Is this a good setup?

raider89
10+ year member

Member
68
2
OH
I have a 2015 Lancer.

Stock speakers don't get loud at all, sound crappy and any bass just crackles and cant handle it.

Here's what I have come up with so far.

Infinity Kappa 60csx

6-1/2" component speaker system in front and rear doors.

Infinity KAPPAFOUR 125W x 4 Full Range Class D Amplifier

Kenwood DDX374BT

DVD receiver

Anything else I should consider or recommendations ?

Budget is $1000 for everything.

 
I have a 2015 Lancer.
Stock speakers don't get loud at all, sound crappy and any bass just crackles and cant handle it.

Here's what I have come up with so far.

Infinity Kappa 60csx

6-1/2" component speaker system in front and rear doors.

Infinity KAPPAFOUR 125W x 4 Full Range Class D Amplifier

Kenwood DDX374BT

DVD receiver

Anything else I should consider or recommendations ?

Budget is $1000 for everything.
If you dont plan on doing massive door treatments turning the doors into a proper speaker enclosure with proper custom baffle to redirect the sound wave into the car along with having a solution to absorb the rear wave, then I'd suggest you just swapping out the head unit and adding a subwoofer instead because unless you do a real legit install, aftermarkets will have way less bass and warmth in the vocals than stock speakers purely due to the install purposes Its not totally the stock speaker's fault, the stock head unit is the main culprit for overall sh*t sound since its only 3-5 watts a channel. Stock speakers on real power with a head unit to tune and process are a completely different beast.

I'd highly recommend you getting a subwoofer setup and letting your door speakers play mid/midbass frequencies rather than trying to force door speakers to play actual bass. This will already help your speakers get much louder because they arent forced to do something they arent good at and can focus on doing their jobs better once you implement a high pass filter.

 
Are you wanting any kind of a sub for the low end?
I am wanting to add a sub, if I have the extra funds I would just get this amp.

Pioneer GM-D9605

5-channel car amplifier — 75 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms

Then like a single 10 or 12 inch sub like a JL Audio 10W3v3-2

 
If you dont plan on doing massive door treatments turning the doors into a proper speaker enclosure with proper custom baffle to redirect the sound wave into the car along with having a solution to absorb the rear wave, then I'd suggest you just swapping out the head unit and adding a subwoofer instead because unless you do a real legit install, aftermarkets will have way less bass and warmth in the vocals than stock speakers purely due to the install purposes Its not totally the stock speaker's fault, the stock head unit is the main culprit for overall sh*t sound since its only 3-5 watts a channel. Stock speakers on real power with a head unit to tune and process are a completely different beast.
I'd highly recommend you getting a subwoofer setup and letting your door speakers play mid/midbass frequencies rather than trying to force door speakers to play actual bass. This will already help your speakers get much louder because they arent forced to do something they arent good at and can focus on doing their jobs better once you implement a high pass filter.
Im not really looking for bass from the door speakers, and I didnt plan on doing any sound dampening, so the factory speakers will sound better and be loud with a better head unit that has more power output versus the stock head unit when the speakers start distorting and sounding like garbage when turning up the volume.

 
I am wanting to add a sub, if I have the extra funds I would just get this amp.
Pioneer GM-D9605

5-channel car amplifier — 75 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms

Then like a single 10 or 12 inch sub like a JL Audio 10W3v3-2
that amp better fine.. speakers need hp xover that'll help more than anything as far as stopping distortion and let sub make the bass.. u can get better sub same or less $ than jl.. u can also just replace front speakers run rears on hu or not at all (most of us don't use them) use a 4 channel amp for the fronts and bridge 2 channels to a sub.. u can use $ u save on rear speakers + spend less on sub and spend more on amp get more power to sub.. Sundown Audio SAE-1100.5 5 channel amplifier - EMF Car Audio formerly Sundown Only

 
I have a 2015 Lancer.
Stock speakers don't get loud at all, sound crappy and any bass just crackles and cant handle it.

Here's what I have come up with so far.

Infinity Kappa 60csx

6-1/2" component speaker system in front and rear doors.

Infinity KAPPAFOUR 125W x 4 Full Range Class D Amplifier

Kenwood DDX374BT

DVD receiver

Anything else I should consider or recommendations ?

Budget is $1000 for everything.
Could always just get a Infinity Ref 704A and a 551A... Those two combined would probably cost less than the K4. The K4 is a good amp... Also I would just get the Comps for the front speakers and get Coaxs for the rears

 
If you dont plan on doing massive door treatments turning the doors into a proper speaker enclosure with proper custom baffle to redirect the sound wave into the car along with having a solution to absorb the rear wave, then I'd suggest you just swapping out the head unit and adding a subwoofer instead because unless you do a real legit install, aftermarkets will have way less bass and warmth in the vocals than stock speakers purely due to the install purposes Its not totally the stock speaker's fault, the stock head unit is the main culprit for overall sh*t sound since its only 3-5 watts a channel. Stock speakers on real power with a head unit to tune and process are a completely different beast.
I'd highly recommend you getting a subwoofer setup and letting your door speakers play mid/midbass frequencies rather than trying to force door speakers to play actual bass. This will already help your speakers get much louder because they arent forced to do something they arent good at and can focus on doing their jobs better once you implement a high pass filter.
It depends on the Stock Head Unit/ Audio systems... Not many are only 3-5 watts anymore. Shoot some of them have pretty good wattage behind them.

 
Im not really looking for bass from the door speakers, and I didnt plan on doing any sound dampening, so the factory speakers will sound better and be loud with a better head unit that has more power output versus the stock head unit when the speakers start distorting and sounding like garbage when turning up the volume.
Will it sound better? Yes... Will it sound good? No. I disagree with Jeff, a set of components with an amplifier the sound will be cleaner than non amplified regardless of sound deadening. Adding in Sound Deadening would be a smart move, but I dont think should be the determining factor ... but no your not going have a lot of bass. That's why I recommend going down slightly on the amp output for the 4 channel, and adding a subwoofer.

Infinity Ref704A and 551A = $200 shipped

Capable HU

Wiring $100 roughly

Subwoofer - $100-200

Enclosure

Comps = $120-180

Coaxs-

Total=

You can save money on the HU and enclosure as well....

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Will it sound better? Yes... Will it sound good? No. I disagree with Jeff, a set of component with an amplifier and the sound will be cleaner... but no your not going have a lot of bass. That's why I recommend going down slightly on the amp output for the 4 channel, and adding a subwoofer.
Infinity Ref704A and 551A = $200 shipped

Capable HU

Wiring $100 roughly

Subwoofer - $100-200

Enclosure

Comps = $120-180

Coaxs-

Total=

You can save money on the HU and enclosure as well....
Infinity Ref704A and 551A = 200

Infinity Reference REF-6520Cx - Front - 120

Infinity Reference REF-6522EX - Rear - 62

Kenwood DDX374BT - HU 177

Subs - 150

Enclosure - 70

Wiring - Already Have

Do you have some recommendations on subs or sub that would be nice in that range little more than 150 is okay (That will work with that amp)

 
Here are better comps for less money

https://jet.com/product/detail/11814801167f4332abc4daa5077763b0?jcmp=pla:ggl:nj_dur_cwin_electronics_a1:electronics_home_audio_speakers_a1:na:pLA_785510854_39764705903_aud-320230129885:pla-305435632453_c:na:na:na:2PLA15&code=PLA15&pid=kenshoo_int&c=785510854&is_retargeting=true&clickid=52e5fad7-f1ff-4e38-a179-bf9d62c23886&gclid=CjwKCAiA6qPRBRAkEiwAGw4Sdms1PIWTh5Wb4HTfvvYoqz1ZM65AgkeLiom-VIaqEpodzYEcKM15_RoC0swQAvD_BwE

I have a set sitting around the house and they are good sounding and still a Harman product (Infinity Kappa is the same set.)

For subs.. I mean it depends on what you want. At 600W Clean like that amp puts out, I think the FU300 would be a good fit, Also W3's are right there, Infinity Kappas sound good. Also you could look at Dayton HO DVCs. Those sound great and are right in that 150 range for a 12. Gramps cant wait to chime in and say the Pioneer 3003 for $80... At $150 the list could be endless //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Here are better comps for less money
https://jet.com/product/detail/11814801167f4332abc4daa5077763b0?jcmp=pla:ggl:nj_dur_cwin_electronics_a1:electronics_home_audio_speakers_a1:na:pLA_785510854_39764705903_aud-320230129885:pla-305435632453_c:na:na:na:2PLA15&code=PLA15&pid=kenshoo_int&c=785510854&is_retargeting=true&clickid=52e5fad7-f1ff-4e38-a179-bf9d62c23886&gclid=CjwKCAiA6qPRBRAkEiwAGw4Sdms1PIWTh5Wb4HTfvvYoqz1ZM65AgkeLiom-VIaqEpodzYEcKM15_RoC0swQAvD_BwE

I have a set sitting around the house and they are good sounding and still a Harman product (Infinity Kappa is the same set.)

For subs.. I mean it depends on what you want. At 600W Clean like that amp puts out, I think the FU300 would be a good fit, Also W3's are right there, Infinity Kappas sound good. Also you could look at Dayton HO DVCs. Those sound great and are right in that 150 range for a 12. Gramps cant wait to chime in and say the Pioneer 3003 for $80... At $150 the list could be endless //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
yes here i am., the pioneer 3003 is a great sub for less than 1k if u are going with 1 12 and u really need ported box.. everyone would say u need custom box if going ported but if u stick with the pioneer u can get 1 for $75 or less thats sounds great and port is big enough for the power u will have., mine was pretty loud in that box.. if u gonna get 2 subs it'll be hard to beat 2 fu 300's but idk how they sound sealed and dual ported box will cost more.. cheaper to get 1 12 and ported box and run all the power to 1 sub.. if u wanta stay sealed get the 1 dayton 12 like blank said they would in pretty small box, with 600rms maybe 1.25 cf would be good..

 
that kenwood hu has hp xover like mine so leave factory rears just get nice 75rms-125x2 amp for fronts run rears off hu.. big blank just tested those amps he may still have them for sale but i'd look for 2 channel for fronts **** less power from alt, power just the speakers that matter..

 
Will it sound better? Yes... Will it sound good? No. I disagree with Jeff, a set of components with an amplifier the sound will be cleaner than non amplified regardless of sound deadening. Adding in Sound Deadening would be a smart move, but I dont think should be the determining factor ... but no your not going have a lot of bass. That's why I recommend going down slightly on the amp output for the 4 channel, and adding a subwoofer.
Infinity Ref704A and 551A = $200 shipped

Capable HU

Wiring $100 roughly

Subwoofer - $100-200

Enclosure

Comps = $120-180

Coaxs-

Total=

You can save money on the HU and enclosure as well....
it really depends, i've fixed too many bad setups to count where people said their stock setups sounded better. You are completely under valuing the sound treatment part. Literally makes the biggest difference when done right.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

This would go a long way to alleviating the dimming issue, up to around 4000 watts. It can handle 100A continuous and up to 285A 7 second burst...
6
268
I had some 9500 series 12s by MTX that were some slamming subs!! Should have kept those along with those torpedo RE XXX 12s
15
452
I am doing an all JL audio instal on my new F250 SD . I'm using a Audio Control LC 5i Pro with a JL Audio XDM 700/5 and C3-650's in all 4 doors...
7
614
Id sit down and figure out exactly what all you will be installing for amperage consumption and add another 10-15% amperage useage on top of that...
21
2K
One Of my favorite sites to gain some information over the years. Excellent! I would deff. Bookmark it!!
38
2K

About this thread

raider89

10+ year member
Member
Thread starter
raider89
Joined
Location
OH
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
39
Views
3,341
Last reply date
Last reply from
raider89
1000006564.jpg

Mr FaceCaser

    Mar 28, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
1000006569.jpg

Mr FaceCaser

    Mar 28, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top