Please Help Me Design a Center Console Box for a Minivan

Umbra

Hobbyist & CA Tenderfoot
I've been looking forward to this project for some time and it's finally time to break ground. Granted it's a small, low budget project compared to the norm here, but I'm still excited.

I'll be driving around a minivan for a couple months (I know, I'm just glad it seats seven, given all the tail it's bound to pull). It's old - the stock speakers are shot and only a few buttons on the HU still work after the windows were left open when it was pouring out. I don't mind driving it, but I'm going to throw some of the CA stuff I picked up last year into it. I've got a few amps, some speakers, a couple barely passable head units, speaker wire, misc. wire accessories and a BNIB 8" MA Audio MA800XL sub I found on CL. I know, super exciting. It's a minivan so it's tempting to go nuts and fill 'er up with a huge box and some 15"s, but A) I'm only going to be using it for a short time, B) I'll occasionally need the space for passengers and/or large cargo, and C) I've already got most of what's needed. So I figure I'll just utilize the empty space between the front seats for a bit of bump. All I need is a wiring harness, power wire, a distro block, a box, and maybe some misc. mounting hardware and I'm good to go. That's the plan anyway.

The only problem is the box. I have the tools to build a box. I can build a box. I built one last year to great success, but it was a sealed box in a trunk. For this build I'd like to try a different design, pretty much anything but sealed (I think I have the space). I should probably keep it relatively simple with a ported box. The problem is I've never built a ported box. I have a couple pictures, measurements of the space and sub, and the T/S parameters as per the manual to illustrate what I'm working with.

tumblr_np1hj2dHNV1r153evo1_1280.jpg


tumblr_np1hj2dHNV1r153evo2_1280.jpg


T/S Parameters - MA800XL

Fo (Hz) - 30.33

QMS - 3.83

QES - 0.24

QTS - 0.23

VAS (Liters) - 18.06

REVC (Ohms) Parallel - 1.5

SPL @ 1W/1(dB) - 84.99

X-Max Linear pk-pk (mm) - 24

LEVC @ 1k Hz (mH) - 1.15

Sealed Enclosure

Minimum sealed (Cu. Feet) - 0.25

Fill Required (%) - No

3dB down point (-3dB Hz) - 108

Maximum sealed (Cu. Feet) - 0.5

Fill Required (%) - No

3dB down point (-3dB Hz) - 117

Ported Enclosure

Vented (Cubic Feet) - 1

Vented to (Hz) - 55

3dB down point (-3dB Hz) - 46

Port Diameter (inches) - 3

Port Length (inches) - 9

Number of ports - 2

Square Port Info

Port Area (square inches) - 14

Port length (inches) - 9

---------------------------------------------------------

I'd like to retain the use of the cup holder tray, but I can live if the box ultimately interferes with it. I'd also like to keep the box in the front, so as not to interfere too much with the area for the next row of passengers. The only concrete requirement is that is it doesn't impede the use of the e-brake. I think given the space I should be able to able to put something ported together. If I could leave some room towards the back to maybe stick the amps, or have it tall enough at the front to mount the amps on the sides that would be icing on the cake.

I have four questions I can call to mind:

1) If I were to build a ported box, where should the port be aimed for maximum effectiveness?

2) If I were to build a ported box, which way should the subwoofer cone face for maximum effectiveness?

3) The manual gives a build for a 55Hz tuning. Would it be unwise to tune lower if it better suits my musical preferences?

4) I'll probably use MDF. What thickness would be appropriate? I used 3/4" last time, I'm thinking that might be overkill here.

To expand on the tuning question: I listen to a variety of genres, but the most bass prevalent are Decaf's bass-boosted remixes, dubstep, rap, hip-hop - that kind of stuff. If I have to choose one range to focus on with a ported box it would be the low end. It'll only be for music, no burps or anything like that. The T/S parameters state the Fo is 30.33, is this the lowest note it can accurately reproduce? Again, I've never made a ported box, so I don't know what range to aim for. Some of the Decaf stuff dips into the 20s (a couple even south of that). I conscientiously avoid his songs that go below what the sub was designed to play. That being said, what's a good frequency to tune to? Something in the 30-40 range?

I apologize for including so much information, but I figure if anyone is able to help they'd have an easier time if they had all the important info upfront. I know this probably won't be addressed in one response, but I'm excited about this project, so I'll be checking in regularly, and if I end up with a usable design I'll be sure to post pictures. A design put together by someone competent would be great, but I really like learning about this stuff, so if a few kind souls could help me along the path I'd be so grateful.

 
I've experimented with center console subs and downfiring was the clear winner. Down-fire both sub and port. Further front is best, closest to a large cabin boundary.
Thanks for the input. I stepped away to address some other things, but I'm back to proceed with this build.

I'm envisioning a rectangular box with slot port (possibly aero) flipped so both are facing down. How do I build it up to allow clearance between the box and the floor? I figure if I make the side longer to lift up the box it's sort of like lengthening one side of the port, which I'd imagine would affect tuning. Also, is there a rule of thumb for distance, or should I just stack books under it until I think it sounds good, then make something more permanent?

The spec sheet from the manual details a 55 Hz tuned box. Is this just a recommendation? Can you put a sub in any frequency box according to your musical tastes? One last thing, is there any way to tell how low a sub can play (unless it's listed in the spec sheet)? I found a youtube video with this sub in a T-line enclosure doing a 25 Hz test. Not that I want to play crazy low music all the time, but I'd like to know if there's a cutoff where lower notes could be damaging to the sub.

I quoted you, KHA, because you're very knowledgeable, but I don't mean to put you on the spot. Anyone is welcome to chime in.

 
Thanks for the input. I stepped away to address some other things, but I'm back to proceed with this build.
I'm envisioning a rectangular box with slot port (possibly aero) flipped so both are facing down. How do I build it up to allow clearance between the box and the floor? I figure if I make the side longer to lift up the box it's sort of like lengthening one side of the port, which I'd imagine would affect tuning. Also, is there a rule of thumb for distance, or should I just stack books under it until I think it sounds good, then make something more permanent?

The spec sheet from the manual details a 55 Hz tuned box. Is this just a recommendation? Can you put a sub in any frequency box according to your musical tastes? One last thing, is there any way to tell how low a sub can play (unless it's listed in the spec sheet)? I found a youtube video with this sub in a T-line enclosure doing a 25 Hz test. Not that I want to play crazy low music all the time, but I'd like to know if there's a cutoff where lower notes could be damaging to the sub.

I quoted you, KHA, because you're very knowledgeable, but I don't mean to put you on the spot. Anyone is welcome to chime in.
55hz is to high I would shoot for 36-38hz I like the way down fire sounds for sure it seems to me port to the rear would sound pretty good I think with the port pointed down it might affect the tuning.

 
I made feet to support the box to keep it a few inches from the floor and the feet also acted as points to secure the box to the transmission hump.

tundrabox002.jpg


tundrabox005.jpg


tundrabox012.jpg


55Hz is pretty high, maybe you chose the wrong sub for a vented enclosure. You want to run an infrasonic filter (aka SSF) set a few Hz below the tuning frequency to protect the sub. in a sealed box you don't need an SSF.

 
I made feet to support the box to keep it a few inches from the floor and the feet also acted as points to secure the box to the transmission hump.
tundrabox002.jpg


tundrabox005.jpg


tundrabox012.jpg


55Hz is pretty high, maybe you chose the wrong sub for a vented enclosure. You want to run an infrasonic filter (aka SSF) set a few Hz below the tuning frequency to protect the sub. in a sealed box you don't need an SSF.
I didn't pick out the sub for the application, I just had it on hand. If it's no good I could seal it or maybe buy a different one. I also have a pair of 8 ohm 10s, but I don't see a way to stick them in this area without building vertically up above the seats, which I'm not above doing.

I think I know the answer, but just to make sure: will a pair of 10" RF P2s outperform this 8" in a ported box on the same power? The main drawback is the cones would have to be up above the seat because I don't think I can squeeze them in otherwise. The only other option is motor to motor with the cones facing the driver and passenger's feet respectively, but even with inverted phase on one it's far from ideal.

Thanks for the visual aid, though I'm still trying to figure out how to do the feet with a slot port at the end of the box. It seems on these boxes one of the sides of the box also acts as a port wall. If I were to extend this side to lift the box up, it would also lengthen the port outside the box. I don't need the specifics, but this will probably skew the tuning, right? Should I reduce the port height (length? the longer measurement at the opening) to add feet above and below it, design it so the opening isn't all the way at the edge, or move two of the feet towards the center and away from the port, but altering the center of gravity?

It's FWD so I don't have a hump to deal with, so I'm either going to bolt some feet down somehow or, if I can get enough surface area flush with the floor, use some heavy duty velcro.

 
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Always aim for optimal enclosures, even if it means fewer subs.
Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Sage words.

I can perseverate on this forever, but it'll be a lot more fun to actually do something. I'll do the eight in a slotted port enclosure. I've never done one before, so that's the deciding factor.

On an unrelated note: I know you've used multiple materials to cover the access holes in your doors including treated MDF and sheet metal. Do you have a preference one way or the other?

This is probably what I'm going to be patching up: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/general-discussion/617857-should-i-box-my-rear-6x9s.html That's the side door. The rear speakers will either go in there or in a box. The front isn't as bad, but the front speakers are definitely going in the door and I'll be taking advice from your build logs.

 
my favorite door sealing solution was on the 2005 tC - aluminum sheet metal with 100% deadener on both sides, CCF on one side, screwed to the door.
Thanks! I did that last summer with great results. I just wanted to see if that was still a good option.

 
The proximity to the floor is going to lower your tuning some.. I'd shoot for a 38hz tune or so on paper, in the real world it'll probably end up closer to 35hz. Subs up front dont' seem to get quite as much gain as fully in the rear where they can get fully reinforced modal response from the car, and being a single 8 it's only going to move so much air anways.. You can set the SSF at 30hz and probably be ok with 12mm xmax to go a bit under tuning. I havent' modelled it yet though, that's just at cursory glance and generally what works for MOST 8's.

 
The proximity to the floor is going to lower your tuning some.. I'd shoot for a 38hz tune or so on paper, in the real world it'll probably end up closer to 35hz. Subs up front dont' seem to get quite as much gain as fully in the rear where they can get fully reinforced modal response from the car, and being a single 8 it's only going to move so much air anways.. You can set the SSF at 30hz and probably be ok with 12mm xmax to go a bit under tuning. I havent' modelled it yet though, that's just at cursory glance and generally what works for MOST 8's.
Thanks for the suggestion, I would have never thought of that. I did some more reading and read why the frequency drops, but I can't find the material now. Something to do with loading and that it acts like the port was lengthened.

Unfortunately The amp I'd planned on using only had three SSF settings, 25Hz, 15Hz, and Off. I can't set it to 30Hz, but 25 will have to do.

I picked up a 4' x 8' sheet of MDF tonight (for this and some other projects) and while I'm super excited to just build the **** thing already it seems like I have more research to do.

 
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Umbra

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