, I believe that much power should do pretty good as the efficiency of these Tlines are supposed to be something. Maybe hit the thing with BD 1000 power but IDK. Most people say a ton of power isn't necessary. So I'm on the fence about to get a dual 2 or 4 ohm if I wanna play around.
Another project... just what I need.
LOL @ another project!! Right, not a whole lot of power needed.Not sure if it is necessary. 300 watts on those 6.5s were pretty impressive for me.But what a box.lol. I have a pair of Dayton SVC 8 ohm 10s I may try out for H Audio in a T-line. Im sure it would be massive enclosure but what the hell? Worth trying something different for a change.Ill need to learn how to build enclosures much better and use the programs, with time permitted, and learning from my mistakes for sure.lol

 
LOL @ another project!! Right, not a whole lot of power needed.Not sure if it is necessary. 300 watts on those 6.5s were pretty impressive for me.But what a box.lol. I have a pair of Dayton SVC 8 ohm 10s I may try out for H Audio in a T-line. Im sure it would be massive enclosure but what the hell? Worth trying something different for a change.Ill need to learn how to build enclosures much better and use the programs, with time permitted, and learning from my mistakes for sure.lol
If you want ill try to do a design for ya... I'm lookimg to practice on another. I'll send it to ya' and you can critique it or improve it if you can.

Pm me if you'd like for me to try... I'm kinda short on time atm but I'll find time.

Another project... lol

For HO 10's correct? Wow LOW Fs... 107in2 of Sd and 126in of port... yep, that'll be a big one

 
from what I see its not hard until you start tapering to save space while maintaining the same output and sound quality. Along with doing horn style t lines which will take up more space but achieve more efficiency.

 
from what I see its not hard until you start tapering to save space while maintaining the same output and sound quality. Along with doing horn style t lines which will take up more space but achieve more efficiency.
Sounds way over my head to design at this point. Something to look at I suppose, but for now this has got me busy figuring it out... I'm sure there is an easy way and a hard way. So far its not TOO much trouble... but I see your point. Still learning, and plodding along doin' so ... wish there were forums when I got into this hobby back in the early 90's.

 
Sounds way over my head to design at this point. Something to look at I suppose, but for now this has got me busy figuring it out... I'm sure there is an easy way and a hard way. So far its not TOO much trouble... but I see your point. Still learning, and plodding along doin' so ... wish there were forums when I got into this hobby back in the early 90's.
there's a T line bassheads facebook group dedicated to T line enclosure design/theory and help that you should join.

 
I'm just trying to learn the basics of designing a Tline... and it seems pretty basic to me. Took 1 hr on the 1st attempt to design it and draw it up. I might just pick up a Sa-12 (Qts is a lil' high for SQ but I like the coils on the SA's) to play with and I happen to have a RF 500S sitting here atm, I believe that much power should do pretty good as the efficiency of these Tlines are supposed to be something. Maybe hit the thing with BD 1000 power but IDK. Most people say a ton of power isn't necessary. So I'm on the fence about to get a dual 2 or 4 ohm if I wanna play around.
Another project... just what I need.
They really aren't too bad even though they seem daunting at first. The one for my 12 takes up almost 6 cubic feet and it is a little smaller than it should be, but it is very musical and I can play almost anything. I'm running it at 1 ohm on a Pioneer 8601. While a ton of power isn't necessary, you won't be sorry if you go with the dual 2's. I have had a single 4 RF R1 and then a JL Audio 10W1 loaded into this box running on 300 watts and they were impressive, but there is no way I'd put them back in after running the PPI P.12D2 at 1 ohm and 900 watts.

 
Quick question... the Sd, should I use the value in Winisd or measure 1/2 surround to 1/2 surround?.. I'm reading online that it could be off a bit and still be ok but doing multiple drivers add up and if the difference between the two is off say... 15in2 per... then 2 drivers have a 30in2 difference. So I suppose my question is how close do I have to get the line area to Sd?.. and if it's off should I err on the high side or under? Also slightly choking the port throat even just a touch will control/ adjust excursion?.. add some (just a touch) of snappiness?.. and can that be used as one way to size the length if say... you need to lose 14" to hit Fs. 29.5hz is low but I'm thinking 33hz is plenty low with a Tline.

On this one I did a quick and dirty guesstimate on Sd, as Winisd said 67in2 per... and that sounded low to me so I used a lil' less than 1/2 the diameter going from the surround center to center. The size I've always heard has been 113in2 of cone per so I thought that Sd in Winisd was off for sure... was I on the right track?

BFcZOm.jpg


And realistically how strict is the " Qts of .40 and lower, and Qms of 7 and lower" rule if you're not lookin' for perfect SQ?.. also the tuning? as I go under FS a touch I'm sure it won't matter much but if I take a 49hz Fs driver and tune it to 30hz as long as the line is sized right-on or a touch under area will that be a bad thing?.. I'm looking for decent Sq of course but also those low-lows.

Sorry about the long winded post and multiple questions but I'm just lookin' to understand how small changes will affect the line BEFORE I build the thing.

Thank you in advance.

 
I call mine a happy accident and I went about it wrong. It was an experiment to try building a different kind of box. I will tell you that when I built mine it showed the line should be around 9 ft (I don't recall the exact) to get a tune of 30Hz. My line is 7 1/2 ft and it is tuned to 37Hz. Also my orignal plan was to put a 10 in there so the Sd was for a 10. I have a 12 in there and it doesn't hurt the performance, in my opinion. Based on what I am experiencing on mine, I'm not sure how hard and fast the rules are on Qts and Qms. I have had RF R1 in there (not sure of the specs) and a JL Audio 12w1v3 (Qms - 8.2, Qts - 0.502). The JL breaks both of those rules, but sounded great in there on 300 watts. The PPI P.12D2 (Qms5.46, Qts - .4) absolutley outperforms the others running at 4 ohm/300 watts. It is now running at 1 ohm/900. Hopefully that gives you something to work with.

 
I think I'll cheap out for the 1st build, relatively speaking. With the E it looks like it fits within those "optimum values" and I'm trying to get a setup that has an environment as close to perfect as possible. This should match up well with a RF 500S at 4ohm and it's a Sundown so maybe I can add power later... IDK... its tuned a little above Fs so any ideas how low it'll go realistically. I'm using the Winisd Sd or close to it... is that a mistake doing so?

bcVfkm.jpg


Maybe a yardsale E or "B" stock to keep costs down.

Anyone want a design?.. I have a few more... lol

yGPrMx.jpg


xOJ30h.jpg


EZ2KW1.jpg


YPKUN6.jpg


 
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