Scored some gear in a car purchase

Jtyson

Junior Member
Well, I bought a car for my sister and along with it came some car audio equipment that I'm not entirely sure what I'm going to do with. For a long while now, I've wanted to put something in my truck, but being a truck that has to function, I'm pretty limited.

Anyway, this is what I got.

5 Skar ZVX 8 Dual 2 ohm subs

Crescendo bc3500 amp

Powermax alternator (Came with stock too so I can swap that back in)

1/0 wiring

2 Farad cap

Custom box that is pretty terrible.

The system wasn't hooked up when I took the car. I tied it in to test it, and sure enough, it all works, and pretty well. Although for a potential 4500 RMS watts, I feel like it should have been doing much more. Back in the day, I had an impala with 2 RFR3112 and 2 bd1000 amps that easily outdid what these were doing. Granted, the box these Skars are in is pretty bad and I'm sure not tuned right. Not sure how they're wired either, so no clue what the amp is putting out.

I didn't know about Skar before getting these. Guess they're basically Sundown tail riders. Whatever. If they perform similar, that isn't necessarily a bad deal. I had always thought about putting a couple SA8s or x8s in my truck somehow.

So where I'm at now is deciding whether I should try and find a way to cram 1-5 of these things in my truck, or sell any combo of them to recoup some money on the vehicle purchase.

What are you guys thinking?

If I should keep, got any covert ideas for a 2006 GMC Crew Cab? I was considering building a custom console with room for some. Or maybe under the back seat if I were to modify things for them to fit. Anyone know how picky these are about space? Perform better sealed/ported?

If I should sell them, how much do you guys think is fair for what I've got? I have zero clue on the used market for these.

 
Some good stuff there. Any pics?

And what's wrong with the enclosure? If it's a bad design, it's not gonna sound good. A properly designed box for those subs should slam.

 
Port em'... the factory specs for the box on my EVL's were no good... I had port compression and stinky coils... then they really opened up in a larger box with way more port and no more stinky coils!.. LOL!

 
Good score. The cap is going to be worthless and that amp is solid but will definitely want an additional battery, preferably 110 amp hour size if you want it to not blow up.

Most modern subs like this are designed to function best in a ported box so that's likely your best option if you want to try to run them. Center console in a truck looks spiffy but will deliver lackluster performance. If you're about function over form you'd probably do better with a box designed to work well in a pickup (subs up ported towards driver's side) in the rear. I'd wager 3 of them in a box like that would outperform all 5 in a center console. You totally have options though, and if MSRP is 230$ you could probably get 100$ a pop for them pretty fast.

 
I've got a diesel truck so I'm already running two batteries. Single alternator though. I could probably upgrade batteries and add a second alternator if I needed to, but I'd like to keep things cheap if I do go that route. I need to do some reading on these particular subs I guess before I decide what to do.

My idea of a center console box was simply to preserve my usable space. I know under the rear seat would probably be my best bet though. I'll have to do some measuring and see what sort of cubic footage I can get out of either area with a reasonable amount of work that leaves my space as functional as it is now. One question for you guys based on the suggestion...why the port facing the driver's seat? In such a small cab, does that really make much of a difference? Also, to point them up, I'd probably have to lift my seat, or build a custom rear seat setup as I believe floor to seat clearance is only about 6" now. Think the sub with excursion is probably closer to 9-10" plus mounting and such would mean I'd need to double my clearance.

Yeah I knew one way or the other I'd be unloading the capacitor as they are pretty worthless.

I didn't take any great pictures of the box, but this is what I have on my phone right now. Basically you see 3 in front here, then there are two on the back, with a PVC bell adapter used as a port. The box is symmetrical front to back with the speakers leaning like you see. Speaker wire goes in through the port, box isn't supported on the inside and is only 5/8" board, not sure of cubic area, odd shape, etc. They did go to the extent to seal all the screw holes and seams though.

View attachment 26556319

 
Sell off one of the subs, along with the cap. Keep the 4 subs, get a good design for it then hook them all to that amp. Nice stable "safe" ohm load. The 5 I'm sure had a weired final ohm load.

 
Good score. The cap is going to be worthless and that amp is solid but will definitely want an additional battery, preferably 110 amp hour size if you want it to not blow up.
Most modern subs like this are designed to function best in a ported box so that's likely your best option if you want to try to run them. Center console in a truck looks spiffy but will deliver lackluster performance. If you're about function over form you'd probably do better with a box designed to work well in a pickup (subs up ported towards driver's side) in the rear. I'd wager 3 of them in a box like that would outperform all 5 in a center console. You totally have options though, and if MSRP is 230$ you could probably get 100$ a pop for them pretty fast.
what you need an extra battery for when he has a high output alt? i have one starting battery and a 3600.1 wired to 1/2 ohm and i don't have any problems.

 
what you need an extra battery for when he has a high output alt? i have one starting battery and a 3600.1 wired to 1/2 ohm and i don't have any problems.
Hey...did you know not all electrical systems are the same? lol...

 
Yeah these trucks are power hungry. Though to be entirely truthful, I'm not sure what amp alternator is in them from the factory, so it very well could be running at the very top of its capability just operating standard vehicle functions. I've had 3 of these trucks and every one of them dims the headlights at night when I hit the window switches and load the window motors.

I've been working out the other bugs on this car so I haven't really had the time to start digging into specs, wiring, enclosures, etc.

I really miss big bass. My truck has the bose factory system with that tiny little sub, which is better than nothing. But even the little powered 10" kicker I had in the last one was more capable. The idea of getting some of these in my truck is exciting. Hopefully I can get good news when I measure things. Or worst case scenario, hopefully I can sell the whole lot of them for a decent chunk of change.

 
Id raise the rear seat approx 2-1 1/2" and downfire 4 of those 8s ported and place that amp on the back wall..Do the Big 3 and get some decent AGM batts under the hood to replace the existing lead batts.That stock alt should be about a 120-140 amp? But if you have that HO alt..Id put that in for sure,and do that Big 3/on both batts as Ive done my truck with two batts under my hood,and you shouldnt have any issues with dimming or power hunger.That Bose system may become an issue to be by-passed, or be conflicting with additions with existing HU if it has a built in amplifier for the front and rear speakers, but you may have an external just for the existing sub in place.If so..you can keep the existing HU on the front and rears,and remove the bose external bass amp and or just leave in place disconnected and place new external amplifier in its placement for external amp for new subs. A little research will be needed for the existing wiring diagram of existing audio wiring and amplification units to confirm what can be by-passed easily /ect.

 
Yeah these trucks are power hungry. Though to be entirely truthful, I'm not sure what amp alternator is in them from the factory, so it very well could be running at the very top of its capability just operating standard vehicle functions. I've had 3 of these trucks and every one of them dims the headlights at night when I hit the window switches and load the window motors.
I've been working out the other bugs on this car so I haven't really had the time to start digging into specs, wiring, enclosures, etc.

I really miss big bass. My truck has the bose factory system with that tiny little sub, which is better than nothing. But even the little powered 10" kicker I had in the last one was more capable. The idea of getting some of these in my truck is exciting. Hopefully I can get good news when I measure things. Or worst case scenario, hopefully I can sell the whole lot of them for a decent chunk of change.
Typically dimming headlights is a result of overload of your electrical, weak small gauge wiring. Doing the big 3 should resolve this.

 
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Jtyson

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