Subs keep blowing - Why?

donmcgowen

Junior Member
Hi,

I've had amps and subs for over 20 years. I currently have a Hifonics Brutus BRZ1200.1 wired at 1 ohm to 10" Alpine Type R's. My problem is the subs keep blowing or stop working. I've never had this problem before. I've gone through 3 sets of subs. I started with the older version Type R that were rated at 500w rms. Wired at 1 ohm, the amp would put out 600w rms, slightly too much but I didn't have the amp turned all the way up. First set blew. I thought maybe they were just bad so I bought another set. After 4-5 months they stopped working. Then in April, I bought a set of the new Type R rated at 1000w rms. I made sure to turn the bass and gains and everything at or below halfway on the amp just to be conservative. Last month I'm listening the stereo at may half volume, and then I heard the subs just go out.

I just don't get it. I'm no audio expert, but this isn't that complicated. I am not overpowering or clipping the subs. The subs are rated to handle the power easily. The amp is not cranked up. And when they stopped, the stereo was maybe halfway turned up.

What would cause the subs to repeatedly go out. The only constant is the amp, but I can't see how the amp would cause the subs to blow. The other constant is the brand. I know you audiophiles will say that Type R's are crappy, but whatever. They should not keep blowing.

My dilemma is, do I buy another set of subs and keep this amp? I'm scared to drop another $300-400 on subs and then they blow again if there is something wrong with the amp. Has anyone heard of an amp that would do this? The subs sound good until one day they just quit.

Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I have already dropped about $1k on subs and I'm done with it. I know the Hifonics are not the best, but there people running much cheaper amps just fine. Something has to be wrong, I just don't know where or how to find the problem.

Is there a way I can test the subs to determine what is wrong with them? Like a bad coil or something else to pinpoint why they are dying.

Thanks.

 
it could be that your gain is too high producing a clipped signal to the subs. you may not hear it though. the gain should be at about 1/4-1/3 of the way up. check your boost settings as well as you may not need to use it. also if you are using an ipod/iphone or smartphone and/or using itunes for tuning that could be your issue. using compressed files or bad quality downloads are not the best options for tuning.

 
Just some more info. I am running a Kenwood, something similar to the DDX6902S. I'm running a 4x1 Hifonics amp to Infinity components up front. I think 50w rms to each speaker. Then the Brutus BRZ1200 to 2x10" Alpine Type R subs in a sealed box. All knobs like bass are set to half or less. I guess maybe my only unsure thing is the phase control. Where it's like 0 or 180 or something like that. Can't remember off the top of my head. I remember changing it to both settings and it sounded the same.

And what's interesting, the subs seem to go out at once. I suppose that makes sense if they are getting the same signal, but I would also think one would go out before the other.

 
Just some more info. I am running a Kenwood, something similar to the DDX6902S. I'm running a 4x1 Hifonics amp to Infinity components up front. I think 50w rms to each speaker. Then the Brutus BRZ1200 to 2x10" Alpine Type R subs in a sealed box. All knobs like bass are set to half or less. I guess maybe my only unsure thing is the phase control. Where it's like 0 or 180 or something like that. Can't remember off the top of my head. I remember changing it to both settings and it sounded the same.
And what's interesting, the subs seem to go out at once. I suppose that makes sense if they are getting the same signal, but I would also think one would go out before the other.
Your problem is very possibly using bass boost. I don't know why audio companies even make them because it's just a secondary gain and a gateway for distorted signal. if the main gain and boost is both up halfway it's very similar to just turning your gain all the way. I had the brz1400.1 and I know they're not that great but they do the job as long as you don't push it. Your head unit might be poorly built. I'm not familiar with yours but you don't wanna amplify low quality signal with a low quality amp. Hope you find out the cause though man.

 
Your problem is very possibly using bass boost. I don't know why audio companies even make them because it's just a secondary gain and a gateway for distorted signal. if the main gain and boost is both up halfway it's very similar to just turning your gain all the way. I had the brz1400.1 and I know they're not that great but they do the job as long as you don't push it. Your head unit might be poorly built. I'm not familiar with yours but you don't wanna amplify low quality signal with a low quality amp. Hope you find out the cause though man.
They have a purpose. It's a 40hz EQ. People don't use them right like any EQ.

 
Just some more info. I am running a Kenwood, something similar to the DDX6902S. I'm running a 4x1 Hifonics amp to Infinity components up front. I think 50w rms to each speaker. Then the Brutus BRZ1200 to 2x10" Alpine Type R subs in a sealed box. All knobs like bass are set to half or less. I guess maybe my only unsure thing is the phase control. Where it's like 0 or 180 or something like that. Can't remember off the top of my head. I remember changing it to both settings and it sounded the same.
And what's interesting, the subs seem to go out at once. I suppose that makes sense if they are getting the same signal, but I would also think one would go out before the other.
how's your electrical system looking? Just having them at below half doesnt mean you aren't clipping the living fk out of your setup.

 
The car is a 2013. New battery. The gains on the amp are about half. Bass on the stereo is at 0. Subwoofer level on stereo about 4. There is a separate knob from the amp for bass, that is also half.

If I turn this down anymore I won't be able to hear it. Ive run a 4 channel Pioneer amp with half the power and it was just as loud. I never had a problem with any other amp. I've had the Pioneer and an RF Punch 250 no problems.

Its just kind of ridiculous to have all the gain and bass set soooo low. How do I know if they are clipping? They sound fine and I'm not pushing them that hard at all. I know plenty of people run these Hifonics amps and can push them. The Type Rs should be plenty of speaker.

If this is the case I should just double the power and get a Brutus 2400 and turn the gain and bass all the way down.

 
The car is a 2013. New battery. The gains on the amp are about half. Bass on the stereo is at 0. Subwoofer level on stereo about 4. There is a separate knob from the amp for bass, that is also half.
If I turn this down anymore I won't be able to hear it. Ive run a 4 channel Pioneer amp with half the power and it was just as loud. I never had a problem with any other amp. I've had the Pioneer and an RF Punch 250 no problems.

Its just kind of ridiculous to have all the gain and bass set soooo low. How do I know if they are clipping? They sound fine and I'm not pushing them that hard at all. I know plenty of people run these Hifonics amps and can push them. The Type Rs should be plenty of speaker.

If this is the case I should just double the power and get a Brutus 2400 and turn the gain and bass all the way down.

Amp settings should be

Bass boost set at ZERO

gain needs to match you HU Rca output which will be anywhere from 1/4 gain-3/4gain

LPF should be around 80hz

I suggest you YouTube how to set your gains clean.

 
The car is a 2013. New battery. The gains on the amp are about half. Bass on the stereo is at 0. Subwoofer level on stereo about 4. There is a separate knob from the amp for bass, that is also half.
If I turn this down anymore I won't be able to hear it. Ive run a 4 channel Pioneer amp with half the power and it was just as loud. I never had a problem with any other amp. I've had the Pioneer and an RF Punch 250 no problems.

Its just kind of ridiculous to have all the gain and bass set soooo low. How do I know if they are clipping? They sound fine and I'm not pushing them that hard at all. I know plenty of people run these Hifonics amps and can push them. The Type Rs should be plenty of speaker.

If this is the case I should just double the power and get a Brutus 2400 and turn the gain and bass all the way down.
blown subs are a direct result of clipping, Its not the sub not handling the power, its because you've clipped without even knowing. This is completely your fault, hard to swallow but yes you had improper settings along with too much expectations which led to the sub blowing.

sub level up higher, volume on the head unit about 75%-85% only knob you should even touch is the gain knob on the amp. Every other knob especially the bass knob on the amp should be left alone. Low pass filter all the way to 250 this turns it off, you should have the low pass filter used on the head unit instead at 80hz. Bass knob on the amp is a bass boost put that to ZERO. phase leave it at 0.

Sounds like you subwoofer enclosure game is not on point at all either. A properly designed box custom made to fit the subwoofer's electromechanical parameters and your vehicle cabin gain is crucial to getting proper output. If you got a pre-made box or some random specc'd supposedly custom box, you will get dissapointment all the time.

If you have smaller amps that get just as loud that means your electrical system is sh*t and can only realistically support those smaller amps, not your current amp. the amp you have is just a budget amp meaning they need a lot of alternator and 2ndary battery power and big 3 upgrades etc to even make the power they claim or else its garbage dirty power. they need 14.8 volts constant to shine. If they see 13.8 volts or less, their power output drops considerably.

I'd stay away from hifonics junk for your next amp choice. Get a twisted sounds 1.8k instead if you want to brute force your way with power. You'll need every other electrical upgrade i've listed as well

The better route is to get a nice efficient enclosure and a good sub. Type Rs are extremely mediocre subs IMO. you can do soo much better.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com is where the heavy hitters are at. Along with FI car audio, Digital designs, etc...

 
Thanks Jeff. I'm OK with admitting if it's my fault. I just want to make sure its not something with the amp. I've just never had this problem before and never thought tuning the amp would be so critical. I've know many people to just buy some parts and throw them in and they don't have this many problems. I'm not trying to get crazy power, just a decent system for a decent price.

 
Thanks Jeff. I'm OK with admitting if it's my fault. I just want to make sure its not something with the amp. I've just never had this problem before and never thought tuning the amp would be so critical. I've know many people to just buy some parts and throw them in and they don't have this many problems. I'm not trying to get crazy power, just a decent system for a decent price.
probably because their car's electrical system doesnt need as much amperage to run the car leaving them with a lot more amperage to power accessories like car audio. Thats just how important your electrical system is and newbies do not have any grasp of that.

 
just double check you sub wiring.

if you have one sub or one coil wired out of phase always it will kill subs fast.

but also do everything jeff said //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
just double check you sub wiring.
if you have one sub or one coil wired out of phase always it will kill subs fast.

but also do everything jeff said //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I would think and the OP as well if his subs were moving like crazy but no bass he'd notice and possibly create a thread stating subs moving like crazy but getting no bass.

 
Ill take everyone's word that its clipping. The subs sounded fine, I watched them and they didn't act crazy, no crackling.

Anyway, I bought a set of cheap subs. I will do what Jeff recommend to tune the amp. If I get them working without blowing, I will invest in some better subs.

In all honesty, I really can't tell the difference in quality. Im not an audiophile. I just like to have good bass for the kick drum when Im listening to Slipknot or whatever.

Thanks for all your help. I never realized how touchy amps could be. Maybe its because Im now in the 1200w rms range when all my older stuff was 500w rms amps. Who knows.

 
It's worth checking that your not getting DC output through the sub. Measure dc voltage at the output with the headunit and amp turned on with no music playing.

 
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