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planning on going active

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Im redoing my system and all im keeping is headunit, and current infinity perfect coax speaker.

My headunit is a 1400 dvd. 8 band eq,6 rca outs.

Front is going to be ppi65s

Rears infinity perfect 6.1

Now im gonna be passive at first but im buying a new amp anyway and need some requirements incase I wanna run active.. is there anything I need besides built in crossover? Amp might be ppi 900.4

Is my headunit ok if I get a digital processor from ppi?

What other requirements do I need?

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are you referring to the DEQ.8 DSP? sounds quite promising 4 way crossover,8v rca out, time alignment etc

I believe that's all you need to get started

 
Dsp is one way to go or u can just buy amps that are active capable.. not near as many features a DSpL oa nice active HU but nonetheless it will get the job done. Used my old Sun100.4 to run active back in the days using a low end Pio deck and it sounded pretty good really but once I installed the 7000 an used it for active controls it released a totally different animal. All gotta stat somewhere

 
I heard folks talking about adding bass blockers to the tweets even though to cross them over with an active setup. I am assuming this is to prevent any active Xover accidents that might happen with adjusting? If someone could clarify that would be cool.

 
I heard folks talking about adding bass blockers to the tweets even though to cross them over with an active setup. I am assuming this is to prevent any active Xover accidents that might happen with adjusting? If someone could clarify that would be cool.
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If you use the correct crossover points this is unnecessary

 
the main advantage of going active is to be able to mesh the tweeter and mid together better than a typical passive. by changing the crossover slope and point you can use the tweeter or mids strong suit to better make up for the latters lacking.

most mid bass break up around 2.5k so putting a low pass will help take away some of the distortion added at higher frequencies.

now finding a tweeter that can play 2.5k and up may be difficult so changing the slope on the mid form 12db to 6db can make up some of the slack of a tweeter high passed at 2.8k at 12db.

then you can get into 3way systems where the mid plays 80-600 the mid range is 800-4.5k and the tweeter 4.5k and up this puts less strain on individual components allowing for more power handling with a cleaner sound.

active also helps you better level match the tweeters to the mids for tweets that are overly loud or dimly quiet

 
I heard folks talking about adding bass blockers to the tweets even though to cross them over with an active setup. I am assuming this is to prevent any active Xover accidents that might happen with adjusting? If someone could clarify that would be cool.
Click to expand...
main purpose of going active is to eliminate the passive components between the amplifier and the driver, using a passive HP filter would negate any advantage from going active to begin with //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
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the main advantage of going active is to be able to mesh the tweeter and mid together better than a typical passive. by changing the crossover slope and point you can use the tweeter or mids strong suit to better make up for the latters lacking.
most mid bass break up around 2.5k so putting a low pass will help take away some of the distortion added at higher frequencies.

now finding a tweeter that can play 2.5k and up may be difficult so changing the slope on the mid form 12db to 6db can make up some of the slack of a tweeter high passed at 2.8k at 12db.

then you can get into 3way systems where the mid plays 80-600 the mid range is 800-4.5k and the tweeter 4.5k and up this puts less strain on individual components allowing for more power handling with a cleaner sound.

active also helps you better level match the tweeters to the mids for tweets that are overly loud or dimly quiet
Click to expand...
finding a woofer that extends past 3kHz is mandatory because the tweeter should never be crossed over lower than 3kHz..

Edited: My bad, what i meant to say was " I would never Xover a tweeter at less than 3kHz, regardless of attenuation slope..

 
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finding a woofer that extends past 3kHz is mandatory because the tweeter should never be crossed over lower than 3kHz..
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Not all tweeters are the same, some will be able to get low. It also depends on the slope of the xover. A tweeter can be crossed at 2khz if you use a 24db/oct or higher slope

 
finding a woofer that extends past 3kHz is mandatory because the tweeter should never be crossed over lower than 3kHz..
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Iknow a guy crossing his tweets at 1.8khz. One of the best SQ systems I've heard.

Crossover point for tweets depends on slope and power handling as. well.

Generally crossing 1 octave over the fs and not abusing them is where some do it.

Of course blairing them loudly 3khz is probably safe

 
Iknow a guy crossing his tweets at 1.8khz. One of the best SQ systems I've heard.Crossover point for tweets depends on slope and power handling as. well.

Generally crossing 1 octave over the fs and not abusing them is where some do it.

Of course blairing them loudly 3khz is probably safe
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Hi, i may fiddle with 2.5kHz - 2kHz and find out what it sounds like, just might be surprised //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
I just ordered a clarion mcd360 to go active, and from what I can tell, it looks like the ONLY super high option for tweeter crossover is 8000. is that gonna work or should I just go ahead and get myself an active capable headunit now?

 
I just ordered a clarion mcd360 to go active, and from what I can tell, it looks like the ONLY super high option for tweeter crossover is 8000. is that gonna work or should I just go ahead and get myself an active capable head unit now?
Click to expand...
ok, that means the HP filter will let you cross the tweeter over as high as 8kHz but that's a bit high, you want to cross it over anywhere from 2500Hz to 3500Hz

 
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