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Box Confirmation please

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Mogal

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Hello all, first post here.

My current setup is a Pioneer AVIC 7200NEC running directly to factory speakers of a 2009 Hyundai Accent SE. I have an Infinity Reference 1600A amp and up until yesterday, had a Pioneer TS-W302R sub.

Overall I am happy with the setup, as I'm no audiophile, but I do enjoy fairly decent sound.

Well, Yesterday, a huge hole was put though the sub by overloading the trunk with junk LOL.

So I decided to do a little research and found the Rockford Fosgate Punch 12" P3 4-Ohm DVC Subwoofer.

- Hopefully I have matched it up correctly with the amp (600watt @ 2 ohm-Parallel)

My big question is the box. I believe the old box was ported to Approx 35hz? (pic #1 )

From what I have gathered, I'm looking to put together (a similar) box as in Pic #2

Pic #3 is the sub specs, and Pic #4 is the new box design (Old box design was very similar)

Can someone confirm/recommend what I have worked out, and make recommendations before I proceed with building the new box. I don't have the new sub yet, its on order and will take a few weeks to get here.

As for music preferences, I'm generally stuck in the 80s (hair bands) but have an open minded policy when it comes to music played and enjoy a health balance of everything!

Thanks,

View attachment 26556895 View attachment 26556896View attachment 26556897 View attachment 26556899

Click to read more...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hello all, first post here.
My current setup is a Pioneer AVIC 7200NEC running directly to factory speakers of a 2009 Hyundai Accent SE. I have an Infinity Reference 1600A amp and up until yesterday, had a Pioneer TS-W302R sub.

Overall I am happy with the setup, as I'm no audiophile, but I do enjoy fairly decent sound.

Well, Yesterday, a huge hole was put though the sub by overloading the trunk with junk LOL.

So I decided to do a little research and found the Rockford Fosgate Punch 12" P3 4-Ohm DVC Subwoofer.

- Hopefully I have matched it up correctly with the amp (600watt @ 2 ohm-Parallel)

My big question is the box. I believe the old box was ported to Approx 35hz? (pic #1 )

From what I have gathered, I'm looking to put together (a similar) box as in Pic #2

Pic #3 is the sub specs, and Pic #4 is the new box design (Old box design was very similar)

Can someone confirm/recommend what I have worked out, and make recommendations before I proceed with building the new box. I don't have the new sub yet, its on order and will take a few weeks to get here.

As for music preferences, I'm generally stuck in the 80s (hair bands) but have an open minded policy when it comes to music played and enjoy a health balance of everything!

Thanks,

View attachment 26556895 View attachment 26556896View attachment 26556897 View attachment 26556899
Click to expand...
well 1st lots of companys have sales now.. u can get soundqubed hds2 600rms sub very light weight cone so 600rms should be all it needs to be louder than what u had.. i'll look at box specs but why is it angled? and port looks very small..

 
Thanks,

As for the box shape, it just fits well in the back of the hatch of the Accent.

The Specs for the box are from that website (I don't know enough about subs, so kinda relying on the info at Basic car audio electronics) I don't know how to calculate port sizes.

What is the frequency that box is tuned for?

I don't see the height of the box on that drawing?

 
TThere are much better subs for the money than a RF P3. Only RF amps are worth the money.

Use the calculators here: https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp

If you're new to box designing I suggest using an aero port (round with flared ends) They are easiest to design around. 1 4 inch port is all you need for a 12 on >1000w. Add up the port displacement, sub displacement and desired airspace then play around with the volume calculator until you have what is needed.

The tune of the port is based on net volume in relation to the size of the port opening and its length.

 
Thanks for the help guys! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Here is the current box and as you can see, looks ARE very important LOL //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Laugh if you'd like, its okay... I ran out of carpet...

And this is the reason for the angled shape, as it fits in quite nicely.

(Although its about an inch too tall. I'd like to stay with this general shape.

- Overall I was happy with this box (But know it can be better)

- Now that I'm a 'little' more edumacated, I'd like to step it up a little.

- This box was designed with the specs from the basic car audio website

- So far the new box is/was designed from the same website.

The Amp is capable of 600w@2ohm (But runs 400w@4ohm) but that pioneer was only able to do 150w@4ohm. So I thought the Punch sub WOULD be kinda an upgrade?! (Its 600w@2ohm)

Either way, the sub is bought, and is currently in transit.

Would these work ok: R/T Aero Port Tube - 4" Diameter x 6" Long

I'll keep crunching numbers before I start cutting anything LOL.

P.S. The port size on the old box is roughly 2" x 3.75" x 8"

View attachment 26556901 View attachment 26556902View attachment 26556903

 
Thanks for the help guys! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gifHere is the current box and as you can see, looks ARE very important LOL //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Laugh if you'd like, its okay... I ran out of carpet...

And this is the reason for the angled shape, as it fits in quite nicely.

(Although its about an inch too tall. I'd like to stay with this general shape.

- Overall I was happy with this box (But know it can be better)

- Now that I'm a 'little' more edumacated, I'd like to step it up a little.

- This box was designed with the specs from the basic car audio website

- So far the new box is/was designed from the same website.

The Amp is capable of 600w@2ohm (But runs 400w@4ohm) but that pioneer was only able to do 150w@4ohm. So I thought the Punch sub WOULD be kinda an upgrade?! (Its 600w@2ohm)

Either way, the sub is bought, and is currently in transit.

Would these work ok: R/T Aero Port Tube - 4" Diameter x 6" Long

I'll keep crunching numbers before I start cutting anything LOL.

P.S. The port size on the old box is roughly 2" x 3.75" x 8"

View attachment 26556901 View attachment 26556902View attachment 26556903
Click to expand...

Those ports are too short, you need about 12 1/2 inches long for a 35hz tune with 1.8cf and a 4 inch port.

Use this: https://www.parts-express.com/precision-port-4-flared-speaker-cabinet-port-tube-kit--268-352

The port on that old box is wayyyy too small.

 
Thanks for the help guys! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gifHere is the current box and as you can see, looks ARE very important LOL //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Laugh if you'd like, its okay... I ran out of carpet...

And this is the reason for the angled shape, as it fits in quite nicely.

(Although its about an inch too tall. I'd like to stay with this general shape.

- Overall I was happy with this box (But know it can be better)

- Now that I'm a 'little' more edumacated, I'd like to step it up a little.

- This box was designed with the specs from the basic car audio website

- So far the new box is/was designed from the same website.

The Amp is capable of 600w@2ohm (But runs 400w@4ohm) but that pioneer was only able to do 150w@4ohm. So I thought the Punch sub WOULD be kinda an upgrade?! (Its 600w@2ohm)

Either way, the sub is bought, and is currently in transit.

Would these work ok: R/T Aero Port Tube - 4" Diameter x 6" Long

I'll keep crunching numbers before I start cutting anything LOL.

P.S. The port size on the old box is roughly 2" x 3.75" x 8"

View attachment 26556901 View attachment 26556902View attachment 26556903
Click to expand...
wow yeah thats really just a sealed box with a hole in it.. design i showed u was 30 or 32hz but can be changed.. it won't fit in that space.. man unless wanta use all the space back there i strongly suggest a dayton sub in a sealed box.. if u wanta use entire trunk we can adjust the box i showed u for a sub (not the rf) that works in smaller box maybe like a dayton even or a dc audio maybe.. also thats a low end pioneer the 3003 pro i have does very well in 1.5cf ad box but even it will take up more space than that.. u better to do proper sealed box that horrible ported one..

 
Err... I can't get that port for anything less then $65 here... sigh.

So I think what I'll do, as that 4" round port has an area of ~12.5" and a depth of 12.5"

I'll make a wood port 1.25" x 10" and 12.5" long...

Same but different right?

That'll still be tuned to 35hz?

In a box of about 1.8cf.

Thanks!

 
well problem is round ports can be smaller like 7-9 per cf but slot ports need at least 12sq in per cf also your gotta watch making port to narrow that but for say 1.5cf ad (after port and sub disp) port would need to be well 20 sq in or so not 12.. to be honest man if u can fit squared box in there u be better off to copy my prefab 1.5"x13" port 1.6 cf ad at least u would have 12sq in per cf.. if u get that pioneer it has a 96db rating u should think about trying it in a cheap 1.25 cf prefab sealed box (or make 1) see how u like that since space is an issue.. if that don't work may have to work on ported 1 thats well squared even if u use a round port it would have to be ported out the side of box and u unless u curve it which cost more $ and u can't block the port against a wall or whatever.. 1 more thing to consider is get a 10, maybe sq hds2 they cheap af right now do a 1.25cf ported box..

 
Will this work? It'll be about $50 to get it here //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rage.gif.0ad8a6e5565b5fddce406566fdd05149.gif

Precision Port 4" Flared Port Tube Kit

Other thought: Can I walk down to the hardware store and pick up a piece of 10 foot 4" drain pipe for about $25? I think I may go this route. I can experiment with different port lengths too.

 
Will this work? It'll be about $50 to get it here //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rage.gif.0ad8a6e5565b5fddce406566fdd05149.gifPrecision Port 4" Flared Port Tube Kit

Other thought: Can I walk down to the hardware store and pick up a piece of 10 foot 4" drain pipe for about $25? I think I may go this route. I can experiment with different port lengths too.
Click to expand...
yes u can use pipe it should be like $10 maybe for less than 25ft been a while since i bought it, not expensive.. u can let port stick out of box too.. as someone said (i think) u can use a torch and a bowl to "flare" end of pipe one u are sure on port length just make it longer rather than shorter so u can cut some off a little at a time until u like how it sounds, then flare the port or buy one that'll fit it (both ends is better that way.. remember u need 3-6" clear in front of port..

 
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Mogal

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