Dayton refrence 7" for midbass driver.

They were wonderful for me. I miss mine very much. I haven't had any problems with any of dayton's stuff.

I have the same ones except 8"

but they are sitting in my closet. I will be putting them in the car as soon as I can.

Yes I ha used them a few years back and they are well-built they also Play real CLEAR,but the thing I COULD NOT gethem to do was Playdown Low to around 40hz without them breaking up....anything 50Hz and above no problem, on the other hand My OEM ID Mids fit the bill they play Clean and Clear without breakup,can play down to 30 hz. hope this helps...oooh cross the Daytons over @ 2500hz-50hz you should be fine in that range.

Yes I ha used them a few years back and they are well-built they also Play real CLEAR,but the thing I COULD NOT gethem to do was Playdown Low to around 40hz without them breaking up....anything 50Hz and above no problem, on the other hand My OEM ID Mids fit the bill they play Clean and Clear without breakup,can play down to 30 hz. hope this helps...oooh cross the Daytons over @ 2500hz-50hz you should be fine in that range.

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Good point.

Mine will be crossed at 74hz

Yes I ha used them a few years back and they are well-built they also Play real CLEAR,but the thing I COULD NOT gethem to do was Playdown Low to around 40hz without them breaking up....anything 50Hz and above no problem, on the other hand My OEM ID Mids fit the bill they play Clean and Clear without breakup,can play down to 30 hz. hope this helps...oooh cross the Daytons over @ 2500hz-50hz you should be fine in that range.

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Lol why are your running your mids down to 30hz? Might as well go subless at that point. If you all you need is 2 7inch drivers is quasi IB to be happy down to 30 2 12's sounds like major overkill to me.

I have experience with quite a few Dayton drivers and you really have to use them within the published limits. The build house uses regular CA glue on the spider so they will crack if you push them even a tad hard. I had a pair of the RS 180's and with 80 RMS and a 63Hz high pass, the spiders cracked...returned for refund due to manufacturer defect. PE accepted them and recognized the issue. Before that I had the same thing happen to me with the Dayton HO 15's. Having done tons of installs and being around this hobby for 20 years, these were the first speakers I have ever had fail on me. If you want a really solid midbass, here are some options in the same price range:

The Madisound Speaker Store

The Madisound Speaker Store

The Madisound Speaker Store

The Madisound Speaker Store

The Madisound Speaker Store

Concerning frequency coverage, it is generally a good idea to have one pair of speakers cover a specific range. A good starting point is:

Sub 0-80

Midbass 80-350

Midrange 350-6k

Tweeter 6k-up

This isn't the perfect range, but it is a good starting point and keep the drivers in their critical frequency ranges.

Depending on the situation, overlapping can work, but usually doesn't. In my install, there is a gap between drivers that meet at their 3dB down point.

Would it be a bad idea to have the Dayton's run from about 60-1000 then have the 4" cdt's run from like 500-4300? That would have both the daytons and cdt's running from 500-1000. This is my first attempt at a good sq system so I'm not exactly a pro lol.

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THE Key WORD is " CAN" Play Down to 30hz, I don't run them that low in my setup I have them @ 40 hz-2300hz.

thats a good starting point,you will have some gaps but they should be small

All of the woofers I listed have been used and proven to work well in doors, I can't forsee any problems if your doors are deadened and sealed appropriately. Overlapping the subwoofer and midbass may be problematic due to exaggerated peaks that occur naturally in vehicle in the range, but give it a shot, it's only a setting after all.

The Vifa textile tweets are solid tweets, I think you'll have good luck with them.

Hmmmm, Those Peerless 830946 SLS 6.5" Woofer - 4 ohm have peaked my interest. Would those work dropped into a car door that has been deadened and most of the holes on the door sealed up? Whatever midbass driver I go with needs to be able to drop in the door and be 4 ohms.
Also my original plan was close to what you laid on as far as crossover points go. I will try several and get what works best but my first try I think I'll go with

Sub 20(SF) - 80

Mid Bass 60-350

Mid Range 350 - 4300

Tweet 4300 and up.

Again My midrange/tweet crossover point has to be 4300 due to the cdt passive crossover but I think that will work just fine. Anyone have thoughts on the Vifa textile soft dome tweets? There only $10 each on PE but have great reviews for both home and car audio.

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