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Sundown U 15 facing up or forward?

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I am not happy with my x10 and I am going to try a Sundown U-15 D2.

 

Currently my rear seats have been removed and the x10 is facing down with port towards driver. I've heard on multiple occasions that facing my sub down and port forward is not the best way to setup.

 

I want a better kick and reading threads, 12"s and above give the best sound for subs.

 

I plan to have the box custom built as I did with the x10.

 

Soo...

port and sub facing ceiling?

Port and sub facing forward?

 

Install will go into a Nissan Frontier Crew Cab

XS D3400, 270 HO alt, Duracell G31, FSD 2600 and X10 (soon to be replaced).

 

I don't have enough friends with my interest of subs so I am limited to hear different setups/sub brands.

 

Tyvm

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What don't you like about the x10? What are the box specs-

volume, port size and tuning?


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What don't you like about the x10? What are the box specs-

volume, port size and tuning?

 

I'll look for specs. I believe 1.5cu @32hz

I love the lows it gives but some songs can't keep up with the faster beats. It does what it's designed to do, I just want a little more punch in beat.

 

 

Get a proper box for the x10 before switching if U ask me

 

I believe I did purchase a proper box. I've seen a lot of nice builds on FB from the builder Acoustical Design Inc.

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I'll look for specs. I believe 1.5cu @32hz

I love the lows it gives but some songs can't keep up with the faster beats. It does what it's designed to do, I just want a little more punch in beat.

 

 

 

 

I believe I did purchase a proper box. I've seen a lot of nice builds on FB from the builder Acoustical Design Inc.

 

that kick/punch is 50hz to 70hz response. Good luck getting any of that out of the X-10 if you have the megaroll surround version. Even with a different box, megarolls have sh*t upper end bandwidth.

 

Most of the sundown nuthuggers will say "NO thats the range your door speakers need to cover!" i'll be like "motha ***** do you know how much cone area and power is needed to get midbass to keep up with 155+ db???"

 

While its 1000x easier just to have a sub that can play that range and roll off to 80hz cleanly. Rather than a sub that drops dead in the water after 50hz.

 

Unless you are going for pure lows, always choose the standard surround option over the megaroll surrounds when buying sundown subs.


09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS......Mids/Highs two pioneer gm 8604 bridged, one at 4 ohms bridged one at 2 ohms bridged, one ppi 600.2 for tweets.

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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I am not happy with my x10 and I am going to try a Sundown U-15 D2.

 

Currently my rear seats have been removed and the x10 is facing down with port towards driver. I've heard on multiple occasions that facing my sub down and port forward is not the best way to setup.

 

I want a better kick and reading threads, 12"s and above give the best sound for subs.

 

I plan to have the box custom built as I did with the x10.

 

Soo...

port and sub facing ceiling?

Port and sub facing forward?

 

Install will go into a Nissan Frontier Crew Cab

XS D3400, 270 HO alt, Duracell G31, FSD 2600 and X10 (soon to be replaced).

 

I don't have enough friends with my interest of subs so I am limited to hear different setups/sub brands.

 

Tyvm

 

Sub facing down port towards driver is a much less than optimal loading configuration.

 

for trucks if the box is big and very close to the roof of the truck, sub up, port up. If its not close to the roof then sub forward port to the passenger side.

 

If you get a 15, MAKE SURE you have the proper space to fully build a proper box for the sub. Hell, if you got rid of your seats, you should have a fk ton of room in that crew cab, do two SA 15s or 18s instead and say fk it, lets do it big... ONLY IF YOU HAVE the space, dont cram sh*t if it doesn't fit.

 

BTW, you got your box from John the butcher? LOL. The his boxes performs but a lot of his work is shoddy in other installs.


09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS......Mids/Highs two pioneer gm 8604 bridged, one at 4 ohms bridged one at 2 ohms bridged, one ppi 600.2 for tweets.

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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[quote name='Jeffdachef']that kick/punch is 50hz to 70hz response. Good luck getting any of that out of the X-10 if you have the megaroll surround version. Even with a different box, megarolls have sh*t upper end bandwidth.

Most of the sundown nuthuggers will say "NO thats the range your door speakers need to cover!" i'll be like "motha ***** do you know how much cone area and power is needed to get midbass to keep up with 155+ db???"

While its 1000x easier just to have a sub that can play that range and roll off to 80hz cleanly. Rather than a sub that drops dead in the water after 50hz.

Unless you are going for pure lows, always choose the standard surround option over the megaroll surrounds when buying sundown subs.[/QUOTE]

As a noob, I've now learned to stick with the normal design. I considered 4 sa8 v3's but reading on 8's, they tend to be more loud with minimal lows. Hence the idea of one 15" U series for a more balanced sound.


[quote name='Jeffdachef']Sub facing down port towards driver is a much less than optimal loading configuration.

for trucks if the box is big and very close to the roof of the truck, sub up, port up. If its not close to the roof then sub forward port to the passenger side.

If you get a 15, MAKE SURE you have the proper space to fully build a proper box for the sub. Hell, if you got rid of your seats, you should have a fk ton of room in that crew cab, do two SA 15s or 18s instead and say fk it, lets do it big... ONLY IF YOU HAVE the space, dont cram sh*t if it doesn't fit.

BTW, you got your box from John the butcher? LOL. The his boxes performs but a lot of his work is shoddy in other installs.[/QUOTE]

I actually thought of a pair of 15's but then that 1K will quickly turn into 2k for a bigger HO alt, amp and battery(s).
I'm trying to capitalize on a sub(s) with the car power I'm working with (270 mechman, FSD amp and 2 batteries).

I asked for sub down because I was trying to gut the rear seats and place the seating on top of the box in case the kids needed a ride. That did not work so now I have as much space as the door width allows.
As for BoxBuilder, I was trying to wait for Cstang but I got impatient as he was working mad hrs for a good length of time.

@THATpurpleKUSH looking back, all I see is 155cu @32hz.

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[quote name='West1']As a noob, I've now learned to stick with the normal design. I considered 4 sa8 v3's but reading on 8's, they tend to be more loud with minimal lows. Hence the idea of one 15" U series for a more balanced sound.




I actually thought of a pair of 15's but then that 1K will quickly turn into 2k for a bigger HO alt, amp and battery(s).
I'm trying to capitalize on a sub(s) with the car power I'm working with (270 mechman, FSD amp and 2 batteries).

I asked for sub down because I was trying to gut the rear seats and place the seating on top of the box in case the kids needed a ride. That did not work so now I have as much space as the door width allows.
As for BoxBuilder, I was trying to wait for Cstang but I got impatient as he was working mad hrs for a good length of time.

@THATpurpleKUSH looking back, all I see is 155cu @32hz.[/QUOTE]

No, you dont see the efficiency of things. You have that FSD which is perfect for two SA 15s. You dont need a U 15. Two SA 15s will be louder than a U 15. You dont have to upgrade anything more. Two low powered 15s will be SIGNIFICANTLY louder than your single 10.

09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS......Mids/Highs two pioneer gm 8604 bridged, one at 4 ohms bridged one at 2 ohms bridged, one ppi 600.2 for tweets.

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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No, you dont see the efficiency of things. You have that FSD which is perfect for two SA 15s. You dont need a U 15. Two SA 15s will be louder than a U 15. You dont have to upgrade anything more. Two low powered 15s will be SIGNIFICANTLY louder than your single 10.

 

Not sure I could fit a 6-7cu box through a door. I have the space but getting that in seems impossible.

 

My rear seat floor is weird because of the spare tire and drive axel. I think 4cu would be biggest I can go while still able to use my rear view mirror and door space.

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friend has big truck with fu 1250 15 sub forward port up and it has bad cabin cancellation (a 10 in right box would be louder at least in his case) did same with 2-12" subs and port front.. like jeff said i'd say try port side and yeah the x is made for lows, i let my sub play up to 100hz.. so maybe side ported box with diff sub even 1 15 as long as box is big enough.. be great if u had friend with side port box let u try it in your truck


KENWOOD X301 HU, PRECISION POWER Phantom 1000, FU 750 12, 2.1cfad ported, soundqubed 6.5" coax/doors, hp & lp xover on hu, AGM starting batt...

Boomin_tahoe said:
2 ohms rule

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friend has big truck with fu 1250 15 sub forward port up and it has bad cabin cancellation (a 10 in right box would be louder at least in his case) did same with 2-12" subs and port front.. like jeff said i'd say try port side and yeah the x is made for lows, i let my sub play up to 100hz.. so maybe side ported box with diff sub even 1 15 as long as box is big enough.. be great if u had friend with side port box let u try it in your truck

 

I had a SD2 with side port prior to the X10. This might be a poor comparison but I did not hear a difference between side and fwd port. With that said, I posted to get feedback so I can get this **** done with one try haha.

 

 

Hmmm... looking at SA site, the Zv3 12's are 2cu and the U series are to mimic Zv3 specs. I might try a pair of Zv3's or U series, then upgrade amp in a few months.

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[quote name='West1']As a noob, I've now learned to stick with the normal design. I considered 4 sa8 v3's but reading on 8's, they tend to be more loud with minimal lows. Hence the idea of one 15" U series for a more balanced sound.




I actually thought of a pair of 15's but then that 1K will quickly turn into 2k for a bigger HO alt, amp and battery(s).
I'm trying to capitalize on a sub(s) with the car power I'm working with (270 mechman, FSD amp and 2 batteries).

I asked for sub down because I was trying to gut the rear seats and place the seating on top of the box in case the kids needed a ride. That did not work so now I have as much space as the door width allows.
As for BoxBuilder, I was trying to wait for Cstang but I got impatient as he was working mad hrs for a good length of time.

@THATpurpleKUSH looking back, all I see is 155cu @32hz.[/QUOTE]

1.5cf at 32hz is what sundown recommends. What Jeff said about the surround limiting the upper freq range is true, the overall bias of the x series is a strong low end which you might not be able to overcome. Using a smaller airspace might help with transient response, you could start with adding some damping material (1inch fiberglass insulation or polyfill) to the inside walls of the box or even add some temporary 2x4s to shrink the internal volume, though it will raise tuning slightly. Thats the easiest way to experiment without building a whole new box.

giphy.gif

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1.5cf at 32hz is what sundown recommends. What Jeff said about the surround limiting the upper freq range is true, the overall bias of the x series is a strong low end which you might not be able to overcome. Using a smaller airspace might help with transient response, you could start with adding some damping material (1inch fiberglass insulation or polyfill) to the inside walls of the box or even add some temporary 2x4s to shrink the internal volume, though it will raise tuning slightly. Thats the easiest way to experiment without building a whole new box.

 

I'll pass on that. I originally specified the U series because they are on sale @pre order prices. I might go with a pair of u 12 D4's.

 

One thing I don't understand is port sizes. When I received my X10 box, I assumed I would have a 2x12 port (random number for visual idea) and instead I had a 2x2. I asked around and was told the port sounds about right for the box, tune blah blah.

 

Are the large ports just visual or does it actually benefit the listener?

Is there a preferred port type for low and loud?

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2 inch by 2 inch? So a 4 square inch port?

 

Yes. Not 100% sure on port dimensions. I can measure later

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I'll pass on that. I originally specified the U series because they are on sale @pre order prices. I might go with a pair of u 12 D4's.

 

One thing I don't understand is port sizes. When I received my X10 box, I assumed I would have a 2x12 port (random number for visual idea) and instead I had a 2x2. I asked around and was told the port sounds about right for the box, tune blah blah.

 

Are the large ports just visual or does it actually benefit the listener?

Is there a preferred port type for low and loud?

 

You're kidding right?.. a 2x2 port for an X-10?

 

8D3oGj6.jpg

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I'll take a pic and measure. CR@P, just realized the site says 2x24 for port. Even though its a small @ss port, if it was tuned correctly, would it sound the same as a tuned box with a 2x24 port?

 

I know its hard to search things, at least for myself. If the search engine worked properly on this forum, it would cut away at questions I have or answered needed. To search on Google, you must write a paragraph to narrow down an answer.

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I'll pass on that. I originally specified the U series because they are on sale @pre order prices. I might go with a pair of u 12 D4's.

 

One thing I don't understand is port sizes. When I received my X10 box, I assumed I would have a 2x12 port (random number for visual idea) and instead I had a 2x2. I asked around and was told the port sounds about right for the box, tune blah blah.

 

Are the large ports just visual or does it actually benefit the listener?

Is there a preferred port type for low and loud?

 

You mean a 2inch by 2 inch square port? If that's the case that is entirely wrong and the box should be rebuilt. You should have 7-11 square inches of port area per cubic foot of volume for a round port, or 16-18 square inches per cubic foot if it's a slot port.

 

 

Edit: sundown recommends 24sq inches not 2x24. 24sq in / 1.5cf = 16 sq inches per cubic foot.


giphy.gif

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Just ran outside to measure real fast, its 3"x4" (the 2x2 was a guess, my fault).

[ATTACH]26557279[/ATTACH]

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Just ran outside to measure real fast, its 3"x4" (the 2x2 was a guess, my fault).

[ATTACH]26557279[/ATTACH]

 

There's your problem then. That box needs to be redesigned..... by someone who knows what they are doing. Who knows what its actually tuned to or what the volume actually is if they couldn't even get the port right.


giphy.gif

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Just ran outside to measure real fast, its 3"x4" (the 2x2 was a guess, my fault).

[ATTACH]26557279[/ATTACH]

 

Waaaaay too little port area. You must have a lot less room than originally expected it he has to do such a small port to tune that low. Your rear air velocity nunbers are way past compression levels. X10s are high displacement subs hence they need a bit more port


09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS......Mids/Highs two pioneer gm 8604 bridged, one at 4 ohms bridged one at 2 ohms bridged, one ppi 600.2 for tweets.

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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Something like this... it's 17.29 per and 1.57ft3 net... that's a correct box/port for an X-10.

 

cDXybF.jpg

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There's your problem then. That box needs to be redesigned..... by someone who knows what they are doing. Who knows what its actually tuned to or what the volume actually is if they couldn't even get the port right.

 

 

Wow lol.

 

Something like this... it's 17.29 per and 1.57ft3 net... that's a correct box/port for an X-10.

 

cDXybF.jpg

 

Sorry, I don't understand this.

The numbers you gave me are a correct box port or the port I have is correct or close too?

 

edit (just realized picture did not show so its a reference towards port for x10)

 

Waaaaay too little port area. You must have a lot less room than originally expected it he has to do such a small port to tune that low. Your rear air velocity nunbers are way past compression levels. X10s are high displacement subs hence they need a bit more port

 

Doubt that is the issue, box is like 48-52" long. I had plenty of space when giving dimensions to builder.

 

 

 

Well I guess it's time to find another SoCal box builder.

I am really considering a pair of U-12" right now that they are under 400 a piece. Then upgrade to a Scv 3k (or similar too).

 

you've all been very helpful! I appreciate it.

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Basically dude... your box is an abomination that chokes all output. That X can't breathe... lol

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