Jump to content

v1ks_

Adding amp and speakers to stock HU.

Recommended Posts

Hello there,

 

Another noob here, in need of help. I'm terribly, terribly sorry if I'm asking something that has been covered 101 time, but at the moment I'm just sick and tired of Google searches and trying to figure out what's right and what's a bag of bullcrap. The fact I'm new to this and don't know how half of the stuff is properly called, and the fact that English is not my native language, doesn't help either...

 

I'm looking to replace my factory speakers with aftermarket ones, feeding them off an amp, but retaining the stock head unit. The reason I sort of have to keep the stock head unit is because it's integrated with climate control. Here's the list I'm working with at the moment:

1) 2005 Honda Accord 2.0 (European version)

2) Pioneer D8604 amp (4x100W RMS@4Ohms)

3) Hertz DSK 165.3 comp speakers (80W RMS@4Ohms)

4) Gladen WK20 4awg amp wiring kit

5) Yatour BTA bluetooth and line-in adapter using stock HU's CD changer port

 

Now, since I mostly will be streaming Spotify from my phone and since I'm sort of stuck with the stock HU, I have no ambitions for a high-end, audiophile grade system. All I want is that it sounds -good-.

 

There are two pieces missing in my puzzle at the moment and those are:

1) How to wire stock head unit to the amp

2) Which of the following routes to go:

2.1) Comp up front + sub in the rear

2.2) Comp up front + coax 6x9 in rear deck

 

Today I visited a local store that specializes in aftermarket car audio to pick up the wire kit for the amp. While there I enquired what's the best route to take. They strongly advised not to use a LOC, or if I really want to take that route, to buy the most expensive one I can get, because it will degrade the signal quality. Instead, they suggested I splice the speaker/high level outputs from the factory HU and connect them directly to amp, as it does have a high level input option.

As for number 2, they suggest I get a pair of 100W RMS 6x9's instead of a sub, as those would still deliver somewhat decent bass and would offer an overall better listening experience, compared to a ~250W RMS sub (amp supposedly is good for up to 300W@4Ohm while bridged).

Another thing they suggested, is to get rid of the 80W RMS Hertz components and get something more powerful, as the amp is too powerful for them, even at 'normal' gain level. He said they normally wire these speakers to aftermarket head units, without using an amp and that's all they're good for.

 

Now, on one had I have no reason not to believe them, but the more I read, the less I understand.

 

Can anyone here shed some light, give their two cents, express their opinion on the matter and so forth?

 

I'll be very, very thankful!

 

P.S.

Apologies for grammar, writing in a foreign language here, heh.

 

P.P.S

Not from US of A, but I'm pretty sure the "random" question during registration requires an answer that is wrong...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Jeffdachef another one lol

I'm wondering how a stock HU has the climate controls? Should be separate....unless it's within the same area. Can you post a pic of the stock HU?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hello there,

 

Another noob here, in need of help. I'm terribly, terribly sorry if I'm asking something that has been covered 101 time, but at the moment I'm just sick and tired of Google searches and trying to figure out what's right and what's a bag of bullcrap. The fact I'm new to this and don't know how half of the stuff is properly called, and the fact that English is not my native language, doesn't help either...

 

I'm looking to replace my factory speakers with aftermarket ones, feeding them off an amp, but retaining the stock head unit. The reason I sort of have to keep the stock head unit is because it's integrated with climate control. Here's the list I'm working with at the moment:

1) 2005 Honda Accord 2.0 (European version)

2) Pioneer D8604 amp (4x100W RMS@4Ohms)

3) Hertz DSK 165.3 comp speakers (80W RMS@4Ohms)

4) Gladen WK20 4awg amp wiring kit

5) Yatour BTA bluetooth and line-in adapter using stock HU's CD changer port

 

Now, since I mostly will be streaming Spotify from my phone and since I'm sort of stuck with the stock HU, I have no ambitions for a high-end, audiophile grade system. All I want is that it sounds -good-.

 

There are two pieces missing in my puzzle at the moment and those are:

1) How to wire stock head unit to the amp

2) Which of the following routes to go:

2.1) Comp up front + sub in the rear

2.2) Comp up front + coax 6x9 in rear deck

 

Today I visited a local store that specializes in aftermarket car audio to pick up the wire kit for the amp. While there I enquired what's the best route to take. They strongly advised not to use a LOC, or if I really want to take that route, to buy the most expensive one I can get, because it will degrade the signal quality. Instead, they suggested I splice the speaker/high level outputs from the factory HU and connect them directly to amp, as it does have a high level input option.

As for number 2, they suggest I get a pair of 100W RMS 6x9's instead of a sub, as those would still deliver somewhat decent bass and would offer an overall better listening experience, compared to a ~250W RMS sub (amp supposedly is good for up to 300W@4Ohm while bridged).

Another thing they suggested, is to get rid of the 80W RMS Hertz components and get something more powerful, as the amp is too powerful for them, even at 'normal' gain level. He said they normally wire these speakers to aftermarket head units, without using an amp and that's all they're good for.

 

Now, on one had I have no reason not to believe them, but the more I read, the less I understand.

 

Can anyone here shed some light, give their two cents, express their opinion on the matter and so forth?

 

I'll be very, very thankful!

 

P.S.

Apologies for grammar, writing in a foreign language here, heh.

 

P.P.S

Not from US of A, but I'm pretty sure the "random" question during registration requires an answer that is wrong...

 

only thing that shop said right was not to use a line out convertor. Everything else is bad advice, those components can take an upwards of 125 watts if the power is clean.

 

Get a digital signal processor that can flatten the stock head unit's garbage EQ curve and get a clean flat signal along with being able to properly tune the setup like an audison bit 10 or bit one or a rockford dsr1 if that's cheaper. A sub is pretty necessary, 6x9 wont do anything good for the system nor produce anywhere close to the frequencies a sub can produce.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
[quote name='Boomin_tahoe']@Jeffdachef another one lol

I'm wondering how a stock HU has the climate controls? Should be separate....unless it's within the same area. Can you post a pic of the stock HU?[/QUOTE]

Boy do I hope that "another one" is not a bad thing, heh...
Here's the stock head unit/radio:
[IMG]http://paultan.org/media.paultan.org/2006accord/2006accordfacelift5.jpg[/IMG]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Boy do I hope that "another one" is not a bad thing, heh...

Here's the stock head unit/radio:

2006accordfacelift5.jpg

 

we get a lot of people with cheap and expensive line out convertors coming on here with problems or having poor sound/bass performance all the time and the root cause is the line out convertor with stock head unit combo.

 

Stock head units have a built in EQ curve and agressive high pass filter to protect the speakers from blowing along with trying to make them sound better with the built in EQ since the Stock speakers are crappy. With a line out convertor, you subject ALL your aftermarket equipment to that horrible factory tuning.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
only thing that shop said right was not to use a line out convertor. Everything else is bad advice, those components can take an upwards of 125 watts if the power is clean.

 

Get a digital signal processor that can flatten the stock head unit's garbage EQ curve and get a clean flat signal along with being able to properly tune the setup like an audison bit 10 or bit one or a rockford dsr1 if that's cheaper. A sub is pretty necessary, 6x9 wont do anything good for the system nor produce anywhere close to the frequencies a sub can produce.

 

Thanks for the reply. DSP seems to me quite the overkill for this situation, but I understand what you're saying. Audison Bit 10 is 228 euros, or 270USD. I could, most likely, get a semi-decent aftermarket HU and an adapter for a 1DIN HU for half that price... Most of the time I see people doing this, with this specific car:

radio.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks for the reply. DSP seems to me quite the overkill for this situation, but I understand what you're saying. Audison Bit 10 is 228 euros, or 270USD. I could, most likely, get a semi-decent aftermarket HU and an adapter for a 1DIN HU for half that price... Most of the time I see people doing this, with this specific car:

 

A single head unit would be optimal, You just said you wanted to retain the stock head unit so thats basically the best choice to retain the stock head unit. However if you can fit a single din head unit, definitely go to that option, its MUCH cheaper.

 

as for head units look for the ones that have these kinds of specs

 

24 bit dac, 13 band EQ, 3 pairs of 4 volt or higher preouts, time alignment. If it doesnt have these options, its either outdated or junk. Alpine brand of head unit is basically the same but with 9 band parametric EQ, They are good choices as well, just less EQ bands but still decent as long as it has time alignment, and high pre-out voltage.

 

 

 

on a side note. Wow the bit ten is cheaper for you guys then us, its 350 usd here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Boy do I hope that "another one" is not a bad thing, heh...

Here's the stock head unit/radio:

2006accordfacelift5.jpg

 

Holyshit...how would one disassemble that? These newer vehicles, they're getting harder and harder to work on and sometimes even impossible to add aftermarket anything.

 

That bottom Pioneer HU looks idealish tho...it looks a little modified, a Metra kit or Scosche kit would be needed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

its doable with a double din touchscreen as well. My grandpa has the same car, Plenty of space and the vehicle dash kits have double din options.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
[quote name='Jeffdachef']A single head unit would be optimal, You just said you wanted to retain the stock head unit so thats basically the best choice to retain the stock head unit. However if you can fit a single din head unit, definitely go to that option, its MUCH cheaper.

as for head units look for the ones that have these kinds of specs

24 bit dac, 13 band EQ, 3 pairs of 4 volt or higher preouts, time alignment. If it doesnt have these options, its either outdated or junk. Alpine brand of head unit is basically the same but with 9 band parametric EQ, They are good choices as well, just less EQ bands but still decent as long as it has time alignment, and high pre-out voltage.



on a side note. Wow the bit ten is cheaper for you guys then us, its 350 usd here.[/QUOTE]

Audison/Hertz afaik, are owned by the same people and both, again afaik, are EU based, which could be the reason why it's more expensive state-side. Shipping costs and taxes, most likely.
The reason I wanted to retain the stock HU is because it just looks better, imho, than two headunits. Also, I wouldn't have to live huge chunk of almost nonfunctional plastic and metal right in front of my eyes... :)
I also bought a bluetooth adapter with handsfree that plugs into stock HU CDC port and integrates steering wheel controls. Then again, I'm fairly sure I could re-sell it for ~50eur and put that money towards an aftermarket headunit.

@Boomin_tahoe
Can't really disassemble that. Well, technically you can, I mean, it's possible to take it apart, but I certainly wouldn't... :)
As far as the Pioneer pic, it is modified, yes. Those 'adapters' don't cost much. A quick google search netted this:
[url]https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000KL113O/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=all[/url]
$25 is pretty reasonable, but I'd have to find one EU-side, otherwise I'd be paying a 'ton' to have it shipped (relative to the item price at least).

@Jeffdachef
Yeah, I've seen those too. There are also Chinese android headunits that actually fit in the place of stock headunit, with the dual zone climate control integrated in them, but the problem with those are the fact that they are Chinese android headunits that most likely doesn't sound much better than the stock.
As for 2DIN unit in the place of storage compartment, I don't really see the benefits of it. It's too low to be used for navigation comfortably, imho, and I won't be doing any web browsing or video playback in the car. Plus, it's actually nice to be able to at least store your wallet and/or phone within easy reach.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Might try and see if any car audio shops near you have an install kit. Rather than buying one online and paying outragous shipping..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
[quote name='v1ks_']Audison/Hertz afaik, are owned by the same people and both, again afaik, are EU based, which could be the reason why it's more expensive state-side. Shipping costs and taxes, most likely.
The reason I wanted to retain the stock HU is because it just looks better, imho, than two headunits. Also, I wouldn't have to live huge chunk of almost nonfunctional plastic and metal right in front of my eyes... :)
I also bought a bluetooth adapter with handsfree that plugs into stock HU CDC port and integrates steering wheel controls. Then again, I'm fairly sure I could re-sell it for ~50eur and put that money towards an aftermarket headunit.

@Boomin_tahoe
Can't really disassemble that. Well, technically you can, I mean, it's possible to take it apart, but I certainly wouldn't... :)
As far as the Pioneer pic, it is modified, yes. Those 'adapters' don't cost much. A quick google search netted this:
[url]https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000KL113O/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=all[/url]
$25 is pretty reasonable, but I'd have to find one EU-side, otherwise I'd be paying a 'ton' to have it shipped (relative to the item price at least).

@Jeffdachef
Yeah, I've seen those too. There are also Chinese android headunits that actually fit in the place of stock headunit, with the dual zone climate control integrated in them, but the problem with those are the fact that they are Chinese android headunits that most likely doesn't sound much better than the stock.
As for 2DIN unit in the place of storage compartment, I don't really see the benefits of it. It's too low to be used for navigation comfortably, imho, and I won't be doing any web browsing or video playback in the car. Plus, it's actually nice to be able to at least store your wallet and/or phone within easy reach.[/QUOTE]

single din would be your best bet then. Just keep in mind the specs listed. If the head unit meets or exceeds those options then its a good head unit. Over in US, we have one that meets those requirements as cheap as 80 USD which includes a wiring harness and dash kit as well.

If you want the best single din under 1000 dollars, the pioneer 80 prs is better than anything on the market SQ wise. Otherwise its fine if you get any other kenwood, jvc, alpine, clarion or sony units that meet the specs listed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
single din would be your best bet then. Just keep in mind the specs listed. If the head unit meets or exceeds those options then its a good head unit. Over in US, we have one that meets those requirements as cheap as 80 USD which includes a wiring harness and dash kit as well.

 

If you want the best single din under 1000 dollars, the pioneer 80 prs is better than anything on the market SQ wise. Otherwise its fine if you get any other kenwood, jvc, alpine, clarion or sony units that meet the specs listed.

 

CZ702 :D (Had to rub it in)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I...I just dunno what to say to that...

 

yeah i didnt know what to say when i saw an 80 dollar head unit with that kind of specs. Pretty speechless. All the bells and whistles with 4 volt pre-out AND network mode along with some other options that pioneer and clarion doesnt have either. Guys on FB tested the pre-out voltage and its true to volts.

 

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-h0RY3JFjDeX/p_105KDX340B/JVC-KD-X340BTS.html

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
yeah i didnt know what to say when i saw an 80 dollar head unit with that kind of specs. Pretty speechless. All the bells and whistles with 4 volt pre-out AND network mode along with some other options that pioneer and clarion doesnt have either. Guys on FB tested the pre-out voltage and its true to volts.

 

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-h0RY3JFjDeX/p_105KDX340B/JVC-KD-X340BTS.html

 

Spotted a drawback...doesn't play CD's. Your thinking who plays CD's anymore? I do

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Spotted a drawback...doesn't play CD's. Your thinking who plays CD's anymore? I do

 

i'd put all that in the computer and convert it all into flac/wav files and put them in different folders of a USB and actually keep those CDs in mint condition while enjoying the same level of sound quality with much better convenience.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll keep the specs in mind and look around what I can find.

Chinese are always an option I guess, when it comes to the install kit. Free shipping and most of the time the quality will be the same, since it's all being manufactured in China anyway, only drawback is the fact that it can take up to 30 days for the product to arrive.

A question though, regarding the head units. Won't it be the case where all SQ goes to waste, since I mostly plan to stream spotify from my phone over BT? I mean, even with the HU and the phone supporting aptX, we're still talking about bluetooth AND streaming from the net, where even Extreme Quality setting something similar to 320kbps MP3 in terms of quality.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i'd put all that in the computer and convert it all into flac/wav files and put them in different folders of a USB and actually keep those CDs in mint condition while enjoying the same level of sound quality with much better convenience.

 

Isn't USB a lower quality for music listening?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Certainly not. USB carries digital signal for one, so there is no loss when signal is transferred from source to the DAC in the headunit. With USB there's just a question how good the DAC in headunit is and how well it can convert that digital signal to analog. BT is digital signal as well, but every protocol it uses (save for aptX Lossless, which is very uncommon, to say the least), has some level of compression.

 

More bad news - I'm unable to find that JVC locally and ****, that 80PRS is 292 euros - 345USD!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Isn't USB a lower quality for music listening?

 

both are lossless files from the same source file. Its the same quality more or less, you wont notice a single difference because both are at the highest bitrate possible

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Certainly not. USB carries digital signal for one, so there is no loss when signal is transferred from source to the DAC in the headunit. With USB there's just a question how good the DAC in headunit is and how well it can convert that digital signal to analog. BT is digital signal as well, but every protocol it uses (save for aptX Lossless, which is very uncommon, to say the least), has some level of compression.

 

More bad news - I'm unable to find that JVC locally and ****, that 80PRS is 292 euros - 345USD!

 

heeey I like you already you already understand sources!!! However in car CD players do read it as digital first before converting to analog. USB and CD will be the same if its from the same source file.

 

Anyways, The US market will be different from the EU market and vice versa.

 

As long as the head unit has

24 bit dac, 13 band eq, 3 pairs of 4 volt rca preouts and time alignment. You should be good, it would the be EU equivalent of the US models available.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Certainly not. USB carries digital signal for one, so there is no loss when signal is transferred from source to the DAC in the headunit. With USB there's just a question how good the DAC in headunit is and how well it can convert that digital signal to analog. BT is digital signal as well, but every protocol it uses (save for aptX Lossless, which is very uncommon, to say the least), has some level of compression.

 

More bad news - I'm unable to find that JVC locally and ****, that 80PRS is 292 euros - 345USD!

 

both are lossless files from the same source file. Its the same quality more or less, you wont notice a single difference because both are at the highest bitrate possible

 

heeey I like you already you already understand sources!!! However in car CD players do read it as digital first before converting to analog. USB and CD will be the same if its from the same source file.

 

Anyways, The US market will be different from the EU market and vice versa.

 

As long as the head unit has

24 bit dac, 13 band eq, 3 pairs of 4 volt rca preouts and time alignment. You should be good, it would the be EU equivalent of the US models available.

 

SOB...I'm a little behind in the times. My Clarion has USB port/outlet I've never used. wonder if it's possible to transfer my MP3 songs to USB?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SOB...I'm a little behind in the times. My Clarion has USB port/outlet I've never used. wonder if it's possible to transfer my MP3 songs to USB?

 

yes its always possible.

 

and its MP3??? omgg lol. I thought you actually had store bought CDs.... If its mp3s, then there is no excuse at all not to use usb.

 

Store bought CDs, you'd have to rip off the music and convert it into wav or flac then you put it in the usb.... If its just mp3s, then its a simple drag and drop.

 

You might also want to find a better source to get lossless music rather than mp3 btw...

 

Man you've been living under a rock all this time. I thought you knew more than that lol.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×