2006 Mazda Miata MX5 NC Grand Touring SQ

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So this is the start of my thirdish build, I finally fell like I know what im doing but more in a sense that I finally know enough to know how little I know. I'm still in the planning stages and figured I'd get some input before the build actually starts in a month or two.

What I've done so far. I have an alpine PDX-F4 that I plan on bridging 2 channel 200 watts rms to each door (left over from a previous build). And I ran a positive lead from the battery to the back of the car with plenty of slack rolled up to put my amps wherever I want. (All fused and tied down properly). I also have the metra dash kit and harness adapter.

Budget: I have $1600.00 in amazon balance so I plan to pay for most of the build on that, but if I need to spend cash I have plenty of that too, buy once cry once with this car, nothing cheap.

I'm thinking of using a Pioneer AVH-2300NEX for a head unit. The AXXESS ASWC-1 is the go to for the miata. Not sure what processor to run if any, heard good things about the alpine series, but I've never used a quality one, and I don't know if I need one, most head units im looking at have parametric 9-14 band eqs with time correction.

Speakers and Sub I don't have planned out at all yet. Factory setup is 8" woofers in the door with separate tweeters in the top of the doors, and some useless 3" speakers in the back. I've seen both 6.5" adapters and 8" woofers be used, I'm planning on using a 6.5" component set (be it Alpine type X or Hertz HKS or something else). Also not sure what I want to do sub wise. I could place a 8" in each of the rear glove boxes, or I could take up some of the small trunk space, We'll see. After much experimentation I found rear sound-stage useless if you have a sub, so I'm not wasting any money on rear speakers.

Any input is much appreciated.

 
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Due to life events the build is going to have to get pushed back a little more (won't have access to the car) but I did buy a good amount of the equipment.

Headunit Pioneer AVH-2300NEX

Components Alpine Type X 6.5

Amplifier Zapco ST-4D (Ran bridged for 320 watts rms per channel)

Sound Deading Noico 80mil and Fast rings

AXXESS ASWC-1 steering wheel control, 12 gauge speaker wire, Install gear shielded RCAs

So with that all figured out, the controls, and front stage should be excellent. However, I still need to decide what I want to do for a subwoofer.

I have three options: Fabricate a way to place two 8" woofers, one behind each seat in the factory storage cubbys, make a box to place a 10" in the trunk in the driver side rear facing the passenger side (not optimal, but it makes use of the space), or prebuilt powered subwoofers. There is a indent in the trunk that I could place one in, or I could put one in each of the cubbies in the cabin.

 
No prefab. Are you planning on doing electrical upgrades? That’ll help figure out sub stage? Budget?

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Besides big three I wasn't planning on doing electrical upgrades. Space seems like more of the limiting factor, I'm always proven wrong when I say something like this, but I think its going to be hard to out drive the stock electrical system or spend something that would make me uneasy with the space in a small roadster.

Fabrication is the other limiting factor, back when I had access to a shop making a custom box wasn't a problem, now I don't have access to the same amount of tools.

Edit: The stock alternator is a 100 amp unit this mounts differently than the normal units I've seen. The stock unit is a ACDELCO 3342699, BOSCH AL4239X, or equivalent.

518qSvlzN%2BL.jpg


Whereas aftermarket (and most other alternators I've seen have the bolt holes 90° rotated. Such as the "universal" upgrade Fitzall-220.

Fitzall-220-1.jpg


I don't know how I could get this to work, sure I could make my own custom adapter to run a upgraded gm alternator and run my own belt configuration, but thats over what I want to do. Anybody know how much more power I could get from sending in a core unit and having it rewound with an overdrive pulley?

 
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Do those cars have a ski pass through from the trunk to the cabin?
I'm not exactly sure how its setup as I haven't striped mine down yet. I do know that the top folds up infront of the trunk, and that there is a lot of wasted space between the trunk and the seats. I think the trunk is almost completely sealed from the cabin with a firewall though.. I found a few pics that might help spark some ideas.

N8.jpg


trunk-matted2.jpg


I wish I had dimensions of this indent. but I can't find any.

roomundersofttop.jpg


 
I would've done an 8 in the door...you'd be suprised how nice that is.
I debated that for a while, I wanted to go with CDT Audio 8", but I didn't think I had the mounting depth, focal had a pair of 8" componets (ISU 200) that fit, but I didn't think it was my best option. I then thought about illusion audio carbon c8, but I ended up going with the Alpines, if worse comes to worse, I can pick up the c8 drivers (or some bare 8" drivers) to replace the woofers in my component set.

 
Ah thats a bummer that the top wastes so much space and there is a firewall. I've been looking at 12-15 miatas with the hardtop but the lack of space for copious amounts of bass is a big turn off. Maybe look into bass shakers under the seats.

 
Ah thats a bummer that the top wastes so much space and there is a firewall. I've been looking at 12-15 miatas with the hardtop but the lack of space for copious amounts of bass is a big turn off. Maybe look into bass shakers under the seats.
Those photos are with the top down, the factory places glove boxes in a big plastic shroud in that space above the fuel pump access and the space besides it. It should be plenty of space for something modest. (Although I've heard the hardtops have less room) I've heard of people drilling a hole to run wires into the trunk, but its very debated how well it sounds to place a subwoofer back there.

Those bass shakers sound very gimicky. I prefer the idea of a low profile sub box combo, or a powered (or two) sub where the factory cubbies used to be, but not sure how much volume that will be. My last setup had 200 rms per door in the front and 1000 rms to a sealed dayton 12" in a suv, and it defiantly wasn't overpowering the speakers. I feel like 320rms per door would be to much for a measly say 250 rms you would get from one of those low profile subwoofers (of course sensitivity and surface area plays an important role).

Has anybody use a CDT Audio Minimax 400? My dad just upgraded from a blaupunkt to the minimax and keeps talking about how good it is, but his blaupunkt was pretty lack luster (150rms low profile 8").

 
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