get loud for cheap / ghetto blaster burb

brian84corvette
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
since forever ive always wanted a "big" car stereo viechle.

a bit ago i purchaced 4 si ht 18s d2 from fourm member 2000lade

and then realized i diddnt have a viechle big enough to stuff 4 in

lol

so i searched craigslist for a while till i got a great price on this old 1990 suburban



time to get loud or fail about 50/50 shot at either way / half full or empty your pick

started off with some front stage - built this center consol front box - ported but having left and right chambers.







for some reason i thought it might be important to have the ash tray still function

so i designed it to be low profile enough to allow that. to do so i fiberglassed to the shape of the floor hump for the bottom. came out pretty cool and gave me a false sence of being capable of doing fiberglass type work.



wraped it in blue fabric donated from my work - almost matches my interior colors

mids were just sitting around in my spare room from forever ago - parts express had a sale on the pearless 6.5 4 ohm for something silly like 14$ each a bunch of years ago - i still had 4 left from then





in the truck. terrible picture



 
so now we needed door speakers. this body style burb has nothing in the doors - but the window motors and regulators are 100% in the way of doing any recess mounting of anything in the doors. so anything on this door will have to be all external pod.

stock



glassing - needed to install fleece and mount on the door - glass it wet and shut the door with plastic there so the fleece took the shape of the stupid floor hump where the front seats mount. had i of not done this way - the shape would of had to been worse by alot.















i also just happen to have 2 pairs of crappy 4 way co ax laying in a box doing nothing so i tossed those in the doors



decided to try sanding and bondo on the driver side door pod



 
sanding fiberglass is the worst. got super frustrated - screwed it down to the table i had and used a belt sander on it.

did some bondo - more sanding - hating it - more bondo - more sanding. got fed up with doing that and just primed it

ill make it look pretty later - i got other crap to build in this thing



driver side is half way finished bondo - and primed. pasanger side is still raw fiberglass blue fleece lol. whatever it plays.

used a hole saw on each 6.5 opening and cut the door open as well so the inside of the pods can vent to the inside of the doors.

doors have rattles - added pollyfill to the inside of the pods and it helped the sound of the speakers a bit - but those co ax are pretty not amazing so ... yeah

next

 
about this time i took a totaly junk box and stuffed my old re sx 18 d2 in it and tossed it in the back just to see what this burb sounds like with some bass.

one 18 does nothing for loud inside this burb.

how about 2 ?

re sx 18 d2 old style ( exposed tinsel leads and felt pads on the cone for slap ) one was in my old 84 vette like 7 years ago - one brand new factory sealed

decided to build seperate boxes for them as to not experience push pull from the loose sub to the stiff sub.



7.25 cubes net ported at 33hz - i designed the box - i failed at it. more on that later









 
we need some batterys. i bought 3 of this brand new localy. got an ok price but i might of been able to do a little better for the $



ordered some 1/0 royal exelence from ebay $110 for 25ft red and 25ft black

got a bunch of aluminum dual distro terminals from home depo.

built a battery box right behind my rear seats.



did run of positive and negative from front battery to rear battery bank. big 3 and was about 6 ft short of red and black to finish the batterys up - used copper for now





have stock alternator for now - but i will soon ( less than 2 weeks from now ) i will have a singer 320 hairpin ( 200/220 amps at engine idle = win )

my wiring is hell. everything is just tossed in there - exept i did run the 1/0 nicely under the carpet



 
then magic happened. my job = event setup and removal - we rent from another similar shop who does alot of audio. im friends with the owner and was telling him about my burb he saw my exitment and gave me a pair of his old 12" peavey black widow electric guitar speakers the dust caps were hammered - so i cut those off and glued on replacments = fantastic free mids !!

so where should i put them ?

doors ? no that would be terribly amout of work to re locate everything... also dont want them in the rear fill area.....

i kno ill take out the existing factory center consol and build a box there for them.

cool - go

this is how it first came out. looks terrible - played ok - filled with pollyfill - sounded amazing. still looks awfull

special note - left and right tweets on the a pillars are infinity refrence









so it plays great. realley warm and alive sounding guitars like red hot chilli peppers / november rain from guns n roses are just astounding up front

but that dang box is so ugly im going to throw up on it.

something has to be done about it.

alright - one million pounds of saw dust later this is what i came up with.



did recess mount on the 12s and cut the front of the box off and used a piece of 12" sono tube to do round over front.

it was awfull doing recess mount on the 12s on a already built and glued together box... and i used my circular saw as a router to fit the sono tube front

it would of probably been easier to just start over from scratch on that box.

box still plays fantastic - filled with pollyfill - both woofs are together for 4 ohm load bridged on 2ch of a old punch 400a4 = 100ish watts per

looks a little better like this now. im sort of satisfied for the time being

 
so the subs are in and playing now - 40hz and up goes pretty hard. below 38hz the cones move and air goes in and out of the port but its not loud.

here is the link to my box math. i built exactly to that spec.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/enclosure-design-construction-help/602824-check-my-math-port-big-enough.html

turns out i picked the wrong location on that drawing to mount my subs. had i of picked mounting point a i would of been good. i chose mounting location c

and the subs were un loading at 38hz down.

crappy







today i decided to build a "loading baffle" ( red in the picture ) to help direct the internal air space better and keep the subs from un loading at the lows



 
building inside already built box... seems like a re occuring theme here.. lol

















and they are both back in now. port issue fixed. my lows have sound now - and my roof flexes like crazy at 25hz tone / 35hz tone is strong and rumbly //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif



 
next up on the list : sound deaden my roof / and doors especialy the front doors.

get some sound processing going on. im using a cadence qxr7 and its terrible. maby get active capable 4 chans. my old school punch 200a4 and 400a4 leave alot to be desired in the tuning of the hz on them....

maby i should buy a headunit instead of just using my ipod to power this entire system lol maby not tho.. i hate headunits haha

o and i have four 18s sitting in boxes wating for me to stop being a little girl and build a wall or a 4th order for them and get LOUD

since im terrible at designing = I NEED HELP designing a ported wall or 4th for theese subs.

at first i thought 4th was out of the question due to c pillar back only for me ( i need to use my back seats i have a kid ) but another fourm member said this :

- You don't need a huge sealed side to get optimal resonance with the SI HT18. Fsc at 2.5 ft^3 (per driver) is 45hz, and drops to 40hz with just a little over 3 ft^3. A 40hz centered 4th with a moderate ratio should get stupid low and move a LOT of air - so maby i can stuff a 4th back there in 3:1 ratio ?



 
Very nice job on the pods for someone who has little glass experience
thank you for the kind words sir - fiberglassing makes my temper go up in a bad way - but its worth it as the end result is desirable.

the work to get there can be taxing for shure. those pods magicly came out good - but i had a few throw aways as well when the glass warped or shrank ext...

to the pro's at fiberglassing i have a whole new respect for you dudes. its totaly a skill to be good at glass. im not there yet. lol

 
nice work on everything so far and i like the truck. Also nice fix on the loading wall in those boxes, its cool to see that it worked

 

so my first attempt at taking a video - aparently i held i phone the wrong way - and yeah not so steady hand.

guess ill try and get better videos later.

also did some measuring in the back. i can build a box inside the truck utalizing the most area avalable - double thick 3/4 on all sides including front and rear the open chamber inside the cabbin would be about 55 to 60 cubes to work with.

is that enough to design a 4th order for my 4 si ht 18 ? they would only want about 14 to 16 cubes on the sealed side + whatever the baffle and bracing will displace

the port opening for the front can ride half in and half out of the enclosure so that wont take away tons of room either

 
i got sick of looking at the center consol arm rest box being raw wood and sono tube - so i laid down a coat of fiberglass inside and out on the top and sono tube area to just make shure its strong - belt sanded it forever - cleaned up with some bondo on the screw holes and smoothed er all out... belt sanded a bunch more. primered it and used some vynal sticker i had left over from a job where i created a gigantic moroccan zebra print arch way. strange client / strange party

but i had it laying in our shop as trash scraps

so free is for me.

started with this:



cut it up in to smaller stripes and applied to the box





what a pain in the butt that was





going back together with polly fill



i think i over stuffed with polly fill the first time. only used 3/4 of that this time.



 
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brian84corvette

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