Benefits of bigger magnet subs?

Hellu

It seems logical that bigger and more beefy subs with a higher price tag should be better/louder but i have never quite understood why?

this is what i have heard:

Bigger motor = more control

Longer motor = more travel

Stiffer susp = take more beating?

bigger coil = higher temp tolarence/watt tolarence

Are there any other things that im missing? does bigger motor/magnets do more then just have more control for example?

(getting new subs that are drastically bigger in all aspects:santa:)

super curious if there is more to this than just ^above^ and what im supposed to expect

 
I remember when audiobahn first came out everyone was buying them bc they were the big (at that time) magnets and big surrounds that were actually affordable...couldn’t afford hccas when I was 16. Sorry this doesn’t answer your question just a trip down memory lane

 
Bigger doesnt mean better at all.

A tight gap in a smaller motor may very well show higher motor force than a loose gap in a larger motor.

Also the pole itself. Same size motor; one pole solid, one vented. All these little things matter.

Heck, even RE of the coil itself

 
Bigger doesnt mean better at all.
A tight gap in a smaller motor may very well show higher motor force than a loose gap in a larger motor.

Also the pole itself. Same size motor; one pole solid, one vented. All these little things matter.

Heck, even RE of the coil itself
I was hoping that you would be a knowledgeable one that would chime in.

 
Im not too knowledgeable tbh. But ive used enough subs to know motor size isnt end all, be all.

I just tested a pair of subs this week. Loudest ferrite ive ever tested, and louder than all but 1 neo ive tested. Its only about a 50lb sub, which isnt huge by todays standards.

Motor geometry plays a huge role also. A wider slug is generally more favorable than a taller slug. Give a wide slug a nice bumped backplate, and boom, you have a great motor (think Fi UFO). Id take that motor over several "larger" and "heavier" motors

 
Exactly ^^

It's sad but we are seeing a lot of cheaper alternative subs come out.. but heavy as hell.

Think of it like batteries. Real heavy and large batteries are typically used in storage applications, not high current.

Something "looks" loud but is also cheaply priced.. have to cut corners to get price low.

And let's face it, moving into the future, we will need lighter equipment.

Lithium batteries, more effectively designed speakers, reducing weight, etc..

Our premium subwoofer line, for example weighs a hair over 50lbs and is 3000wrms.

Most internet based audio companies' 3000w line are in the 60s-80lb range and i seen a 2000wrms driver weighing in at 102lbs the other day..

It's ridiculous.

 
Exactly ^^
It's sad but we are seeing a lot of cheaper alternative subs come out.. but heavy as hell.

Think of it like batteries. Real heavy and large batteries are typically used in storage applications, not high current.

Something "looks" loud but is also cheaply priced.. have to cut corners to get price low.

And let's face it, moving into the future, we will need lighter equipment.

Lithium batteries, more effectively designed speakers, reducing weight, etc..

Our premium subwoofer line, for example weighs a hair over 50lbs and is 3000wrms.

Most internet based audio companies' 3000w line are in the 60s-80lb range and i seen a 2000wrms driver weighing in at 102lbs the other day..

It's ridiculous.
Yeah weight is becoming a problem in my trunk.. two 23kg batteries each and a 30-40kg box that (soon) will carry two hdc4 12s, hope i dont notice the range reducing much when the almost 30kg each sub come (nissan leaf) would be nice not having to carry a "fake family" around all the time haha

 
Im not too knowledgeable tbh. But ive used enough subs to know motor size isnt end all, be all.
I just tested a pair of subs this week. Loudest ferrite ive ever tested, and louder than all but 1 neo ive tested. Its only about a 50lb sub, which isnt huge by todays standards.

Motor geometry plays a huge role also. A wider slug is generally more favorable than a taller slug. Give a wide slug a nice bumped backplate, and boom, you have a great motor (think Fi UFO). Id take that motor over several "larger" and "heavier" motors

Going from two 15" CV home audio subs to hdc4 12s

Should be louder despite going down from a 15 to 12 but bigger/wider motor right? Hah

 
Hellu
It seems logical that bigger and more beefy subs with a higher price tag should be better/louder but i have never quite understood why?

this is what i have heard:

Bigger motor = more control

Longer motor = more travel

Stiffer susp = take more beating?

bigger coil = higher temp tolarence/watt tolarence

Are there any other things that im missing? does bigger motor/magnets do more then just have more control for example?

(getting new subs that are drastically bigger in all aspects:santa:)

super curious if there is more to this than just ^above^ and what im supposed to expect
Of course most of these "more power handling" things all = less efficient. Stiff suspensions, bigger coils, heavier cones, big donut surrounds.

A wider slug is generally more favorable than a taller slug.
This is also true in Ferrite motors, though beyond 10" you hit a point of very diminishing returns so that's where they've pretty much capped out.

Low grade ferrite weights more then high grade ferrite.
That can't be much of a difference when you're dealing with such large pieces. What a pound difference in a 60 pound woofer?

Anyway, the topic of grades of magnet (and steel) is also very important. There's a reason cheap stuff is cheap and cheap materials is a great place to cut corners and cost while the consumer is left completely in the dark. We can't see the difference in grades of magnet and steel but they make a huge difference in performance. This is also a worry dealing with those Chinese buildhouses (who know this) and may well send you a great prototype then change materials in your production run leaving you with something that looks the same but performs poorly.

As it has been said, the distance of the gap is way more important than the size of the magnets. Magnetic force is an inverse square to the distance so halving the gap width squares magnetic force in there. The tradeoff is that most buyers want a huge power rating and a tight gap with a light coil isn't how you get that. Really 99% of the market would rather brag about them (or usually a guy they know) "throwing double rated power all day" at a sub than be able to get just as loud with a quarter of that power.

Safe to say the companies who are actually doing R&D take many factors into consideration and the big guys or those who build in-house can (at least mostly) control the quality of materials stays true. Others just take whatever China gives them and roll the dice. The buyers see a big heavy sub with some inflated power rating number on it and it makes some noise so they're happy. I wonder if all those "brands" selling the Alibaba DD-Z knockoffs can be assured that those motors are made with the same specs, tolerances, and materials as DD uses?

 
Good info in here. Thanks for the additions.

This is a good topic, and one we should keep going. Im starting to hear alot or people, especially newer people, describe their sub to me by weight. Granted, some of these huge subs are monsters, but some...are not.

 
Good info in here. Thanks for the additions.
This is a good topic, and one we should keep going. Im starting to hear alot or people, especially newer people, describe their sub to me by weight. Granted, some of these huge subs are monsters, but some...are not.
Yeah, sure bigger is often better but better made with better materials might be just as important

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

I have mused doing that, but I like keeping my jalopies looking OEM. Now if I knew how to fiberglass like NSTALN, I would have done it long ago.
22
1K
Back in the day there was some that went directly into the dash and then came out when powered on. Some of those were bigger then the size you are...
6
613
Damn.. thank you man... I wasn't expecting you to do all the work for me but I'll definitely take it lol. Thank you so much and also thank you...
5
1K
I sincerely appreciate the advice. I've made some changes to the design of my box and it's coming out to +8.99% larger than spec. I'll still be...
7
2K
Id seal the bolt hole up with Silicone and maybe look into placing some Poly Fill inside the Plastic enclosure and mount the new sub and run it...
2
980

About this thread

Thread starter
Bazzheadnorway
Joined
Location
Norway, Oslo
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
12
Views
4,327
Last reply date
Last reply from
kr15
1000006564.jpg

Mr FaceCaser

    Mar 28, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
1000006569.jpg

Mr FaceCaser

    Mar 28, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top