Setting gains different for active setup?

Sguirrelfeather

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This may sound silly, but I'd rather ask than not know. Most folks recommend setting gains for subs with ~50Hz, and the highs with ~1KHz tones. This is how I always did it in the past. However, now that I have gone three-way active, I was wondering if there was a better way.

What I ended up doing was setting the gains on each channel with the 1KHz tone being fed from the mid RCA cable (just connected the same cable to each input as needed), and, after setting the gains, connected the proper RCA cables back as well as making sure any amp settings, such as low pass. was correct. It seems to be ok, but should I be using three different tones to set my front stage? One for mid-bass, one for mids, and one for highs?

 
dont bother using the dmm method thats all i can say. Really know your system limits and recognize clipping and distortion by ear when it comes to mids and highs. Along with monitoring temperatures of amps and speakers. Its an okay method for noobs but when you are more advanced, you should really learn what your system limits are.

 
I do try to monitor by ear, but like a good baseline to at least start with, so that's why I set them with the DMM. That, and I have a weird hearing issue from getting blown up in Afghanistan, so sometimes I have problems hearing certain freqs. lol

 
This may sound silly, but I'd rather ask than not know. Most folks recommend setting gains for subs with ~50Hz, and the highs with ~1KHz tones. This is how I always did it in the past. However, now that I have gone three-way active, I was wondering if there was a better way.
What I ended up doing was setting the gains on each channel with the 1KHz tone being fed from the mid RCA cable (just connected the same cable to each input as needed), and, after setting the gains, connected the proper RCA cables back as well as making sure any amp settings, such as low pass. was correct. It seems to be ok, but should I be using three different tones to set my front stage? One for mid-bass, one for mids, and one for highs?
Sorry to newb out on your thread, but going active pretty much means using active crossovers preamp, correct? I'm 40 been out of the game for awhile and trying to learn as much as I can for my system I'm going to be putting together, and of course just for general knowledge because it's a fun an interesting subject[emoji12].

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Sorry to newb out on your thread, but going active pretty much means using active crossovers preamp, correct? I'm 40 been out of the game for awhile and trying to learn as much as I can for my system I'm going to be putting together, and of course just for general knowledge because it's a fun an interesting subject[emoji12].

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Yes, correct. It is filtered actively before it amplifies and each speaker receives its own amp. Requires more tuning involved to get it right. Whereas in a passive setup, it's filtered after the full signal has been amplified through 2 channels. Very easy to setup with very little work other than a High pass filter and only needs 2 channels.

 
@Sguirrelfeather; I feel there is no point in using the DMM method for setting gains for active front stage. You hardly need as much power as you do with a passive but it's definitely nice to have headroom of course. So what I normally do is straight up turn my gains for the tweeter at 0 gain regardless of power. I've had to attenuate my tweeters in every active setup I've had through my headunit so there's no need to even turn the gain up IMO. Now when it comes to mids, that's where you have to use your ears. Gonna take multiple tries but try to match it up with the tweeter as much as possible and slowly turn the volume up to hear if theres any distortion with your music at high volumes. With the sub I would go ahead and use the DMM method or ears, not that hard to blend in once you have the front stage where you want it.
 
[quote name='blazian87']@Sguirrelfeather; I feel there is no point in using the DMM method for setting gains for active front stage. You hardly need as much power as you do with a passive but it's definitely nice to have headroom of course. So what I normally do is straight up turn my gains for the tweeter at 0 gain regardless of power. I've had to attenuate my tweeters in every active setup I've had through my headunit so there's no need to even turn the gain up IMO. Now when it comes to mids, that's where you have to use your ears. Gonna take multiple tries but try to match it up with the tweeter as much as possible and slowly turn the volume up to hear if theres any distortion with your music at high volumes. With the sub I would go ahead and use the DMM method or ears, not that hard to blend in once you have the front stage where you want it.[/QUOTE]

these conversations really make me wanna sell my avhx4500bt and get an active capable deck and run my elite.4. Wthe wiring is gonna be intensive too methinks
 
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these conversations really make me wanna sell my avhx4500bt and get an active capable deck and run my elite.4. Wthe wiring is gonna be intensive too methinks
or add a DSP if u want to keep ur current headunit. The tuning goes more in depth.

 
SMD has been rocking rockford since the beginning. I keep hearing good reviews on the minidsp6x8 and it's even more bang for buck.

yeah rockford finally has a product that gives me unimaginable boners that wont go away.
which one do you guys think is better? Id like to get that elite.4 installed. Itll probably kill my electrical system tho LOL

 
which one do you guys think is better? Id like to get that elite.4 installed. Itll probably kill my electrical system tho LOL
dsr-1, the game changer bro.. Bluetooth controlled DSP that has almost everything every other processor on the market has. left right EQ as well. Just no individual left right crossover points/slopes but thats just being really nitpicky and to be honest its not needed. IT literally has everything you would ever need for a processor.

and its 250 dollars.

 
dsr-1, the game changer bro.. Bluetooth controlled DSP that has almost everything every other processor on the market has. left right EQ as well. Just no individual left right crossover points/slopes but thats just being really nitpicky and to be honest its not needed. IT literally has everything you would ever need for a processor.
and its 250 dollars.
Wow finally someone creates something of quality without breaking the bank. Gonna recommend everyone now getting into the DSP game. Bluetooth with app is so convenient man times have changed

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That's nothing but an annoyingly common phrase to try to sound smart. Don't say "gain is not a volume knob" until you can explain how it differs...
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Sounds like you got it set correctly.
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