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How do I connect wooden dowels? (Window)

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Based

Based

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Ok this is a box I'm designing for a 12" subwoofer. I have everything good to go but I'm trying to design how I'm going to do the bracing. I really want to learn how to make a window brace out of dowels. I have these 4 dowels intersecting and they are placed so that every 6 inches there is a brace.

Has anyone done this? How?

EDIT: for some reason the picture won't upload to my attachments. Basically; how do I intersect wooden dowels?

Click to read more...
 
Ok this is a box I'm designing for a 12" subwoofer. I have everything good to go but I'm trying to design how I'm going to do the bracing. I really want to learn how to make a window brace out of dowels. I have these 4 dowels intersecting and they are placed so that every 6 inches there is a brace.
Has anyone done this? How?

EDIT: for some reason the picture won't upload to my attachments. Basically; how do I intersect wooden dowels?
Click to expand...
Could you cut a pvc cross fitting in half? Then screw from the backside of the fitting?

 
Maybe I would be better off getting a sheet of MDF and cutting it into a window brace. I just am not sure about the fact that it would be square edges and not round.

 
Maybe I would be better off getting a sheet of MDF and cutting it into a window brace. I just am not sure about the fact that it would be square edges and not round.
Click to expand...
To intersect dowels, you would cut half out of one side of the dowel then half out of the other dowel at the intersection point and lay them together. Then you could always use a wood filler to clean up any gaps and sand

 
Ok this is a box I'm designing for a 12" subwoofer. I have everything good to go but I'm trying to design how I'm going to do the bracing. I really want to learn how to make a window brace out of dowels. I have these 4 dowels intersecting and they are placed so that every 6 inches there is a brace.
Has anyone done this? How?

EDIT: for some reason the picture won't upload to my attachments. Basically; how do I intersect wooden dowels?
Click to expand...
Why do they need to connect ? I just leave enough clearence they dont ever touch each other ? I have never used wood dowels only 1/2 pipe and pipe flanges which may be overkill for your situation. Also dont understand your term window braceing ?

View attachment 26555989View attachment 26555990View attachment 26555991

 
Why do they need to connect ? I just leave enough clearence they dont ever touch each other ? I have never used wood dowels only 1/2 pipe and pipe flanges which may be overkill for your situation. Also dont understand your term window braceing ?View attachment 26555989View attachment 26555990View attachment 26555991
Click to expand...
They don't HAVE to connect but I just think it looks cleaner and also it saves some room in the box for my aero ports and the woofer itself.

And by window bracing I mean just regular cross bracing just intersecting. Like the middle of a window pane or whatever it's called.

 
Take a router bit and flatten a few mm deep off by the middle section of the dowel rod, cut the other in half wood glue together done...

 
This is the pic of my design.

https://ibb.co/eqX3Yv

What I'm thinking is just get a sheet of MDF and cut it into that criss-cross shape and wedge it/glue it in there. I'm gonna have to move the bracing back by about half an inch to actually clear the sub but that's the general idea that I have. I am thinking that 1" thick MDF will be good enough since those are 1" dowels.

But maybe MDF isn't as good for bracing as oak dowels.

 
Why not just use some 2x4's? Save yourself from stressing over trying to make something look good. I can see your point but might be overthinking it.

Or as you said 1" mdf strips, and either double it or triple them.

 
Correct me if I am wrong but wouldnt you want your bracing to go from front to back instead of side to side ? Also box dont look that big to need that much bracing ? I am thinking double baffle would give you the stiffness you need and not loose internal volume. If you still want to use dowells and you have a drill press you could use a hole saw the diameter of your dowell to drill through dowell and give you correct half radius to match up to uprights and glue them in place.

 
Correct me if I am wrong but wouldnt you want your bracing to go from front to back instead of side to side ? Also box dont look that big to need that much bracing ? I am thinking double baffle would give you the stiffness you need and not loose internal volume. If you still want to use dowells and you have a drill press you could use a hole saw the diameter of your dowell to drill through dowell and give you correct half radius to match up to uprights and glue them in place.
Click to expand...
I've seen both. I've also seen bracing like what Based is talking about with a large screw or bolt thru both brace joints.....keeps them more sturdier that way.

Dowel rods aren't really ideally for very high power applications. Rather metal is because metal won't flex as much as wood will. I take that back...thicker dowel rounds might be enough, if it's secured good and tight.

 
I've seen both. I've also seen bracing like what Based is talking about with a large screw or bolt thru both brace joints.....keeps them more sturdier that way.
Dowel rods aren't really ideally for very high power applications. Rather metal is because metal won't flex as much as wood will. I take that back...thicker dowel rounds might be enough, if it's secured good and tight.
Click to expand...
I agree on just screwing them together being stronger. That size box, if built correctly will not have much flex if any, so probably not a deal breaker either way.

 
The box is 2 cubes net. 18x20.5x14 outside. I read that it's good practice to brace about every 7 inches. I rather build the box once and over engineer it than build it and see later that I should've just braced it better.

 
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Based

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