Wiring Question From Subwoofer to Amplifier if Enclosure has divided sections for Sub

I assume the part that's throwing you is there are two sets of terminals on the box. All that changes is when wiring the subs together, this now done outside the enclosure. If the subs are DVC (though the ones you linked are not) you'd wire each sub's voice coils in series or parallel within the enclose, then wires all the subs in series or parallel outside of it.
With two SVC 4ohm subs you can wire the pair to 8 or 2 ohms. If there are only two terminals on the sub, wire the +s to the +s and the -s to the -s for the inernal box terminals, so you're basically just accessing the sub terminals from outside the box when they're wired up.

Then to get a 2 ohm load, wire it in parallel. Both + terminals on the box get wired to the + on the amp, same with the - terminals. Whether you daisy chain the connections so there's two wires at the amp, or you wire each terminal individually so there's four from the amp, so long as all the positives are together and all the negatives are together, you should be in business.

If the amp is a monoblock there's there's only one output circuit. If there are four terminals, both +s go to the same place (same for the -s); there are four for wiring convenience.

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So you're saying since I can't wire it together inside the box, I can wire it together outside the box and just bunnyhop it or (daisy chain)? Then you said whether I have two or four wires at the end as long as the wires are in the correct terminal + or -, It will still be good?

I drew this out, Let me know if it's correct and Let me know if that wiring will be 2ohms? OR is that considered 4ohm and will that only be 400 watts RMS per speaker?

Exactly.
That's perfect. That should be a 2 ohm final load, which would be 800W RMS with that amp (at least according to Hifonics).

That 800W is divided amongst the subs, which in this case is 2.

Alternatively:

This is what I meant by daisy chaining

800/2 = 400W RMS, which is what each of those subs is rated for and what they'll each receive with this configuration.

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Awesome, Thank you SO SO SO much! That's exactly what I needed to know! So EITHER your wiring diagram OR mine will be corrrect for 2 ohms. I'll just see with my trunk which looks nicer and is easier to conceal the wires.

This is the best price I could find with this amp and sub combo. Do you think I should buy a battery or is my stock batter enough for this substage+my front stage?

I was planning on getting a Kinetik hc600 because I originally had a huge battery and that's what my amps were ground to, and powered to. But now that I don't have a battery anymore, I would either have to ground both amps to the chassis, or spend another $50 on this battery. What would you recommend?

Anytime.
I think you'll be fine. If it's ~1000W RMS total, most stock electrical can handle that.

I definitely wouldn't buy a new, improved battery. Only If you're getting a new battery anyway would I suggest spending a little more on something better suited for car audio.

Make sure the amp grounds are bolted to unpainted chassis (that may involve grinding off paint). For 800W RMS you're looking at 4 gauge CCA minimum (might as well get the OFC for a bit more). I'd highly recommend Knukoncepts if you don't already have wire. They're wiring kits are good. The RCA's are pretty barebones and the remote wire is integrated into it, but depending on your setup you can probably chain the remote and RCAs from the other amp.

If you're looking to spend money on the electrical, invest in the big 3 upgrade under the hood first.

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I already have the big 3 upgrade under the hood. And Yeah, I still have my 4G wires from my other setup. I kept all my wires, RCA, Remote Wire, Power Wire, Ground Wire. It's all just hanging in my truck with nothing to bolt to XD. The remote wire though is daisy chained to my frontstage amp. I only sold my speaker wire, but I think those were 14 or 16G? So I would just have to buy those speaker wires and since those are thin, those are pretty inexpensive as well. What gauge speaker wire do you recommend so that it'll be much easier to daisy chain into one terminal?

I don't think it matters all that much. I've read you only need 14 gauge in run in excess of 50', which I doubt anyone has in their car, especially from amp to sub box, but the article did not go into power.
You could probably stuff even 2x 12 gauge wires into the amp terminals - not sure about the box ones, though. You don't have to chain them if you do what you detailed in the first drawing. You could even run each wire to its own terminal on the amp if there's two for each polarity (4 speaker terminals for a monoblock).

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Hey Umbra! I have a question for you. Someone sent this to me on another post saying that my 1st wiring diagram that I showed you; where it is daisy chained onto the amp terminals, saying that it's bad. Can you confirm this? If he's right, in this case, I'll just choose the diagram you showed me where i'll just daisy chain it on the outer speaker terminal rather than the amp terminals.

If you do a direct connect to the amp then it will try and force the amp to give out unstable ohm loads.Follow this image

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I also don't think he realized that my enclosure has divided sections for each sub.

I'm not an electrical engineer, but I can tell you this much: I too have a two chamber divided enclosure and a multimeter. There are two sets of terminals on the outside, just like yours and I have it wired like the first diagram - all positives together, all negatives together and the wires meet at the amp terminals. When I slap a multimeter to it to check for impedance, I get just south of 4 ohms (right where I want to be at). I've been running it like this for over a year (oftentimes at full tilt) with no issue whatsoever.
I'm fairly sure, from a electrical engineering standpoint, they're the same circuit. Do whichever you're more comfortable with.

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Well I finally received my amp! Apparently the Hifonics BRX1100.1D mono block amplifier has two channels, not one ( like a mono block would have ) -_-

Now with that said, since there are two channels, I "assuming" should be okay with just wiring the subs as 4 ohms as they are intended and just + and - wires straight from the subwoofers to the back terminals of the enclosure and directly to each of their own designated channel to I would get 400w RMS @ 4 ohms per sub. Correct? I would not have to worry about daisy chaining down to 2 ohms.

If this is your amp it's a single channel amp. There are two positive and two negative terminals, but both positives go to the same place and both negatives go to the same place. They give you four terminals so you can fit the wires on there better.
If you had a wire coming from each of the box terminals and stuck the other end into the 4 corresponding terminals on the amp it would be the same as twisting the positives and negatives (respectively) together and putting the pairs in only one amp terminal. The two pictures we made earlier and what you just detailed are ultimately all the same. The amp sees a 2 ohm load and puts out 800W RMS. This is divided between two subs, so each receives 400W RMS.

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Oh okay I get it, I see why they put those two extra terminals in my amp. Well I instead of daisy chaining, I just put the wires in each of their own terminal respectively just because it's neater and less of a hassle. And I try to set my gains and to see if my subwoofers work, and they don't! I know what to set my gains to. Voltage goes from 9V-0.2V And my preout voltage on my Head Unit is 4V so I wanted to put it around there, or even higher at 7V just so I can break my subwoofers in. Subsonic is around 25hz. LPF is around 80hz. Bass Boost is at 0. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif I don't know what's wrong. I tried to turn on the gain a little bit, then a lot a bit, and nothing was coming out of my subwoofers. The amplifier is clearly on, it doesn't go into protect, the green power light is on. Everything is connected. I try to mess with the Bass EQ even just to hear any thump, and still nothing! I even try to mess with the EQ on my Head Unit and nothing! There is no output whatsoever on my subwoofers! This is extremely frustrating, it already took me three to four hours to install everything, mount it on the back of the backseats and everything and to have the subwoofers not work... I honestly don't know what went wrong. I built my old setup from scratch, and built it and put it together all by myself no problems. My old 15' was a DVC@2ohms. I wired that down to 1ohms into my monoblock amplifier. I hooked up the RCAs, Remote, Power/Ground, and speaker wires all up. I tuned it perfectly, I've had that setup for at least 3-4 years no problem ever arose. I know what I'm doing.

I tried to take some pictures, it's really late and my phone doesn't take good pictures in low light.

Any ideas as to why it's not receiving any output?



This is the side where all the knobs are, and there are two sets of RCA outputs, I put it on the left set because on the Hifonics manual that is where the "designated mono line input" is.



This is the back of my enclosure. At the back I wired them just straight to 4 ohms. I even checked with my DMM. It sits at exactly 3.8 more or less from the back of that terminal.



This is how I wired it to the amplifier.

Since the terminals look like this

- - + +

I wired the subwoofers accordingly like this (first sub wires will be P1 and second sub will be P2)

P2- P1- P2+ P1+

Should I try to daisy chain it into one set of terminals instead? I mean even if I do that, I don't think it should solve problem because right now how I have it, whether it is at 4 ohms or 2 ohms, I should still be getting output of my amplifier to my subwoofers, but I hear nothing and I feel nothing coming out. :\ I tested the amplifier with my DMM and I tested the power terminals (not the speaker terminals) and I got a 14V with the car on so that's good. Amplifier is working. There's just gotta be one small thing missing. But I don't know what!

Please anyone help! I'd rather try and fix it myself before I turn it in to an audio shop and ask them to diagnose it.

If it helps, here's the setup

HU: Pioneer Premier DEH-600UB

Subwoofers: 2 12" Kenwood KFC-W3013PS

Amplifier: Hifonics Brutus BRX1100.1D

Rear Battery: Kinetic HC600

Is the sub output on the HU turned on?

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Yes. I turned it off and back on. And nothing. I haven't changed a single thing on my HU. Even with my last setup, when I sold it, I didn't turn off anything on the HU, it was still how I last left it. I initially thought that could've been the case. With the output off, no sound. But I double checked and it's on for sure!