Hifonics Zeus 3000.1 Problem

My buddy's Hifonics Zeus 3000.1 is having problems. It works fine until we had to move it around and it got a little shook up. It'll power on and everything fine except when RCAs are plugged into the "Input" side it goes into protect. It did this in his car with the RCAs coming from a LOC, straight from his head unit, and in mine connected straight to my head unit. It's not the RCA wires themselves because we've tried 3 different pairs and as soon as I hooked my amp back up with the exact same wires it works fine.

Does anyone have any idea how I could fix this?

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well if it was shook up, its possible you shook something loose on the inside. That particular amp is a cheaper line for hifonics

well it's a buddy's amp and he said I could use it for a month until I leave for the navy if I can fix it. Any ideas what could be wrong since it won't go into protect until the RCAs are in? If I recall correctly it doesn't go into protect if the RCAs are unplugged.

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i mean i have never heard this issue myself honestly.

It could be the inputs on the amp are gone.

Its broke you're going to have to have it repaired and with that amp it may be cheaper to buy a new one

so with only pwr, grnd, remote connected to this amp it goes into protect?

do you have anything connected to the output of the amp?

The best way to test the problem is this.

1 disconnect everything from the amp

2 disconnect rcas from the head unit

3 hook up power/ground/remote, then test if it goes into protect, it has nothing to do with rcas, if it's fine, go to the next step.

4 hook rcas to amp ( no connection to headunit.) if it goes into protect, rcas could be bad, or inputs on the amp.

5 hook rcas to head unit. If it cuts out it could be rcas or the headunit.

6 hook up speaker wire. ( make sure subs are the correct impudence for the amp.

7 test.

Depending on what step it fails at, could be the problem. If it seems random, make sure grounds are secured to a good firm location.

When I have thing I want to tinker on without having any idea why it's acting up, I usually open it up, take the before picts, do a visual with a bright fluorescent through a watch makers eye piece and use my air compressor to blow any debris that's not soldered or screwed on the amp for that matter. You would be surprised the a strand of wire from the last time you worked on trimming a wire could have fallen in it or something causing a short which turns out to be a piece of chrome that chipped off from it's platting.

From Basic Car Audio Electronics:

If you have a piece of equipment (especially an amplifier) that has played fine for a while with a given size fuse and the fuse blows, do not replace it with a larger fuse. I'd actually suggest temporarily replacing it with a fuse ~1/2 the rating of the one that blew. If you have a 200 watt amplifier that's been running fine with a 30 amp fuse and the fuse suddenly blows, replacing it with another 30 amp fuse is fine but I'd suggest trying a 15 amp fuse first. With the volume set to its minimum position, the amp should power up and idle with the smaller (lower rated) fuse. It should also play cleanly at a low to moderate volume. If the fuse blows with no volume, there is very likely a problem with the amplifier. If it does not play cleanly, there may be a problem with the speaker(s) or wiring. If it blows the fuse at very low volume, there is most likely a shorted speaker or a short in the wiring.