Eq burn out

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TDot
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So, I bought my first sub (Boston Acoustic G310) and it wasn't powerful enough, I just didn't pay attention when I bought it, so I needed to get something else and decided to just push it beyond its limits until it blew. It gave me a good five month run. I got the second sub (idqv3) and tuned properly in a sealed box, however I did raise the bass on the eq 20-45hz+10 and was in love with the sound. However, it turns out I burnt it out. Third set (SA10D4) but in a ported box. It's tuned properly as far as rms, but I want more eq around the freq I had before, but also realize the specs of the port go down to 35hz. I have a slot, and no I don't know what it's tuned to specifically.

Can I, should I mess with the eq again in those ranges? By how much? Did the previous one burn out because it was a sealed box?

 
It burned up because your clipping the **** out of your amps and frying your gear. EQ's are mostly for cutting unwanted frequencies not boosting.. Every time you boost a signal 3db's, you asking for 2x the power from your amp.. So if you had a 500 watt amp let's say and your volume was low and on a fullrange bass signal it should be putting out 100 watts, with your +10 boost when a note in that range came on, it was trying to put out 1000 watts or so, which it obviously can't do.. To top it off, your probably didnt run your stuff at low volume it was high volume, high bass, maxed out EQ.. Leave the EQ alone, if you want to use it, cut something that sounds too loud, don't boost. If you need more overall volume, but a bigger amp or you'll just keep blowing speakers. Search for how to set gains properly if your not capable of listening for distortion. (no offense, but you not, so learn to use a DMM and tones)

 
You are absolutely right, and I should have known better. I have more than enough head room to remove the eq, and drop the front and rear stage in order to increase the base perception.

No offense taken, I already set my gains with a ddm when i did it originally, but I put the eq on after everything was done not thinking. I couldn't hear the distortion after the fact because my trunk is sealed up with MLV, and I never listened to the thing with the trunk open after everything was originally set.

 
What about the 35hz thing? Should I be cutting everything below that since that's the bottom of the freq spec? I'm doing a brick wall cut right now.

 
Bottom on the freq spec? You mean like the FS of the woofer, no you don't have to.. The tuning freqency of your box will determine what bass needs to be cut out. Do you have a HPF on your amp or SSF, it should be labeled as one of those two things.. If you do, set it to about 30hz and you should be good, I doubt your box is tuned so high that it wouldn't be safe to do that. If you want to know your approx box tuning, get a bunch of tones between 60hz and 25hz. Make sure they are recorded at the same volume. Run them at a moderate volume level and look at your speaker cone when it's moving. You'll notice as you go down from 60hz excursion will increase.. At some point however, it will begin to decrease.. At some point as you drop even lower , the excursion will quickly begin to increase again. That minimum excurison point between those two is your tuning frequency.

So play say a 60hz tone for your baseline, then 50hz next, it moves more than 60hz, then 40hz, it moved more than 50hz, then 35 and it moved LESS than the 40hz did.. if that happens you'd play 30hz and if it moves more than 35hz, your now below tuning, so 35hz is approx your tuning, you can keep narrowing it down if you can find other tones in between those values, but it's not needed.

Anyway set a SSF about 1/3 of an octave below tuning.. 30hz filter is pretty safe for most tunings, even if your tuned real high at 40hz, 30hz should protect the driver decently if you don't go crazy on the power. If it's a better tuning like 35, 30 is perfect and if it's tuned real low, at say 30hz, you won't be giving up that much...

 
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TDot

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Chris Gerrish

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