Ironsave
Junior Member
I'm new to the forum, but wanted to post some pics of real versus fake.
are the new version of HSK165s.....
The differences are:
The tweeter wires, like the MLK have a knurled look to the windings, the fakes are not.
Also the black sealant used is covering the whole solder joint, where on the fake, it's smaller.
The tweeter mesh is slightly larger, but thinner then the fake.
The silk dome has ridges on the fake, circular pattern.
The woofers:
Butyl surround are "fatter", and the spider is extended up a quarter inch versus the fake being flush.
The woofer travel is a much longer throw on the real.
The real speakers are about 1/4 inch taller, referring to the magnet and basket structure.
No scratchiness when pushing woofer equally down on both sides of the real.
The sticker on the magnet is more white colored on the fake.
Fake connectors are crooked and dull solder on fakes versus shiny.
The crossovers:
The real ones, all caps are not flush with the board, they are up in the air about half an inch.
The printing on the caps is smoother, not dot matrix.
The plastic is smooth, with no molding marks; small divets.
Also the printing is much larger and crooked for the woofer, input and tweeter connections on the fakes.
The coil windings are double the thickness, and the crossovers are heavier then the fakes as a result.
The packaging is a more vivid orange.
The printing on the manual is also a more vivid orange.
Overall, these are pretty good fakes, but the crossover is the dead giveaway. Mine arrived rattling, the tabs had broken off(that hold the pcb in place). On a high end set of components, this wouldn't happen.
The fake serial numbers matched on all components, but these aren't real numbers.
My real sprayed have the numbers removed, per internet sale policy from Hertz.
I will upload pics shortly.
My goal to help someone else from getting burned. (I'm in process of a refund on fakes).
My apologies to the admins, if this is wrongly posted. Please move needed, but this may help someone.
are the new version of HSK165s.....
The differences are:
The tweeter wires, like the MLK have a knurled look to the windings, the fakes are not.
Also the black sealant used is covering the whole solder joint, where on the fake, it's smaller.
The tweeter mesh is slightly larger, but thinner then the fake.
The silk dome has ridges on the fake, circular pattern.
The woofers:
Butyl surround are "fatter", and the spider is extended up a quarter inch versus the fake being flush.
The woofer travel is a much longer throw on the real.
The real speakers are about 1/4 inch taller, referring to the magnet and basket structure.
No scratchiness when pushing woofer equally down on both sides of the real.
The sticker on the magnet is more white colored on the fake.
Fake connectors are crooked and dull solder on fakes versus shiny.
The crossovers:
The real ones, all caps are not flush with the board, they are up in the air about half an inch.
The printing on the caps is smoother, not dot matrix.
The plastic is smooth, with no molding marks; small divets.
Also the printing is much larger and crooked for the woofer, input and tweeter connections on the fakes.
The coil windings are double the thickness, and the crossovers are heavier then the fakes as a result.
The packaging is a more vivid orange.
The printing on the manual is also a more vivid orange.
Overall, these are pretty good fakes, but the crossover is the dead giveaway. Mine arrived rattling, the tabs had broken off(that hold the pcb in place). On a high end set of components, this wouldn't happen.
The fake serial numbers matched on all components, but these aren't real numbers.
My real sprayed have the numbers removed, per internet sale policy from Hertz.
I will upload pics shortly.
My goal to help someone else from getting burned. (I'm in process of a refund on fakes).
My apologies to the admins, if this is wrongly posted. Please move needed, but this may help someone.
