Choosing a battery

cbuts
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
Hey guys so I'm going to be adding a second battery, but I'm unsure of what to pick, I'm also am in Canada so want to compare aswell just not sure what I should be looking for .

High cca and amp hours or minutes ?

I know it's all over the place but I need it dumbed down lol.

I currently have a red top I'm using and would like to continue using .

I want a GOOD battery that will let me do future upgrades aswell ?

Thanks

 
Should I just get a yellow top locally for 279? Not really sure what to look for haha
Ouch. I saw some Group 34 size yellow tops under 200$ on Amazon last week. Do you guys really pay that much more for stuff up there?

Personally I'd find a parts store's premium brand AGM with 3 or 4 year warranty. IMO being able to get over-the-counter warranty is well worth buying local.

 
Well I literally live right beside the border, either way I'll be paying conversion rate ..

Are xs power batteries better for the same price ?

Should I just order a d3400 and drive over to pick it up and put that as my secondary ?

Not sure what to look for..most cranking amps ?

 
Many people ask this question. It's not the same as choosing an alternator where your amp draw is x amount so you need an alt with x amount of current ability. Batteries are more about time. There are alot of variables, are you going to play it key off, total amp draw, components efficiency and on and on. Also everyone has there opinion. Having said that what i find to be constant and most agree to is 55AH per 1000 watts or match total RMS wattage to the batteries max amperage flow.

 
I was told 1000 amp deep cell marine battery from Walmart for 88 dollar$, measurements are required and whether u have top or side post and my source for that info was from very reliable older guy that build boxes and installs complete systems and has over 30 of experience and own his own company he also said he noticed a difference immediately no headlight draw from system even at high volume and completely removed his capacitor and gain almost 5 more miles to Gallon on fuel economy Marine batteries discharge rate is way slower and more consistent than regular car batteries i have in the past used a diesel truck battery and never had any issues the conversation started when I told him about that my mustang 98 Gt having severe voltage drop at idle with no accessories on once I got up in volume my vehicle voltage gauge normally stays a little bit more than half way always even when ac is on but I installed a new jvc media player utilizing the factory amps because my vehicle came with the Mach 1000 system and I replaced all factory speakers with all Polk audio and I'm running 2 Rockford fosgate p3d4dvc tens in a sealed custom mdf box and it's divided in the middle so each sub has it's on air space amp I'm running a kicker zx 850.2 I'm running all 4 gauge wire and a 100 amp fuse I followed a wire diagram I got from sonic electronics and wired them down from dual 4 ohm to 2ohm stable so that my amp and subs would be at the same ohm level but every since I've I've had these new p3s I've noticed a bad battery draw and idle speed it's dropped at my peak volume limit is around 31-35 pend music and sometimes my voltage will drop below 11.9 volts I can give the a little acceleration and it'll go immediately back up to 14.6volts I bought a 180 amp alternator when I first got everything bought for the car I've even tried using all LED's to replace old bulbs that use more power than LED's because I'd heard they where way more efficient so before I got spend a hundred bucks on a new battery the in vehicle now is about 2 years old and it's a interstate battery anybody have any suggestions on how to eliminate such severe voltage drop and idle speed because I have a second vehicle a 2002 4Runner v6 limited that has a pioneer avh p4300 double din and all new door speakers components up front on the rear door I've got coaxials and in the very back I've got a soundstream rubicon 3000 on sundown 15 in a custom ported box tuned to 35 hrtz and I'm only running 8 gauge wire hot ground and speaker wire and a 60 amp fuse and I can crank it up as much as I want have the sunroof trying to come out the vehicle and have my lights and fog lights mentioned them because they are the round ones that have a 2" thick looking lens that magnifies the light and they do draw on the alt... Cause at idle I can turn them on , off and u can hear the eng pick up just a little so my question is what's the deal here I've got more equipment in the 4Runner and no battery draw noticeable at any volume with all Acc..... on and no headlight draw or fade when the bass is really heavy but my mustang having that bad off voltage drop from so little equipment I don't understand my 4 now I could see it having voltage issues simply because I haven't upgraded my wiring from 8 to 4 or actually I was told to go zero gauge since I've got a 3000 watt amp class d amp and all the other equipment so should I swap wiring in both put all the 4 gauge in the 4 runner and a 100 amp fuse and put all the 8 gauge and 60 amp fuse in the mustang???????? Help me out anyone and I'm not a novice installer I've been doing audio installation for well over 15 years but this has got me stumped !!!!! Any help would be a blessing

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 
Too much pressure, I ordered the d3400 from xs power $336 ..don't think it's really that much more then I would of spent on another battery..maybe 100? Lol..it'll be across the border Wed for me to pick up

 
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cbuts

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