Sidebar

System Diagram Proof

Reply
  • 6
    Participant count
  • Participant list
Jump to latest
robert J

robert J

Member
53
0
canada
Hi all,

Haven't installed a stereo since my Alpine 3002 back in the '80s. Things have changed but I think I am up for the task. My new car sound system is terrible.

Here is my potential set up and I would appreciate a once over by some experienced builders so I can avoid problems and money.

2018 Kia forte sedan OEM head unite, 7" touch display, 10-20W / 6 channels (4x 6.5" in doors + tweets in dash)

Rear center arm rest down position opens up flow from the trunk SUB. seats also fold down.

Fosgate R250W mono block

Clarion 50W RMS x4 (high level inputs for front doors components 50W rms) Doors and dash tweets / rear doors Kicker coax.

Audio Control LC2i for Fosgate Mono block (12" sub) and rear (doors) channel of clarion (kicker 6.5" coax 100W rms). I am running the LC2i for the rear channels and high level inputs for the rears so I can retain fade control?

Alpine components front doors and dash tweets (front channels Clarion)

Kicker 100W RMS coax rear doors (rear channels Clarion)

single alpine 12" 100W RMS sub (Trunk) Fosgate. (not going with duo dubs in diagram cuz would have to buy new subs)

Is there a better way to set this stem up that is not substantially more money?

Thanks for your time and input.

Cheers, Rob.

2qm0t90.jpg


Click to read more...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Save up some money and get a digital sound processor instead of a sh*tty LC2i
Click to expand...

This seems like good advice.

Of course using some Y splitters from the LC2i will not hurt anything, but if you're not happy with the results that does seem to be the weakest link in your plan, plan around the thought that you may want to upgrade that down the road.

 
Thanks for the replies,

I am not planning to use the RCA splitters, that was just FMI.

The plan is to use the LC2i for the sub and rear channel of the main, while using the high level signal OEM inputs for the front channel so I can retain fade control. Is this incorrect?

 
Thanks for the replies,
I am not planning to use the RCA splitters, that was just FMI.

The plan is to use the LC2i for the sub and rear channel of the main, while using the high level signal OEM inputs for the front channel so I can retain fade control. Is this incorrect?
Click to expand...
problem is, every stock head unit has a built in EQ curve the manufacturers implement that you have no control over. This is because they use cheap speakers and need to compensate for how sh*tty they sound naturally with a flat signal. They also have a built in high pass filter that cuts all bass from existence past a certain frequency. All the LC2i does is boost that garbage signal.

While a proper Digital sound processor signal sum, and flatten the EQ along with restoring lost bass properly. The LC2i accubase is just a glorified 45hz bass boost, nothing else more. Not only that, you get 31 bands of EQ, full network mode crossovers, time alignment and literally complete control over the sound spectrum.

If you are really into SQ, I would never touch anything as horrible as an audiocontrol line out convertor on a stock head unit. thats more for cheap basshead teens on a budget.

Also might as well get a 5 channel amp, you'll get way more power than your clarion fosgate combo at a lower price.

AKA this amp thats tested do way more than rated power. Which you will need if you are used to two 12s and you are only doing a single 12 in your setup. More power for your door speakers will make things sound a lot cleaner as well.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_40253_NVX-JAD900.5.html

 
Jeff worded it better than I could, you should definitely invest in a DSP

throw in a $70 dso nano oscope to set your gains right and i think you're definitely doing better than most people starting out

 
problem is, every stock head unit has a built in EQ curve the manufacturers implement that you have no control over. This is because they use cheap speakers and need to compensate for how sh*tty they sound naturally with a flat signal. They also have a built in high pass filter that cuts all bass from existence past a certain frequency. All the LC2i does is boost that garbage signal.
Click to expand...
I did not know that, thank for the info. I will consider options.

I have not heard of NVX

 
With the NVX 5 Ch I could run 2ohm rear doors for more RMS power and still use my 4ohm components up front yes?

or does the amp need to have all four channels the same ohm resistance?

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Jeff worded it better than I could, you should definitely invest in a DSP
throw in a $70 dso nano oscope to set your gains right and i think you're definitely doing better than most people starting out
Click to expand...
Makes sense yes. Would an Lc6i do the trick or can you suggest a decent DSP for a decent price? Thanks.

 
Makes sense yes. Would an Lc6i do the trick or can you suggest a decent DSP for a decent price? Thanks.
Click to expand...
if you have a newer android/apple phone or tablet, the rockford DSR1 isn't bad just buggy

if you can afford a little more than $200, i would recommend the miniDSP 2x8 or 6x8. The 6x8 will let you retain fade if you have enough preouts from your headunit (factory headunit probably wouldnt work)

the DSR1 does offer factory integration that MIGHT work with your vehicle. look into it!

 
The NVX is the same cost as my intended fosgate and Clarion but with more options and power, making it a better option given comparative quality and longevity.

I just have to work out the signal processing which will blow my budget. I was hoping not to have to get into the dash but pick up input signal from speakers wires. Lots to consider.

Is an LC6i a good option or should I stay away from audio control products?

 
The NVX is the same cost as my intended fosgate and Clarion but with more options and power, making it a better option given comparative quality and longevity.
I just have to work out the signal processing which will blow my budget. I was hoping not to have to get into the dash but pick up input signal from speakers wires. Lots to consider.

Is an LC6i a good option or should I stay away from audio control products?
Click to expand...
Stay clear away from audiocontrol lc6i is the same garbage as the lc2i, they are all just line out convertors, not any kind of digital signal convertors. What you are looking for is a signal sum, de-equalization unit with 31 band eq, time alignment, crossovers etc.. All the lc6i, lc2i, lc7i do is boost the garbage head unit signal without fixing anything. The only audiocontrol product that would qualify is the DM-608

audison bit one/bit ten, helix dsp, arc audio ps8, hertz h8, alpine pxa 800, mini dsp, rockford dsr1 etc....

You'll save money on wiring with the nvx since its just 1 amp vs two.

This is a video on a proper amp dyno testing for true wattage.


 
Stay clear away from audiocontrol lc6i is the same garbage as the lc2i, The only audiocontrol product that would qualify is the DM-608
audison bit one/bit ten, helix dsp, arc audio ps8, hertz h8, alpine pxa 800, mini dsp, rockford dsr1 etc....
Click to expand...
Crystal Clear... Thank you for saving me some time and money

 
With the NVX 5 Ch I could run 2ohm rear doors for more RMS power and still use my 4ohm components up front yes?
or does the amp need to have all four channels the same ohm resistance?
Click to expand...
wouldn't get kicker anything (maybe amp) i'd put more power to sub/s than 250 fs nvx 5 channel is probably like the ppi phantom 5 channel so that would be better.. u can run diff ohm loads on the 4 channels but u want more power up front not in rear most of us don't even use rear speakers.. i'd get a 500-800rms mono amp (u can get gain lower) but if u want better sub/s later u would have more power ready., and a 100x2 channel for fronts run factory rears off hu (faded mostly to front)

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Previous topic Next topic

Similar threads

slvx3x_
Sound system problem
Sweet!! Im happy to hear that it was not a major issue.!! Very nice man. Thanks for letting us know what the culprit was!!
19
319
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
audiobaun
audiobaun
helot
no good at car audio so why not build a system
Well, I've owned probably over 100 different drivers in the last 40 years and almost every single speaker in the NVX line-up over the last 8...
16
424
Car Audio Build Logs
Doxquzme
Doxquzme
H
Looking for Feedback On Putting System In 2022 Infinity QX60
I'm most likely getting a 2022 Infinity QX60 next week. Like most new cars, it has the "Infotainment" system with the huge screen and all the...
0
229
General Car Audio
happy4ya
H
B
WOOFER PLACEMENT IN 3 WAY SYSTEM
that is an Ideal crossover and designed for use in an home type loudspeaker. A simple Linkwitz-riley 2-way is easy enough/ The tweeter wire lead...
36
1K
General Car Audio
Doxquzme
Doxquzme
V
1965 C10 System Design with Vintage Head Unit
There are bluetooth amplifiers. You can just use your phone or an I Pod as the music source and not touch the radio.
1
352
General Car Audio
1aespinoza
1

About this thread

robert J

robert J

Member
Thread starter
robert J
Joined
Location
canada
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
28
Views
2,493
Last reply date
Last reply from
robert J
Share thread
Screenshot 2024-04-06 200819.png

Doxquzme

    Apr 13, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
Screenshot_20240413-123854.png

1aespinoza

    Apr 13, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top
Menu
Home
Refresh