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Planning on a build with a crescendo d5500, (or taramps 8k) 2 kinetic hc-2000 blu batteries, interstate batterie in the front. Big 3 and multiple grounds in the back, and 2 psi p-3 15s. That's the list for the back, haven't decided on the front. It's gonna take me a long time. Trying to do all my research ahead of time, what I'm wanting to know (it's the last piece of the puzzle) how do I plan for a c pillar wall. How do I decide what to cut. What cubic feet. What will work in my space. I'm thinking of something like this picture but with the subs up top. And a beauty panel with mids an tweets in it. But I'm really bad at math and comprehending things Without A visual representation. Thanks ahead of time

 

aivytNomIpSS59s53

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Hit up buck designs if he's still doing them or cscstang if he's around. Box designers are getting harder to find but there's a thread here 65 pages long showing you exactly why it pays to spend a few bucks on a design. For two 15s on that kinda power a 8-9cft box tuned to taste would get down and could do subs up port back and get good results. I'd go 18s if your set on a wall. Personally in a SUV two 15s walled us kinda a waste unless it's a little truck like a Kia Soul or something tiny. And keep your speakers up front :) don't waste them with rear fill. I mean to each their own.

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Planning on a build with a crescendo d5500, (or taramps 8k) 2 kinetic hc-2000 blu batteries, interstate batterie in the front. Big 3 and multiple grounds in the back, and 2 psi p-3 15s. That's the list for the back, haven't decided on the front. It's gonna take me a long time. Trying to do all my research ahead of time, what I'm wanting to know (it's the last piece of the puzzle) how do I plan for a c pillar wall. How do I decide what to cut. What cubic feet. What will work in my space. I'm thinking of something like this picture but with the subs up top. And a beauty panel with mids an tweets in it. But I'm really bad at math and comprehending things Without A visual representation. Thanks ahead of time

 

aivytNomIpSS59s53

 

What vehicle? Best bet is to go out and gather up some big cardboard boxes and some tape and mock up a box in the back and take some measurements. Unless it's a pretty small vehicle you may do as well or better with just a normal box for only 2 15s. Most any SUV you can get 8-10 cube for just a regular box.

 

 

there's a thread here 65 pages long showing you exactly why it pays to spend a few bucks on a design.

 

His first attempt was a design he paid for and just flopped with the execution.

 

Better advice would be to know your limitiations and take whatever you're not comfortable with to a professional.

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I'm lost I'm not understanding what your saying. I already have 1 run of 0 gauge ofc skyhigh running to the front. And 1 ground bolted to the frame attached to my second battery. (Yes it's not made to be in the car yes I understand a 70 pound block of acid flying in an accident scenario is a bad idea, no I don't have the money to do something about it atm) but. When it comes time, buying 1050 worth of subs and $550 to $1160 of amp (depending on which I get) and building a massive box plus all the extra wiring and the big 3. Isn't going to leave much room to squeeze in a 650$ alternator :suicide::laugh: but your saying skip the batteries, but going right back and saying get a pair. I'm lost.

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I'm lost I'm not understanding what your saying. I already have 1 run of 0 gauge ofc skyhigh running to the front. And 1 ground bolted to the frame attached to my second battery. (Yes it's not made to be in the car yes I understand a 70 pound block of acid flying in an accident scenario is a bad idea, no I don't have the money to do something about it atm) but. When it comes time, buying 1050 worth of subs and $550 to $1160 of amp (depending on which I get) and building a massive box plus all the extra wiring and the big 3. Isn't going to leave much room to squeeze in a 650$ alternator :suicide::laugh: but your saying skip the batteries, but going right back and saying get a pair. I'm lost.

 

if you can't afford the alternator and two batteries just get the alternator. if you go with just batteries put them close to the device that draws the most current.

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That does make more since. I was thinking a taramps 8k but I'd have to go all out to achieve that steady voltage. Hence why I bumped up to CT. Reliability. Now I'm thinking if I just got it and threw the rest at and alt and just one upgraded battery it's Ballance itself out. There's just no way to make a decision on all this fml :crap:

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and you are a fool to spend 1k on an amp and not spend 350 to 400 on a alt.

you could get a decent 3kw and more efficient woofers.

 

the manufactures only make it because people buy it. you don't need 6kw to get 150.

a solid 3kw on 2 efficient well designed 15s will get you low 150s.

example

 

SSD Series - SSD15 | Fi Car Audio

flat wound coil and cooling 760

SSA Store - Twisted Sounds TS2.8KW (TS2.8KW)

dual 2s so you can run the amp at 1ohm. its really a 3500 thats 1/2ohm stable..

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That does make more since. I was thinking a taramps 8k but I'd have to go all out to achieve that steady voltage. Hence why I bumped up to CT. Reliability. Now I'm thinking if I just got it and threw the rest at and alt and just one upgraded battery it's Ballance itself out. There's just no way to make a decision on all this fml :crap:

 

ive spend probably 30 grand on car audio.

first thing i buy is an alternator and a good battery.

second i buy wiring

3rd i reinforce the car/truck

4th i decide what i want to spend and achieve.

next is testing the acoustics of the vehicle with the box i intend on building.

 

for example if i want a SPL car i try to use subs with a higher motor strength and lower MMS. power isn't a huge factor in high SPL efficiency is. acoustics play a FAR bigger role that power or woofers. i suggest trying to focus more on making the car rigid and designing a system that suits your needs. naturally the cabin will have a peak. if you want ouput use that peak to choose the woofers that are most efficient in that bandwidth and with the given space you have..

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Like I said the only alt I can get for my car (and I'd have to modify my car) cost 650$ cause irragi is the only one who's said they can do it. It's a 320 amp on the plus side

i've been through this before. you can get the alt rebuilt to putout 50 to 80% more power

with a 6kw you will get maybe 4500 with a stock alt and 3 batteries and it will be much less efficient.

you could grab the twisted sounds 3500.1 drop the 2 batteries to one and add the alternator. even rebuilding the alt(about a dollar an amp) would be better than adding another battery..

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Ah, I see. I wanna do at least 140. I just walked into this thinking ah just some DC level 3's nah go bigger psi level 3s big box big amp big power plug and go. Now I'm realizing I've dealved into a rabbit whole of headaches and head scratching :laugh:

 

most people will tell you you need to spend all kinda money's on huge amps and woofers. I'm doing mid to high 140s in a trunk with one 15 and a 3500.1 and its not tuned to meter and its in a trunk.

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I have a mint skar 2k I could sell for prob 200 so getting the bigger amp would make more since for future proofing. But who can rebuild my alt and what am I gonna drive without it for a few weeks :laugh:

 

places that rewind motors. you can get a used one from a junk yard and have it rewound. Then take the stock one get it rewound and build a bracket. then you up there with the big boys. lol

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So get the alt or rewind. Big 3. Then buy the mess of wire. 1 kinetic. Modify my front battery tray to hold a big a$ boat one. Hardware. 2 15s. ehh I'ma say 10 cube box at 30 hz needs built. Then put it all together. Then work on mids an highs even though it'll sound like booty till I do

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