Hey there needing some helping choosing an amp at a fair price

For the price of that you could just get a good 1200 watt RMS amp. I wouldn't go with any non Opti Lanzar amps personally.

Yes, it is too good to be true and, you cannot judge the output of an amplifier by its fusing. You would be able to if amps were 100% efficient but they are not. All amplifiers use more power than they produce and cheap amps with exaggerated power claims are notoriously inefficient.

As was said above you'd be better served to buy a quality amplifier with a modest RMS power rating, even if it cost more than the one you're looking at.

Also, don't bother looking at "peak" or "max" power ratings, even from the highest quality manufacturers. Those numbers are marketing propaganda and they are only there because consumers do not understand how electricity and power work.

There are several, if not dozens.

Some of the more experienced guys will chime and and give you some solid advice and manufacturer names shortly I'm sure.

Literally, there are so many options and I only have experience with a couple of them so I don't want to throw out my biased advice.

Budget will be good first off then you need around 1200-1500 rms

Just run the P3's at 2 ohm. You're going to save yourself a lot of headaches. This would be a great amp: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/amplifier-classifieds/597721-kicker-zx1500-1-a.html Watch your gains however, that Kicker will definitely blow your RF's if you don't set it right. It's probably capable of around 1800.

I agree with that ^ stable voltages and more efficiency with less stress on your electricals.

Stay with a Fosgate amp

Check out their site to find an adequate amp to power 5-600 WATTS Rms

stay at 2 ohm

Easier on your electrical system

How about this amp?
ITEM DESCRIPTION:

OPTI2000D Optidrive 2000W Half Ohm Stable Mono Block Digital Competition Amp

OPTI2000D

Lanzar OPTI2000D Optidrive 2000 Watt Half Ohm Stable Mono Block Digital Competition Class Amplifier

700 Watts RMS Power @ 4 Ohms

1100 Watts RMS Power @ 2 Ohms

1600 Watts RMS Power @ 1.3 Ohms

2000 Watts Max Power @ 0.5 Ohms

4000 Watts Bridge Max Power @ 2 Ohms

Mono Block Subwoofer Amplifier

0.5 Ohm Stable

MOSFET Power Supply

PWM (Pulse-Width-Modulated) System

Double Sided Epoxy PCB Circuit Board

Gold Plated RCA Inputs

Custom Terminal Block for Speaker Connections

Thermal, Overload Short Protection

Remote Bass Control

Soft Turn On/Off

THD @ 1Watt/4 Ohm: 0.1%

S/N Ratio: 90dB

Frequency Response: 15Hz - 150Hz (+/-3dB)

Damping Factor @ 20Hz/4 Ohms: 400

Low Pass Filter: 50Hz-150Hz, 24dB/Octave

Variable Subsonic Filter: 15Hz-40Hz, 24dB/Octave

Variable Bass Boost: 0 to 18dB

Variable Phase Control: 0 to 180

Input Sensitivity: 200mV ~ 8V

Input Impedance: 10k Ohm

Line Output Impedance: 100 Ohm

Fuse Rating: 30A x 6

Dimensions: 10.08'' (W) x 2.12'' (H) x 19.1'' (L)

[[uPC]]

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decent amp, but I have a alpine mrp 2000 for 325 shipped

So, given your advise; do you know of any half ohm stable recommended amp for a fair price?

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For sure I do. The CT Sounds line up will take a .5Ω load but as has been said, you'd be far better off with an amp that does what you need at 2Ω in a daily setup... unless you're prepared to spend a good chunk of money on electrical upgrades.

When you drop to .5Ω efficiency decreases a lot and what that means is that the amp requires significantly more current just to produce the same amount of power. So if you buy a .5Ω stable amp and don't up your electrical, you'll be buying new subs and/or amps sooner than later, because an amp that's starved for voltage will try to pull more current and that will lead to clipping and other stresses on the amp's power supply.

In the end, it's best to buy a quality amp that will do what you need at or above 1Ω. It may cost a bit more in the short run but it'll cost a lot less in the long run.

But to answer your question directly... the 900.1 will do what you need at 1Ω and more than you need at a half. The 1400.1 will do what you need at 2Ω and it will blow your subs to smithereens at a half. The 900.1 is priced comparably to the amp you posted and I'd pay double for it before I'd buy the amp you posted. ;-)

Well my plan is to upgrade "the big three" run an external dry cell battery for the amp so that the amp will not starve for power it would be getting all the power from it's own cell. Running a bigger alternator as well to replenish the power back to the batteries. So, am I half way there for electrical upgrades?

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That could be good enough, depending on the amp, the wire, the batteries and the alternator but the amp won't be getting all of its power from the second battery. The alternator and front battey are a part of the equation as well. In fact, the alternator needs to be able to be the primary supply of power to the amp while the vehicle is running. The batteries are just there for additional current when needed.