What exactly is a "proper install"

hope you can navigate through this Fluster Cuck

proper wiring, wire seperation, shielding, grounding, fusing, clean safe and hidden wires, stable voltages for the amount of power you want to run, deadened doors and trunk, proper baffles and seals for your mids in the doors, proper tweeter mounting location, proper subwoofer enclosure built specifically for your vehicle that works well with your subs aka tuning, size, enclosure type to quality of the enclosure aka bracing, port length, 45s, fiberglassing, Also where the subs and port fire/load off of is important too. if your going 3 way active, tuning and EQ would be another important aspect.

For shops, check to see if they allow you to watch them work, make sure they have a multi-meter and oscilloscope/SMD-DD1, for wirings and such, check if they solder the connections.

The basics need to be in place:

-Solid connections. This is one of the most common causes of problems.

-Use fuses. If you arent sure, fuse it. If its a weekend groundpounder, and a 4' piece of wire connecting some batteries, no big deal. Main power run? Fuse it.

-Proper size wire. Its always better to overestimate the wire size necessary.

-Proper battery/alternator size/amount/placement. A small system is fine on stock electrical. Dont run 2500w on a stock electrical.

-Grounds connected to proper places. If you dont have proper/enough grounds, you will break stuff.

-Wires ran in the proper places. Dont put power wire ziptied to fuel lines or moving parts or other stupid things like that.

-Wires ran neatly. Not a rat's nest. Make sure they are ziptied out of the way and securely in place. Keep it organized.

-Proper headunit/source for your application. You dont want $4500 of audio equipment running off a stock headunit and $20 LOC.

-All speakers crossed over properly. Dont want 600hz going to your tweeters.

-Gains sets properly. Signal needs to be clean.

-Settings set properly. Make sure you have the amps set to the proper filter, and proper settings in the HU. Dont want bass boost on +100000.

-Make sure your vehicle is deadened/braced where needed. If you are installing midbass in the doors, deaden/seal them

Just know the basics. Understand what each part of the stereo does and how it does it. Understand how to use a DMM and how to troubleshoot a basic install. I dont care if its a 10" woofer in a 300w amp or 12 15s on 20,000w. If you have a solid understanding of car audio, speakers, and electricity, you can find the problem.

So many people start way beyond their ability level. I know I did. My want for loudness was much stronger than my patience to learn. Over time, that changed.

Basically, just do a job where you can explain what you did, and be proud of it. If a wire if ran in a certain place, be able to explain why it is ran there, and not somewhere else. Why that crossover setting? Why a butt connector compared to a t-tap? Why is the gain on the amplifier set to what it is? What is the peak draw of your vehicle?

You need to know it all in and out. And if someone were to uninstall it, make sure that someone who knows this stuff would think "wow, this person actually took time to this right." Ive done installs for friends where I spent most of the time making sure that the things that will never be seen are perfect. Just take pride in what you do.

hope you can navigate through this Fluster Cuck
proper wiring, wire seperation, shielding, grounding, fusing, clean safe and hidden wires, stable voltages for the amount of power you want to run, deadened doors and trunk, proper baffles and seals for your mids in the doors, proper tweeter mounting location, proper subwoofer enclosure built specifically for your vehicle that works well with your subs aka tuning, size, enclosure type to quality of the enclosure aka bracing, port length, 45s, fiberglassing, Also where the subs and port fire/load off of is important too. if your going 3 way active, tuning and EQ would be another important aspect.

For shops, check to see if they allow you to watch them work, make sure they have a multi-meter and oscilloscope/SMD-DD1, for wirings and such, check if they solder the connections.

Click to expand...

I wasn't expecting to agree 100% with the first response I came across, but I do. I personally don't think the lack of baffles and deadening makes an install any "less proper", but it's about getting the best sound out of the products you have. Oh yea, avoid clipping (as per proper gain settings).

One thing I've learned about forums is that most of the people haven't used enough products to tell you if one thing is better than another, all they can do is vouch for what they liked, in their specific cars, from their install. Unless someone has used it, take it with a grain of salt. People have won competitions with almost every brand of gear that is made. Lastly, sound quality is only as good as your ears tell you it is.

A "proper" install is one that meets the customer's goals, period. It is one that uses *appropriate* install techniques for the budget and uses best practices for reliability and safety . If you are DIY then you are your own customer. Your first step is always to list out and prioritize what you are looking for in terms of:

1) Signal quality & SPL

2) Head Unit features (handsfree calling, bluetooth audio, touchscreen, DVD, CD, MP3, player compatibility, etc)

3) Ability to easily return car to stock

4) Level of visual customization/modification versus stealth OEM integration

5) Budget

For example, in the case of my OEM integrated SQ system, everything is hidden, I used ugly brown landscape lighting wire for all the speakers. I soldered all harness connections and used heavy-duty waterproofing heatshrink. I used a vinyl covered MDF & glass enclosure custom integrated in to the rear cargo area so I could retain spare access and the sub is visually plain (no bling).

I did not do the big three b/c this is a relatively low powered SQ system and factory electrics are more than adequate (but I knew that because I ran the numbers)

This was a 'good build' for me because it met my goals & budget perfectly without being "overkill". Others might consider this a lousy build.