5.25" vs 6.5" components? Any difference?

6.5 will have a touch more output. Right at that fine line of noticeable

The 6.5 will not only be louder at the same power but will also (most likely) have a lower FS so it will play lower and blend better with your sub. The extra cone area and lower response will be critical to midbass output...If given a choice between the two systems definitely go with the 6.5's....especially if you're not running a dedicated midbass driver(s).

Question?

So, if 5.25" door speakers have different frequency response, or plays mid bass better, why doesn't the sub size change sound? I understand that a larger area will move more air and make it louder, but why not deeper as the bigger area of the door speaker gives you more mid bass.

Or is it because all subs are capable of the frequencies? and in that case, wouldn't a 15" sub be able to handle low bass better than say a 8" sub? And wouldn't the 8" sub have an easier time with high bass?

I've been told that the size doesn't matter :naughty:, but not a real definitive answer as to why.
Sorry for sounding like a broken record on this, I'm just not good at accepting information without supporting evidence. Anyone have a good link I could read?

Sorry @EFD307 for jacking your thread, its just a somewhat related question.

As a very general guideline, large and heavy is easier to move slowly (low frequencies). Small and light is easier to move at high frequencies. There is some overlap as you move from a 1/2" tweeter to a 3" midrange to a 6.5" to 10" to 18" sub. But there is no usable overlap between the extremes, like a 1" tweeter in the door and a 15" sub in the cargo area.

3" AND 1" can play high frequencies, but the 1" is better suited. 8" and 18" can play lows, but the 18" is better suited. (All things being equal)

CHAD

[quote name='tommymilan311']Question?

So, if 5.25" door speakers have different frequency response, or plays mid bass better, why doesn't the sub size change sound? I understand that a larger area will move more air and make it louder, but why not deeper as the bigger area of the door speaker gives you more mid bass.

Or is it because all subs are capable of the frequencies? and in that case, wouldn't a 15" sub be able to handle low bass better than say a 8" sub? And wouldn't the 8" sub have an easier time with high bass?

I've been told that the size doesn't matter :naughty:, but not a real definitive answer as to why.
Sorry for sounding like a broken record on this, I'm just not good at accepting information without supporting evidence. Anyone have a good link I could read?

Sorry @EFD307 for jacking your thread, its just a somewhat related question.[/QUOTE]

It's not that it can't play the same frequencies. It's the amount of output at every frequency. Our hearing is more sensitive as frequencys increase.

Example- if you have 150db of sub bass you only need 120db or so of higher frequencies to blend with it.

It's not that it can't play the same frequencies. It's the amount of output at every frequency. Our hearing is more sensitive as frequencys increase.
Example- if you have 150db of sub bass you only need 120db or so of higher frequencies to blend with it.

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Okay, so they don't sound the same, they sound similar. I guess that is evident as my Type-R is a 10" and tuning volume is 35Hz, the 12" were 32Hz

Okay, so they don't sound the same, they sound similar. I guess that is evident as my Type-R is a 10" and tuning volume is 35Hz, the 12" were 32Hz

Click to expand...

They sound the same. When we start talking about mainstream stuff the myth becomes more truth. They under build small drivers.

Look at the "good stuff". Motors are the same across the model line. Mainstream will put weaker motors on smaller drivers.

Ideally the best midrange is a 3.5 because of a thing called beaming. Ideally you will have a dedicated mid bass for the 3.5.

They sound the same. When we start talking about mainstream stuff the myth becomes more truth. They under build small drivers. Look at the "good stuff". Motors are the same across the model line. Mainstream will put weaker motors on smaller drivers.

Ideally the best midrange is a 3.5 because of a thing called beaming. Ideally you will have a dedicated mid bass for the 3.5.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I'll make due with what I have, but I think I'm going to move onto something else in the future. I'm very pleased with my R components, but the sub... meh. I'm going to do my sound deadening and my processing, see where that gets me. Then probably get a 2-3Kw RMS Amps to cleanly power the 2 subs at 1 ohm. With research, my amps is only 800w "stable" at 1 ohm, per reviews. I got everything turned down to keep it as clean as possible, SW level = -5, 40Hz = -3Db, 80Hz = -2Db. It sounds clean at about 1500W(no clamp rating) from the amps, but I haven't scoped it sense adding a second sub, the amp stays cool to the touch. I just know it isn't as loud as it could be, I don't wanna blow my speakers from clipping.

Yeah, I'll make due with what I have, but I think I'm going to move onto something else in the future. I'm very pleased with my R components, but the sub... meh. I'm going to do my sound deadening and my processing, see where that gets me. Then probably get a 2-3Kw RMS Amps to cleanly power the 2 subs at 1 ohm. With research, my amps is only 800w "stable" at 1 ohm, per reviews. I got everything turned down to keep it as clean as possible, SW level = -5, 40Hz = -3Db, 80Hz = -2Db. It sounds clean at about 1500W(no clamp rating) from the amps, but I haven't scoped it sense adding a second sub, the amp stays cool to the touch. I just know it isn't as loud as it could be, I don't wanna blow my speakers from clipping.

Click to expand...

Having more power than you need is always a good thing. I have about 1000 watts total headroom but some people go crazy with it.

Something else is RMS rating. That's a thermal or mechanical meltdown over a extended period of time.

You don't need to run RMS to anything if it's built right, it will do what it needs to do no matter the power.

They sound the same. When we start talking about mainstream stuff the myth becomes more truth. They under build small drivers. Look at the "good stuff". Motors are the same across the model line. Mainstream will put weaker motors on smaller drivers.

Ideally the best midrange is a 3.5 because of a thing called beaming. Ideally you will have a dedicated mid bass for the 3.5.

Click to expand...

Care to explain beaming?

Care to explain beaming?

Click to expand...

It's when a speaker of given size hits a certain frequency the wide dispersion will become very narrow. Typical 6.5s commonly do it around 2200hz. Different cone shapes can move it higher. Like the Hertz cones.

It gets nuked to much IMO.

We care about the lower end of the usable frequency range on our midbass or midrange speakers because they should not be crossed below Fs, or the resonant frequency, if you care about sound quality. Just because a 6.5" speaker, for example, can play 30 Hz doesn't mean it should ever be tasked to play that low in a vehicle when that is the job of a subwoofer. We have to play subs below Fs but our hearing is much, much more tolerant of distortion from bass than midbass on up.