Subwoofer Recommendation/Sound Science

Number of subs preferred: 1 or 2

Size preferred (if configuration allows): 10" or 12"

Budget: Maximum $180 per subwoofer

Power to be used (which amp(s), include which resistance): will pick accompanying amp

Goals: SQ > loudness. More torwards accurate, tight bass. I don't like muddy subwoofers, good transient response.

Listening habits: Decent volume, but never to the point where my ears get fatigued or experience dizzyness.

Preferred brands/subs/whatever: whatever sounds good.

My friend has two pioneer 12" dual voice coil TS series (300W RMS), and while they sound awesome, they don't sound the most accurate, and don't have that much definition.

I'm also wondering, Vas, FS, QTS and xMAX, ratings are valueable numbers to know, what each one means, and what are ideal ranges.

 
box has a lot to do with how subs sound.. pioneer 3003 is much better.. if you want better sq and a sealed box u can get daytons for $149 or so at parts express.com.. remember if you want loud ported is the way to go but a good ported box will cost you, prefabs are not tuned low enough and will sound as u said muddy.. so add in $200 min for dual ported box unless u can build one..

 
Number of subs preferred: 1 or 2Size preferred (if configuration allows): 10" or 12"

Budget: Maximum $180 per subwoofer

Power to be used (which amp(s), include which resistance): will pick accompanying amp

Goals: SQ > loudness. More torwards accurate, tight bass. I don't like muddy subwoofers, good transient response.

Listening habits: Decent volume, but never to the point where my ears get fatigued or experience dizzyness.

Preferred brands/subs/whatever: whatever sounds good.

My friend has two pioneer 12" dual voice coil TS series (300W RMS), and while they sound awesome, they don't sound the most accurate, and don't have that much definition.

I'm also wondering, Vas, FS, QTS and xMAX, ratings are valueable numbers to know, what each one means, and what are ideal ranges.
Vas, fs, qts, xmax and the rest of the theile small parameters vary depending on the driver and its intended use. I suggest learning what they are and how they interact with each other. There is no simple explanation to your question. Buy the most recent copy of Vance Dickinsons Loudspeaker Cookbook. Beware its very heavy on theory with tiny graphs and basically reads like a term papwer or dissertation. I've read it twice and a lot of it still confuses me.

 
If it was me I'd look at the type S 10's or 12's and focus on having a correct enclosure built. They don't need a lot of power and sound good in a ported enclosure. Some folks like em in sealed but I'm about the way a ported box increases output where you want it to pound. Can you build an enclosure? Please don't pre-fab whatever you do. I wouldn't use a pre-fab unless it's sealed and then I'd use it for a last option. Doing the enclosure for the vehicle/subs/power and tune you want is super important... some people view it as just the box... lol... it's as important as the subs, you can buy a set of $500 subs and stuff em in an incorrect enclosure and that $1000 investment just sounds like a lot less... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/suicide.gif.a649d21efc0d1fd4890a6428166586c1.gif...

Anyways that's one option and they are not very expensive, don't require a ton of power and sound good.

Do the enclosure right and you'll be surprised at how accurate it sounds...

rC3PYh.jpg


Lots of other options out there for sure tho, but I like the Type S... 10's or 12's, whatever you got room for... which leads to the next question... what vehicle/space do you have available?

 
If it was me I'd look at the type S 10's or 12's and focus on having a correct enclosure built. They don't need a lot of power and sound good in a ported enclosure. Some folks like em in sealed but I'm about the way a ported box increases output where you want it to pound. Can you build an enclosure? Please don't pre-fab whatever you do. I wouldn't use a pre-fab unless it's sealed and then I'd use it for a last option. Doing the enclosure for the vehicle/subs/power and tune you want is super important... some people view it as just the box... lol... it's as important as the subs, you can buy a set of $500 subs and stuff em in an incorrect enclosure and that $1000 investment just sounds like a lot less... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/suicide.gif.a649d21efc0d1fd4890a6428166586c1.gif... Anyways that's one option and they are not very expensive, don't require a ton of power and sound good.

Do the enclosure right and you'll be surprised at how accurate it sounds...

rC3PYh.jpg


Lots of other options out there for sure tho, but I like the Type S... 10's or 12's, whatever you got room for... which leads to the next question... what vehicle/space do you have available?
Nissan Sentra SV 2015

 
Nissan Sentra SV 2015
Take a look at that enclosure above... think it'll fit and go in? That box would do well on a basic 750-1000 watt amp, most likely put those Pioneers you heard to shame. If you list max space for design help... make sure it'll go thru the opening.. lol

 
Okay, so I think I'm just gonna do a single since I'd like to save tunk space (and $$$). I don't think I could build my own enclosure. Tomorrow I can measure my trunk and update y'all.

I was looking on crutchfield:

Alpine SWS-10D4

Sound Ordnance™ Bass Bunker

Sealed single 10" subwoofer enclosure (Model BB10-64S)

JBL GTX500 Mono subwoofer amplifier — 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms

 
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