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Need suggestions on possible system

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Hello all

 

Went to my local shop and they recommended all JL Audio for my build. He suggested C5 coaxials in all doors, two amps, one TW3 and JL FIX. I want to be able to have time alignment and flat response eq done. Do i need the JL TWK as well?

 

What's your take on using coaxs in the front as opposed to components? Would components give you that much of a better sound stage? If we use components, do they have to be bi amped? Do I have to use a six channel amp to power twitters and woofers in the front, and the coaxs in the back? Then a separate amp for subwoofer.

 

Or can a 4 channel amp be used for the components and coaxs? Not sure if time alignment can be done properly that way.

 

Your thoughts will be greatly appreciated.

 

-thanks

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Year and model of your car?

What is your goal?

What is your budget?

 

Can you do the install or have to use a shop?

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I am assuming you are doing oem integration using the stock head unit? What is the total price they are charging you for all of the above parts? If you don't want to do the research and find your own parts and take them to the audio shop then I can see if you want to get everything through them. You can probably save some money if you buy the audio equipment yourself and or look into other brands. I am sure it will sound good, but are there other options yes. Some shops don't like it if you don't get the equipment through them, but its something I would look into before pulling the trigger.


refs on here: bought from PioneerSPL1990, amartin_72, fasfocus00, Kowboy | Sold to evildave101, Louisiana_CRX, KAC1023, Zachfeen, ds0110 | refs on caco: 72impala, super_duper, KAC1023, tandrel | refs on ebay: my username is chevy-guy87

 

XKF8hb

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Year and model of your car?

What is your goal?

What is your budget?

 

Can you do the install or have to use a shop?

 

2012 MDX

Sound quality. Good sound stage.

Around $3k

I’d rather not do install myself.

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I am assuming you are doing oem integration using the stock head unit? What is the total price they are charging you for all of the above parts? If you don't want to do the research and find your own parts and take them to the audio shop then I can see if you want to get everything through them. You can probably save some money if you buy the audio equipment yourself and or look into other brands. I am sure it will sound good, but are there other options yes. Some shops don't like it if you don't get the equipment through them, but its something I would look into before pulling the trigger.

 

Yes oem integration. I think he said $2700 plus installation. I agree it will be less expensive if I buy the parts on my own. He did say that because they’re an authorized jl dealer, if they use jl cable kits the warranty would be three years. Do you think this out weighs the benefit of buying the parts on my own?

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Do you guys think C5 coaxs for the rear door is overkill? Would a pair of C1's be sufficient? Would that affect the sound stage?

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If you are going to upgrade the rears, don’t spend much. The c1 should be sufficient.

 

 

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if they use jl cable kits the warranty would be three years. Do you think this out weighs the benefit of buying the parts on my own?

 

Yes. JL makes fine quality equipment much of which is made in the USA. Be aware you're paying for JL's name, American manufacturing, plus a markup for the store. That said you're buying good quality, re-sale value, and supporting a business that will (or should) take care of you.

 

If you buy whatever else on Amazon and bring it to them, even if they will install (many shops won't) what happens if something fails? Will the remove and replace it? If they don't know the brand or didn't sell it, possibly not.... I wouldn't.

 

Don't let the DIY purists scare you away or tell you about "savings". There is value in going to a professional shop and buying from brick and mortar store... assuming it's a good and reputable shop.

 

I would suggest you forget about the back doors and just go for some higher end components up front and if you want time alignment and EQ flexibility best IMO is to buy a solid head unit with that built in. I can't vouch for outboard processing since I haven't personally seen any in person in ages (everyone who wants snobophile sound uses Pioneer DEX-P90RS or similar these days).

 

I don't know where this guy is in NY but you may reach out to him as well. This work looks spectacular.:

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/635333-2006-lexus-rx330-build-log-first-build-new-location.html

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Yes. JL makes fine quality equipment much of which is made in the USA. Be aware you're paying for JL's name, American manufacturing, plus a markup for the store. That said you're buying good quality, re-sale value, and supporting a business that will (or should) take care of you.

 

If you buy whatever else on Amazon and bring it to them, even if they will install (many shops won't) what happens if something fails? Will the remove and replace it? If they don't know the brand or didn't sell it, possibly not.... I wouldn't.

 

Don't let the DIY purists scare you away or tell you about "savings". There is value in going to a professional shop and buying from brick and mortar store... assuming it's a good and reputable shop.

 

I would suggest you forget about the back doors and just go for some higher end components up front and if you want time alignment and EQ flexibility best IMO is to buy a solid head unit with that built in. I can't vouch for outboard processing since I haven't personally seen any in person in ages (everyone who wants snobophile sound uses Pioneer DEX-P90RS or similar these days).

 

I don't know where this guy is in NY but you may reach out to him as well. This work looks spectacular.:

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/635333-2006-lexus-rx330-build-log-first-build-new-location.html

 

excellent, thanks. I did have an 80-PRS in my previous car but in my current car (2012 MDX) custom work would be required (if it's even possible) to fit an aftermarket receiver.

 

So, you're saying forget about the back doors completely, no speakers and/or amplified signal?

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Stock speakers are fine for the back doors. Off deck power. Rear is just for fill any way the 99 prs is a great deck. But with a $1000 tag on it critchfield did have them Also better components in the front doors and don’t forget the deadener If replacing the hu isn’t an option the yes a dsp is the way to go


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Do you guys think C5 coaxs for the rear door is overkill? Would a pair of C1's be sufficient? Would that affect the sound stage?

most of us don't use rear speakers but if u do use cheap ones there better in front maybe even with more power to fronts.. yeah i bet dealer does what u to pay 43k for jl stuff when u can get as good or better for $1500.. jl over priced man it's like a woman loving $5,000 prada purse $11 one at walmart actually holds more lol.. we can show u tons of options besides jl and u can still get it installed at a shop..


KENWOOD X301 HU, PRECISION POWER Phantom 1000, FU 750 12, 2.1cfad ported, soundqubed 6.5" coax/doors, hp & lp xover on hu, AGM starting batt...

Boomin_tahoe said:
2 ohms rule

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most of us don't use rear speakers but if u do use cheap ones there better in front maybe even with more power to fronts.. yeah i bet dealer does what u to pay 43k for jl stuff when u can get as good or better for $1500.. jl over priced man it's like a woman loving $5,000 prada purse $11 one at walmart actually holds more lol.. we can show u tons of options besides jl and u can still get it installed at a shop..

 

All wrong, go back to staring at amps and guessing the 2 ohm rating.


giphy.gif

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Do you guys think C5 coaxs for the rear door is overkill? Would a pair of C1's be sufficient? Would that affect the sound stage?

 

dont spend anything on the rear. blow everything on the front stage leave the rear stock speakers on head unit power they do nothing other than kill your sound stage. I hope that shop plans on sealing off the door gaps turning the door into a proper enclosure with sheet metal along with deadening and making a proper baffle. It would be a complete waste of time if they skipped that crucial install part.


09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS......Mids/Highs two pioneer gm 8604 bridged, one at 4 ohms bridged one at 2 ohms bridged, one ppi 600.2 for tweets.

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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All wrong, go back to staring at amps and guessing the 2 ohm rating.

how is it all wrong? many of us don't use rear speakers.. and jl is very over priced (but i meant to say $3k worth of jl stuff $ came up as a 4) and many peeps run more power to fronts and rears off hu as someone else said too did u harass them?


KENWOOD X301 HU, PRECISION POWER Phantom 1000, FU 750 12, 2.1cfad ported, soundqubed 6.5" coax/doors, hp & lp xover on hu, AGM starting batt...

Boomin_tahoe said:
2 ohms rule

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excellent, thanks. I did have an 80-PRS in my previous car but in my current car (2012 MDX) custom work would be required (if it's even possible) to fit an aftermarket receiver.

 

So, you're saying forget about the back doors completely, no speakers and/or amplified signal?

 

I know there are some outboard processors that should have all the power you need but I just haven't seen any in action to say which does what or which is "best". I'd lose the rears altogether but keeping them gained low off the head unit may work as well. The conventional wisdom is you want to sound to sound like a concert where it comes from in front of you. Some have other preferences but IMO it's just more things to complicate getting good sound. Keep it simple. And the money you save in the back can go into better fronts (or proper deadening etc.) where it'll make much more of a difference.

 

most of us don't use rear speakers but if u do use cheap ones there better in front maybe even with more power to fronts.. yeah i bet dealer does what u to pay 43k for jl stuff when u can get as good or better for $1500.. jl over priced man it's like a woman loving $5,000 prada purse $11 one at walmart actually holds more lol.. we can show u tons of options besides jl and u can still get it installed at a shop..

 

How much JL equipment have you auditioned? I can assure you buying whatever low end junk you're trying to shill for this week isn't going to do the same thing, nor will he get the SERVICE that he is getting from a quality brick and mortar shop if he buys cheap. Not everybody is a deadbeat and honestly you get a lot of what you pay for with JL if you want good build quality and sound. 500/1 is the best selling amp of all time and one of the W series subs is the best selling sub going.... they're doing something right and consistently. You'll pay around the same getting the same from any premium brand. About the ONLY thing they're not good at is getting really loud, for that money is better spent elsewhere.

 

. and jl is very over priced

 

You just buy junk. I repeat, you are getting a lot of what you pay for buying JL. Not least they employ about 200 people here at their plant in Florida and everything they make in house is very high quality.

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how is it all wrong? many of us don't use rear speakers.. and jl is very over priced (but i meant to say $3k worth of jl stuff $ came up as a 4) and many peeps run more power to fronts and rears off hu as someone else said too did u harass them?

 

JL is expensive but it's engineered and made well. Some people see value in that. Not everyone is a cheap ass motherfucker like you. The way you talk you obviously haven't owned any JL equipment and if you did it was probably the low end stuff. Your purse analogy has more holes in it than a slice of swiss cheese.


giphy.gif

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Wait a sec...gramps getting dumped on again?

 

:popcorn:


97 4 dr. Tahoe

Interstate battery

Alpine 9835

Polk Audio MM6501 comps

Wolfram amps coming soon, 3000.1, 125.4

2 Sundown Audio X 15's Tuned @ 30Hz.

Knukonceptz/Royal Excelene wiring

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So based on gramps logic, Toyota is the same as Lexus.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I still think JL subs are some of the best sounding subs out there. I like them more than image dynamics, hertz, morel etc.. and they get a lot louder than those brands. Dayton HOs come pretty close to a w6 sound quality wise though.


09 Sienna Subs : Four Team Ascendant 18s......Sub amp: Two Taramps 15k

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS......Mids/Highs two pioneer gm 8604 bridged, one at 4 ohms bridged one at 2 ohms bridged, one ppi 600.2 for tweets.

Front stage: Two PWX 10s per door midbass only....... PRV 6MR500 midrange....... Massive CT 2 german tweeters.

320 amp Singer alt....... 1 group 34 under the hood 6 group31 agms in the back 560 amp hours total.

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