Sound deadining

i think most people will say it is a waste for doors, i would prob do as much as u can in the trunk though, i just did 80% of doors and 95% of trunk/trunk lid and license plate

 
i think most people will say it is a waste for doors, i would prob do as much as u can in the trunk though, i just did 80% of doors and 95% of trunk/trunk lid and license plate
Yea, I think deadening the doors can improve midbass. Deadening the trunk should be done. Depending on the car, however, the rear dash that houses the rear speakers makes the most noise...at least in my car and some other sedans I've seen. Haven't found a cost effective solution for this yet //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Yea, I think deadening the doors can improve midbass. Deadening the trunk should be done. Depending on the car, however, the rear dash that houses the rear speakers makes the most noise...at least in my car and some other sedans I've seen. Haven't found a cost effective solution for this yet //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
you just need to decouple the panels from the metal and other panels in the rear deck. You do this with a layer of closed cell foam. However if the panel is already decoupled but the sound pressure is making the panels flex and warp to the point where it actually makes noise then you can use thinner CLD deadener to control the flex. However most of the times proper use of closed cell foam is the best choice.

 
How much deadener you need is relative to the power and cone area you are running. Likewise, the vehicle matters since newer cars are coming with more and more deadener. If you have a 10 with a 500 watt amp, you don't need much deadener at all but if you have four 15s and 5Kw, then you need a lot. You may even need more than one layer at 100% coverage if your intention is to squeeze every dB you can out of the setup or, just to keep panel noise to a minimum.

In simple terms, it depends on the situation.

 
My old suv was filled to the gills with dynomat. Used that brand due to a heavy discount. I did just about every panel in there and I think it was worth it.

 
I completely did my doors and it was a complete waste. Also don't use FatMat, their sticky backing leaks when it's hot out. I can only imagine the pile of black goo that's at the bottom.

 
i chalked behind and heavily around all metal to metal joints then applied 80-100% of high flex areas. 2 layers of 100% coverage on doors (inside and outside skins in one layer. 4layers trunk lid and roof behind sunroof as they were my highest flex areas and im very pleased. only used 50-80 ft^2 can't member exactly as it was 3 different apps of 3 different deadners.

 
I did 2 layers of 100% coverage with RAMMATT covered with 1-2 layers of Ensolite. Gutted every piece of the interior and covered the interior and exterior door/hatch skins, entire roof (wagon), entire floor and hatch area. The interior of all plastic panels were covered in some RAMMATT, and 1-2 layers of Ensolite. Car is so quiet it's insane.

 
I did 2 layers of 100% coverage with RAMMATT covered with 1-2 layers of Ensolite. Gutted every piece of the interior and covered the interior and exterior door/hatch skins, entire roof (wagon), entire floor and hatch area. The interior of all plastic panels were covered in some RAMMATT, and 1-2 layers of Ensolite. Car is so quiet it's insane.
Thats my plan for the next build. I bet you were at it for weeks. I cant imagine trying to get panels to fit back on after covering them in ensolite. i had to use very minimal amounts of CCF in order to get my door panel to fit back on correctly.

 

---------- Post added at 01:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:12 AM ----------

 

I did 2 layers of 100% coverage with RAMMATT covered with 1-2 layers of Ensolite. Gutted every piece of the interior and covered the interior and exterior door/hatch skins, entire roof (wagon), entire floor and hatch area. The interior of all plastic panels were covered in some RAMMATT, and 1-2 layers of Ensolite. Car is so quiet it's insane.
I cant imagine doing all that work then starting the car and turning up the bass and hearing a rattle somewhere. ID FLIP

 
Worked out great. It was the first time I used sound deadening and wanted to do it properly. After some research and talking to people, I figured if I have the time and money, do it right. After all, anything worth doing is worth overdoing. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif The company I worked for at the time shut down for 2 weeks in the summer (paid) so I just sat in my garage, drank, and tore my car apart collecting my paycheck. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif If I worked in the overseas office at the time, I would've gotten June/July/August off paid, plus 5 weeks of paid vacation per year.

I have a Subaru WRX with a decently loud exhaust, which had a noticeable drone on the highway and lots of general rattles. After completing this, there is nothing. Not a rattle, not a squeak, can't hear the exhaust with the windows up. Luckily I had the front stage installed (Rainbow's) for quite a while before doing the deadening, so I had a great before/after comparison. It was night and day with the midbass and general tightness with no road or outside noise. Also in order to get rid of the ****** license plate rattle, I used the four holes on the plate and put rubber o-rings between it and the bumper.

It's heavy though, my doors are solid and make a heavy thud when they close. The hatch can be shut by dropping it from about 3 inches, and I did notice it slightly affected acceleration. I've driven the car cross-country four times now, and the noise was exhausting and made conversations difficult before the deadening. Now my wife and I can basically whisper and it's fine, you hear the A/C more than outside noise. Best decision.

 
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