Ground location suggestions - photos included

kero48

The World Is Flat
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Gentlemen,

A friend of mine helped me install my sundown e8 ver.4 sub which is paired to a JL Audio e1400d amp.

Please keep in mind that the gain has not yet been set by dmm yet was set temporarily by ear, I would say the gain is about at 60% give or take.

With all H/U settings and amp settings set properly (other than gain) the sub was barely noticeable until I hit at least 20 on my H/U. I would barely move even at that volume. Almost no air movement out of the slotted port.

I am a little confused though, the subwoofer #2 setting on the H/U is set to 80 +2 (I never understood what the number after the 80 is) the manual says the output level is -24 to +6. I don't know if this setting has anything to do with the lack of performance on the sub.

Oh, 4 gauge power wire feeding the amp with an in-line mini ANL 40 amp fuse as recommended by the JL audio manual.

I called sundown audio as videos I have seen running similar power, this little sundown e8 really does it thing. Even the video on their own website shows the same sub running at 320 rms and it's really banging. My amp is rated at 400rms at 2ohms. I think the amp I have is pretty decent for the sub it's running.

Sundown asked where my ground was (as I advised the amp felt very warm the other day) and I advised my friend installed the ground on the rear deck. They advised it's a bad place for the ground and even worse it's not contacting bare metal as it's installed over paint. From my research I have also read the location and install method is not good. Pic below of the ground location before I removed it today. I actually also disconnected the power to the amp until I can get this sorted.



I took a pic of my car with the back seat cushion removed as I read a good place is where the seat belts bolt to the body of the car. You can't see the bolts to good in the photo but any suggestions based on the photo of where to put the ground? The ground will also be 4 gauge wire.



And just a quick photo of the amp, sub and enclosure //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif (sorry my trunk is a mess)



Thanks for the help

 
Where it's at is bad! No paint scraped off?????
Seatbelt bolts are usually fine, but sand all the paint off to bare metal!!
I hope you didn't do that with your setup.

I assume this is a unibody car. Strut tower would be good. Grind all paint to shiny metal. After installed check to make sure it's working. Then paint over it. You can also test conductivity with a dmm to see if it's a good ground.

 
I hope you didn't do that with your setup.
I assume this is a unibody car. Strut tower would be good. Grind all paint to shiny metal. After installed check to make sure it's working. Then paint over it. You can also test conductivity with a dmm to see if it's a good ground.
Seatbelt bolt ground? Yes I have my mids/highs amp grounded there with no issues. It's fine for small things.

My sub amp is a whole other beast. I have that grounded straight to the battery bank and the battery bank is grounded directly to the alternator case with a dedicated ground wire.

 
Seatbelt bolt ground? Yes I have my mids/highs amp grounded there with no issues. It's fine for small things.
My sub amp is a whole other beast. I have that grounded straight to the battery bank and the battery bank is grounded directly to the alternator case with a dedicated ground wire.
Grounding to the alt case is not the best to do.. You add more resistance to the engine electrical flow.. Better off grounding it to a dedicated ground or ground to bank and add extra grounds to main battery.

Sent from my draconis using Tapatalk

 
Gents, the car is a 2000 Subaru 2.5rs otherwise known as a GC.

I have no clue if it's unibody or not lol

I will try and check out the rear strut tower tomorrow. Can I use an existing mounting point if I see one or do I have to use a self taping screw after sanding cleaning and exposing nice shiny metal.

Do you think in your opinions that was part of the problem, we know it surely can't hurt.

This E8 ver.4 (300 watt rms) should should be performing pretty darn good with the amp I have so I am keeping my fingers crossed. The temp sub I had (lent to me by same friend, audiopipe APPB-12ET) in it's place with the same amp worked pretty well for what it was and it hit decently hard. That sub was running on 10ga wire.

We went to all 4ga wire and I can't get this sub to really provide much bass unless I turn the volume way up and at that point the temp sub was hitting very well. The audiopipe even on low volume gave decent bass.

I know there is a difference in size but the sundown E8 should really be moving, no?

 
Grounding to the alt case is not the best to do.. You add more resistance to the engine electrical flow.. Better off grounding it to a dedicated ground or ground to bank and add extra grounds to main battery.
Sent from my draconis using Tapatalk
Explain yourself more.

I have the starter battery up front charged by just the stock alternator. That runs all the stock electrical for my truck.

I have a second alternator that's 370 amps. This is only connected to the battery bank in the back. Nothing up front. It is however grounded to the engine block via the custom bracket.

You can't possibly tell me there's a better spot to ground my battery bank than the alternator case. I'm using 2/0 (more like 4/0) OFC wire that can carry 600 amps for a 20ft length (my run is only 10ft or so).

 
Explain yourself more.
I have the starter battery up front charged by just the stock alternator. That runs all the stock electrical for my truck.

I have a second alternator that's 370 amps. This is only connected to the battery bank in the back. Nothing up front. It is however grounded to the engine block via the custom bracket.

You can't possibly tell me there's a better spot to ground my battery bank than the alternator case. I'm using 2/0 (more like 4/0) OFC wire that can carry 600 amps for a 20ft length (my run is only 10ft or so).
Do you realize why our engines have to be grounded?

Grounding batteries straight to engine aka alt bracket leaves all the flow in the engine.

You have to account for the flow and add more grounds to the frame or battery from the engine..

Sent from my draconis using Tapatalk

 
Do you realize why our engines have to be grounded?
Grounding batteries straight to engine aka alt bracket leaves all the flow in the engine.

You have to account for the flow and add more grounds to the frame or battery from the engine..

Sent from my draconis using Tapatalk
What do you mean by "all the flow in the engine"? lol

What is this mystical "flow" you speak of????

 
Do you realize why our engines have to be grounded?
Grounding batteries straight to engine aka alt bracket leaves all the flow in the engine.

You have to account for the flow and add more grounds to the frame or battery from the engine..

Sent from my draconis using Tapatalk
>wat.jpeg

 
What do you mean by "all the flow in the engine"? lol
What is this mystical "flow" you speak of????
>wat.jpeg
..... So we all should ground straight to the engine and not engine to battery right?

I mean common now our little rubber mounts on the engine grounds the engine so good.

Somehow i must of not realized this sooner!

Sent from my draconis using Tapatalk

 
..... So we all should ground straight to the engine and not engine to battery right?
I mean common now our little rubber mounts on the engine grounds the engine so good.

Somehow i must of not realized this sooner!

Sent from my draconis using Tapatalk
Don't know if trolling or drunk o_O

I have 3 grounds going to the battery from the engine, alternator, and frame. Each seperate

 
Gents, the car is a 2000 Subaru 2.5rs otherwise known as a GC.
I have no clue if it's unibody or not lol

I will try and check out the rear strut tower tomorrow. Can I use an existing mounting point if I see one or do I have to use a self taping screw after sanding cleaning and exposing nice shiny metal.

Do you think in your opinions that was part of the problem, we know it surely can't hurt.

This E8 ver.4 (300 watt rms) should should be performing pretty darn good with the amp I have so I am keeping my fingers crossed. The temp sub I had (lent to me by same friend, audiopipe APPB-12ET) in it's place with the same amp worked pretty well for what it was and it hit decently hard. That sub was running on 10ga wire.

We went to all 4ga wire and I can't get this sub to really provide much bass unless I turn the volume way up and at that point the temp sub was hitting very well. The audiopipe even on low volume gave decent bass.

I know there is a difference in size but the sundown E8 should really be moving, no?


I googled your car. According to the interwebz they DO have a frame. You should ground to frame for the best connection after grinding to shiny metal. Also how are your settings set? Maybe gain is a little high?

When I got a new amp I thought it was a little hot. It doesn't have a fan so I added one but I was told that's how this amp is. He'll my amp gets hotter just sitting in my truck in texas than it does playing lol.

 
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kero48

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