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moparnut

2011 Challenger Build

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After not working with car audio for almost 20 years it was time. I am doing a modest budget build in my Challenger. The box is a transmission line (my first time building one of them) with a port length of almost 8 ft. I already know the port is a little short, however it is tuned around 36Hz and is hitting 126. For a single sub on less than 300 I'll take it. There is still some work and I will update this thread as progress happens. I am open to suggestions that any may have.

 

https://imgur.com/mSHBskk

https://imgur.com/6gyVJqP

https://imgur.com/t7RQ5Jw

https://imgur.com/6sF143m

https://imgur.com/FvVq9Ee

 

Adding the last 45's

https://imgur.com/IHtCkOa

https://imgur.com/7RcYpYX

https://imgur.com/JKjATeL

https://imgur.com/bJGFIhQ

 

I can't get the pics to load

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The port of the box comes out under the factory sub hole. I am going to cut this open and extend the port through to fire off of the back window

 

https://imgur.com/TErIwnF

 

Rockford Fosgate R1S4-12 powered by a Pioneer GM-D8601

 

https://imgur.com/j4WFzDZ

yeah just get a nicer d4 sub u be fine.. just since u tuned like me that amp don't have a ss filter..


KENWOOD X301 HU, PRECISION POWER Phantom 1000, FU 750 12, 2.1cfad ported, soundqubed 6.5" coax/doors, hp & lp xover on hu, AGM starting batt...

Boomin_tahoe said:
2 ohms rule

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I'll be updating the sub at some point for sure. The R1 is handling things nicely for now.

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yeah just get a nicer d4 sub u be fine.. just since u tuned like me that amp don't have a ss filter..

 

Getting ready to order a PPI d2 sub (either phantom or power series, I haven't decided). I can then run the amp at 1 ohm.

 

I should be starting on the amp racks soon.

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Here are the build pics now that I know how. Grey window trim is magnetically fastened. The box now has has been turned around and the sub facing the rear of the car. I'm doing invisible mounts floating mounts for the amps. Amp rack pics coming soon.

 

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Who designed this? I thought t-lines have only have one opening, not two?


97 4 dr. Tahoe

Interstate battery

Alpine 9835

Polk Audio MM6501 comps

Wolfram amps coming soon, 3000.1, 125.4

2 Sundown Audio X 15's Tuned @ 30Hz.

Knukonceptz/Royal Excelene wiring

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I did. The line is roughly 7 1/2 feet, which comes up a little short. I am going to extend it about 18 more inches. There is only the one opening in the top visible in the first pic. The two in the back are acrylic windows and are sealed.

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Oh gotcha.


97 4 dr. Tahoe

Interstate battery

Alpine 9835

Polk Audio MM6501 comps

Wolfram amps coming soon, 3000.1, 125.4

2 Sundown Audio X 15's Tuned @ 30Hz.

Knukonceptz/Royal Excelene wiring

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I got the amp mounted in the trunk over the weekend. I went with a hidden mount and I am very happy with the way it turned out. The LED's aren't quite so bright in person. Let me know what you all think. Either the port lengthening and trim panels around the box or the highs and mids are next. I haven't decided. I still have to get the Pioneer 8604 for the rest of the speakers.

 

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The port is too long and isn't tuned to fs.

 

It should be more like 6-6.25 ft for fs of 30.5hz.

 

Also the qts and qms are higher than the ideal numbers for a t line. I wouldn't have put that sub in a t line personally but if you're happy then fuck it.


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The port is too long and isn't tuned to fs.

 

It should be more like 6-6.25 ft for fs of 30.5hz.

 

Also the qts and qms are higher than the ideal numbers for a t line. I wouldn't have put that sub in a t line personally but if you're happy then fuck it.

 

Which sub are you referring to? If you are referring to the Fosgate, then yes I agree. It went in there as a placeholder and had been replaced recently with a JL Audio 12W0 that I picked up for $40, which sounds pretty good. The PPI by my calculations should work great. The QTS should be something .40 and lower, which the PPI is .4 and the QMS should be lower than 7, which the PPI is 5.46.

 

As for the port length, the Fs of the PPI is 29, which according to my math (1130/29 = 38.96 Ft long port for full sound wave, 38.96/4 = 9.74 ft long port for 1/4 wave Tline)

 

The current port length of 7.5 ft tunes out to roughly 37-38 Hz. The box really does come alive at that freq, but I want more lower end out of it.

 

I ordered the PPI P.12D2 and it should be here Monday, so I'll find out soon enough.

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The PPI showed up yesterday and the box was too shallow at the opening to mount it, so sometimes things have to get uglier before they get pretty. The white patch will get covered in gray vinyl when I recover the box. No biggie since I have to lengthen the port and recover the box anyhow. That'll tune the box to 30Hz when done. It is running at 1 ohm getting 800 from the amp. What a difference that 500 watts makes. Those who may wonder about this sub, I think it is a great contender for a budget build. I definitely only need the one.

 

zHZJFoe.jpg

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Not much here other than crickets, but I'll add these anyhow. I didn't like the panel above and it had to go and I changed the port location. It is much cleaner now. I got the inside part of the trunk wall almost completed over the weekend. Just have to trim it out and put a floor piece in. The back side vanity panels will be the next major part and will be done from fiberglass so I don't have one large block in the trunk. I still am able to get the trunk floor in and out as well as access the spare tire. This car has a huge trunk. Here's the pics.

 

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Everything looks nice for someone who’s been out of it for 20 years...


[sIGPIC][/sIGPIC]

Current 2010 Louisiana USACi State Records :

 

Trunk 0-1000.................. 151.3

StreetBeat 2................... 145.6

Stock 1801-up.................153.8

SuperStock 1801-up..........154.2

Top three in 11 out of 26 power classes and Louisiana USACi Points Leader at 465

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Everything looks nice for someone who’s been out of it for 20 years...

 

Thank you.

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Like riding a bicycle. Right back in there like you never forgot.

 

Great looking work so far. Does the new sub perform well in the t-line?

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Like riding a bicycle. Right back in there like you never forgot.

 

Great looking work so far. Does the new sub perform well in the t-line?

 

Thanks. Box building is box building. If you have access to the tools, the rest can be figured out fairly easy.

 

It performs very well. It'll hit 28hz and move my daughters hair a little, but really comes alive at 36-37Hz. However it is not performing so well since I changed the port to front facing. I'm getting some serious cancellation issues having the port next to the sub like that. I lost all of the gain it was getting from the trunk also, so I'm going to port it through the rear deck like it was before. That was my original design and it sounded great then. The design has changed a few times and may change a few more. It's fluid at this point. It's part of the fun for me.

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Thanks. Box building is box building. If you have access to the tools, the rest can be figured out fairly easy.

 

It performs very well. It'll hit 28hz and move my daughters hair a little, but really comes alive at 36-37Hz. However it is not performing so well since I changed the port to front facing. I'm getting some serious cancellation issues having the port next to the sub like that. I lost all of the gain it was getting from the trunk also, so I'm going to port it through the rear deck like it was before. That was my original design and it sounded great then. The design has changed a few times and may change a few more. It's fluid at this point. It's part of the fun for me.

 

Couldn't really see by your pics what was going on when you ported out through that hole. You'll have to take better pictures when you figure out a way to get the port moved.

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Couldn't really see by your pics what was going on when you ported out through that hole. You'll have to take better pictures when you figure out a way to get the port moved.

 

Hopefully these pics will shed some light. It was an easy move that took a few minutes to make. I originally had the port exiting through the top of the box and put in a piece to block off the top and open the front. I just removed it, covered the piece in vinyl, and positioned it to block the front to open the top back up. The port now is open to the factory sub hole as it was at the start of this whole thing. Cancellation issues are now gone and all is well.

 

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