Viper 5706V Remote Start - No Crank Issue

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keep_hope_alive
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Acoustics Engineer
I am sharing my recent experience with my Viper 5706V in my 2014 Honda Accord Sport (not PTS). I haven't seen much documentation on my issues.

The initial installation was in 2014. The installation has been reliable, all points were soldered.

When my car was stolen (and then returned damaged) in spring 2016 and i did a firmware update of the immobilizer bypass which also required a revision to bypass wiring points (the firmware update revised how wires were used).

In the last month the remote start stopped cranking the engine. Pit stop mode still works (pressing remote start key while engine was running and then removing the key). There are no errors when remote starting - the car turns on and behaves as normal, just no attempt to turn the engine over.

My local dealer suggested changing the tach mode from virtual tach to tach, and said they experience that with 2013-2014 models. I tried that and to no avail.

I then found a random thread in which the OP diagnosed the lack of crank signal to a transistor on the board.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/viper-5706v-remote-start-repair-no-votage-on-remote-start-wires.406143/

It appears the circuitry uses an NPN transistor to pull the relay coil to ground - this is a pretty standard way to isolate the relay coil from the rest of the circuit (something I do frequently in my circuits). This transistor can fail due to frequent use and relay coil current. Once it warms up enough (-15 deg F now) I will pull the brain and swap the transistor to verify.

For now, I have to start the car manually, then i can use pit stop mode to remove the keys and alarm the car and let it warm up.

 
Just an idea since it's been a while but

Is there a little key light on the dash when you try remote starting?

On some cars you only need the bypass module for starting the car

Once it's running you can take the key out

 
I've only ever used Prestige alarm/remote start. Always had good luck with them and they're priced right.

Anyway, mine have always given some sort of feedback if something isn't right (light flashing code) so for example if it isn't reading the tach right it'll flash a code so you know that's what's happening.

Sounds to me like a dead transistor is as likely a culprit as anything given all the information you posted.

 
what bypass do you have?

Some send the tach signal through a data line and then all you would need to do it reprogram for tach and not virtual tach

Although with no tach signal it will still crank the engine it just won't stop cranking until it times out.

I've seen it where those bypasses loose their program but usually one reprogram and the problem goes away

 
Are your interior lights still functional after your reboot. I'm new at this.
Yes, my interior lights were unaffected and work as before.

what bypass do you have?Some send the tach signal through a data line and then all you would need to do it reprogram for tach and not virtual tach

Although with no tach signal it will still crank the engine it just won't stop cranking until it times out.

I've seen it where those bypasses loose their program but usually one reprogram and the problem goes away
The bypass I have is the XpressKit DBALL2. It has D2D communication with the Viper (both DEI).

I've only ever used Prestige alarm/remote start. Always had good luck with them and they're priced right.
Anyway, mine have always given some sort of feedback if something isn't right (light flashing code) so for example if it isn't reading the tach right it'll flash a code so you know that's what's happening.

Sounds to me like a dead transistor is as likely a culprit as anything given all the information you posted.
Agreed, in the past it has given feedback when it didn't start, because it had an error preventing the signal.

Just an idea since it's been a while butIs there a little key light on the dash when you try remote starting?

On some cars you only need the bypass module for starting the car

Once it's running you can take the key out
Note this worked fine for 4 years. Either a program loss in the DBALL2 or a failure inside the unit is likely. I verified with my DMM that the unit wasn't outputting 12V on the crank wire. The lack of 12V output tells me either i have a loss of voltage into the unit or a failure to close the relay contact. I verified all fuses are fine and voltage is present (measured voltage on both sides of the fuse).

 
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keep_hope_alive

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