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DaveT
Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts
Hurtin' feelings errrday.
Is it the newer RE sub or older?
Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts
Hurtin' feelings errrday.
Plastic backing/covering the magnet? Those are junk.
OP
DaveT 10+ year member
CarAudio.com Veteran
- Thread Starter
- #5
I thought it was a rubber magnet cover. Do you mind my asking how the are crap? I’ve run a 12 SE before and it was a great sub. Also I got it for 80 American pesos so I figured I wasn’t going to be soon finding more sub for the money. I have no problems with the sub it sounds great gets load for the power and seems about as tight a the W3 was and puts it to shame in loudness. This is a topic about amps I’d appreciate you sticking to that topic and providing input on what amp is best for my application, thanks.
Gramps will be along shortly with a recommendation.
Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts
Hurtin' feelings errrday.
Yeah...prob a sub like his ad a 2 ohm stable amp. :lol:
Papermaker85 5,000+ posts
Banned
dude you are retarded. stop posting here
Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts
Hurtin' feelings errrday.
I'd like to see you make me.
Papermaker85 5,000+ posts
Banned
if you was close by id make you **** you thumb..
los33
Car Audio G
Whats the max budget?
For a sub like that going for a good cheap amp id say sundown sae1000.1d..
But 1 k can be had for cheaper if thats what you are looking for
Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Papermaker85 5,000+ posts
Banned
ur moms cheap considering the output.
OP
DaveT 10+ year member
CarAudio.com Veteran
- Thread Starter
- #13
I mean we all know how max budget gets pushed in the name of chasing the car Audio dragon but around 250 or so. If I was smart I would still have my old JL 1O00/1 or even the 500/1 I loved those amps.
Now as far as the full break down of the setup in my 99 Mustang Cobra
H/U Eclipse 8153
Highs/mids are the stock Mach 460 with an factory amp harness adaptor.
Sub is a RE *** V2 D2 in about .75-.9 cubic feet stuffed with poly fill powered by the KAC 7204 bridges rated output 500w rms @ 4 ohms bridged. I realize that the sub can already over power the actually decent sounding factory amplified speakers but I hate to not be able to raise a lil voice coil stank if I’m in the bass head mood.
I already have a very nice Pioneer component set and American Bass SQ480 4 channel amp in my car Audio goodie stash to tear out the stock stuff but for now I’m wanting to get my sub stage in order before I go full aftermarket.
I wouldn’t be adverse to around a 1kw or even slightly higher bonus for outputting over 1000 @ 2 ohms or .5 lol in case I decide to pick up a second ***.
Now as far as the full break down of the setup in my 99 Mustang Cobra
H/U Eclipse 8153
Highs/mids are the stock Mach 460 with an factory amp harness adaptor.
Sub is a RE *** V2 D2 in about .75-.9 cubic feet stuffed with poly fill powered by the KAC 7204 bridges rated output 500w rms @ 4 ohms bridged. I realize that the sub can already over power the actually decent sounding factory amplified speakers but I hate to not be able to raise a lil voice coil stank if I’m in the bass head mood.
I already have a very nice Pioneer component set and American Bass SQ480 4 channel amp in my car Audio goodie stash to tear out the stock stuff but for now I’m wanting to get my sub stage in order before I go full aftermarket.
I wouldn’t be adverse to around a 1kw or even slightly higher bonus for outputting over 1000 @ 2 ohms or .5 lol in case I decide to pick up a second ***.
BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts
WOLFRAM FTW
ts 1k is $219, orion xtr 650 $199 does more than rated but i'd get the ts..
The 1000.1D can be had for $199.
I'd go with the NVX 1200.1D and just lower the gain down.
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