Midbass problem. Doors are the culprit?

Deadener may help. U may be getting a lot of flex

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I feel like my biggest issue is airspace though. Am I wrong?

[quote name='T3mpest']Once you put the doorskin, that entire space is still acting as an enclosure. However, it's probably not helping the way it is now, does your speaker have a vented pole piece on the bottom? If so then yes, you def need a inch or two of space behind it, if it's a closed basket, not as much. Your closed cell foam baffle is likely not a great seal though. I'd try and build some wooden ones, if you can't do it yourself, your shop said they would.

Next thing to PLEASE realize, is 50hz is not midbass. Your moms speakers may put out more "bass" becuase they probably aren't crossed over. That is NOT midbass and never will be. Snares can be midbass, but there is treble in that region too. Good midbass is not subbass from your mids. If you want that, you'll basically always be disappointed.[/QUOTE]

What do you mean when you say, "Once you put the doorskin, that entire space is still acting as an enclosure"?

Also, I'm not trying to get subbass from my door speakers. I'm just saying that even when I run them with a HPF at 50hz, they don't put out much of any midbass still (or subbass, but I don't really expect that to happen anyways). For some reason it's just hard for me to grasp that stock speakers running off of HU power can put out a fuller freq. range than aftermarket speakers on an amp when both are run full range (or pretty close to full range, at a 50hz hpf in my case).

Here is a good picture of the back of my speakers: http://www.top-elektronik.at/images/product_images/original_images/actindo_focal_integration_is165.jpg

I know the foam isn't a very good baffle, but it is a decent seal (of course not as good as an mdf baffle, but still pretty decent).

@bradl79; yes, I have a sub. Alpine type r 12 on 500w.

I find that I get more of the midbass kick I'm looking for when I let the sub play a little higher, with everything xover'd at 100hz. But that point, localization starts to occur.

i understand what you are asking. good job with the foam to create a seal against the panel. what you are experiencing is cancellation as well - the rear wave just reflects and comes back out through the cone out of phase. opening up the rear of that "enclosure" will help. but then you have the entire door cavity to deal with. totally worth it though and I don't see the need to rebuild a new enclosure out of wood. just open it up to the door cavity at the rear (keep the top part for water protection.
making a wood baffle for the front may be a good idea to ensure you don't have any air leaks - but you can test that with some low frequency tones.

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Ahh, I see what you're saying. So I'll have that shop cut out the metal (leaving the top in) and then I'll probably just have them install some mdf some baffles in there for cheap too. It will allow some flexibility in speaker choice that way, as well as provide an air tight seal. Should I have them put a couple sq ft of dynamat right behind the woofers to try to cancel some of that rear wave?