Zx2500 problem

Slobalt

CarAudio.com Elite
I've had the amp since new haven't done anything to it prior to the problem which was it stopped outputting any sound out of no where. I made sure it was the amp by putting a different one in its place and it worked fine. The amp powers up no problem and the protect light is NOT on. I cracked it open to maybe see something fried and this is what I found, I don't if it's normal but it doesn't look it.



Any advice would be helpful or recommendation of someone who can repair it.

 
Better pic, this is on the input side
I'm guessing VR = Variable Resistor; meaning it's a potentiometer that is precision set during some sort of testing process then covered with glue so that it can't be changed by a curious user.

Really most stuff that can go wrong with an amp won't be visible.

 
I'm guessing VR = Variable Resistor; meaning it's a potentiometer that is precision set during some sort of testing process then covered with glue so that it can't be changed by a curious user.
Really most stuff that can go wrong with an amp won't be visible.
I figured it wouldn't be, any recommendations on a place that can fix it?

 
I figured it wouldn't be, any recommendations on a place that can fix it?
I will vouch for Amp Medics in Florida or The Amp Lab in Maine. Go with whomever is closer to you to minimize shipping cost (assuming you're actually east coast).

Also worth mentioning, Kicker may be able to service it or have an "authorized" shop to recommend. The up-side with authorized shop is that they'd have access to any proprietary or otherwise hard to find parts if needed.

Years ago Kicker used to just re-board amps for a flat fee, going as far to just send you current model of comparable power if yours was too old and they didn't have parts on hand.

 
Where/how was the amp mounted that it caused it to stop making sounds?

I had a feeling this question was going to come up, it's the answer your expecting. I've done it for years and I've never had a problem till now and I know this time it could have been the problem.

 
I will vouch for Amp Medics in Florida or The Amp Lab in Maine. Go with whomever is closer to you to minimize shipping cost (assuming you're actually east coast).
Also worth mentioning, Kicker may be able to service it or have an "authorized" shop to recommend. The up-side with authorized shop is that they'd have access to any proprietary or otherwise hard to find parts if needed.

Years ago Kicker used to just re-board amps for a flat fee, going as far to just send you current model of comparable power if yours was too old and they didn't have parts on hand.
Same with MTX years ago as well....flat rate of 66 bucks, no matter what amp nor model number. It was a deal back then.

 
I had a feeling this question was going to come up, it's the answer your expecting. I've done it for years and I've never had a problem till now and I know this time it could have been the problem.
I'm a kinda think outside the box kinda guy sometimes, if you will. Obviously, it went wrong/bad in the set up you had. Still didn't say how it was mounted....unless you wanna keep it to yourself, I understand. But...in the near future, now you know. Unless you didn't have much subs from resonance to cause the "damage".

 
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Slobalt

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