Wire size and fuse.

You can, but realistically, the fuses are for the wire. For me it just depends on what I have laying around. I've ran 0 gauge with 80a of fusing, and I've ran 0 with 300a of fusing both on the same amp, just different cars. Usually fuses are like +/- a few %, so a 100a fuse might take a second of 110a and be fine, or it could blow at 95. You really should fuse at 300a, then you will never have to worry about messing with it unless you do one hell if an upgrade.

 
Obviously it's wrong because they just said it was. And I agree with then.
According to Crutchfield: Q: How big should the fuse be?

A: If you're installing just one amplifier, the fuse at the battery should simply match or slightly exceed the fuse rating of the amplifier itself. Some amps don't come with onboard fuses — you have to find their fuse ratings in their owner's manuals. If you're installing two or more amplifiers, just add their fuse ratings together and install a fuse rated roughly equal to this sum. Generally, it's better to go slightly higher than lower, but a margin of five amperes is acceptable.

Say you have three amplifiers, two with fuse ratings of 20 amps each and one with a fuse rating of 25 amps. In this case, you can safely go with either a 60 or 70 amp fuse. Of course, if your system is powerful enough to demand that you install a heavy duty fuse, it's important that your power and ground wire be of an appropriately heavy gauge as well.

So, they AND you are wrong. I really don't appreciate your condescending attitude.

Mutant dreams, I appreciate your response. Makes sense.

 
But according to the Mecp study guide ( basic) you fuse based on the wire size. The battery fuse is to protect the wire. Fuses on the amp will protect the amp. If there are no fuses, you can fuse based on the amps current draw. Realistically you can fuse it at whatever you want, I can't make you do anything. If your amp only pulled 60a, a 80a fuse will protect the amp the same as a 300a fuse, but I'm just telling you what I would do. Fuse it at the wire rating, and let it ride.

To;dr

Fuse however you want, just do more than amp draw, that particular fuse protects the car/wire and nothing else.

 
Oh, and I'm definitely not trying to sound rude, some things in car audio arnt that important for most people ( sound deadening, soldering as opposed to crimps, etc,)

But this fusing can save your car, and more importantly, it could actually save your life.

 
Ok. I understand. I was told that the goal is to protect your car. I would think the best case scenario would be to fuse as close as possible to the amp draw. In my case, I have a Memphis Audio 500 watt amp at 2 ohms. It has two 30 amp fuses. I have a 60, 80 and a 100 amp fuse, but I was going to install the 60. Do you think the 80 would be better? The wire is Audio Technix 4 gauge OFC. I think that is rated at 150 amps (not real sure.)

Your being great, not rude at all like that guy earlier. I don't understand some people. I saw no reason for that. I appreciate those that try and inform and educate like you did for me. Thanks again for your help.

 
Personally out of those I would do the 100 or 80, the 60 might be fine, because for the amp to pull 60a it would be at a almost failure point at the amp. So you can run the 80a and you will be %100 fine, and then you can save the 100a incase you upgrade your amp in the future //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
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