New speaker guidance (Fi Q's)

jigsISF

Junior Member
Hey Guys,

Just decided to install a system in my 2008 ISF. I have this sealed enclosure which I bought from a friend and got it because it still leaves me with a decent amount of trunk space in my little trunk:

View attachment 26543340

I'm sure that's probably not the best box ever, but eh I like it and it seems pretty sturdy.

Anyway, I have decided to go with the Fi Brand subs. I really wanted the Fi BL's but I noticed they only recommended in a ported box so that's out. So the next best Fi sub I found would be the Fi Q. With the High QTS option added.

Take in mind I will most likely be purchasing a Rockford Fosgate T2500bd amp to accompany the speakers. The goal of my system is to have a nice sounding bass but with the capability to shake the Earth. My question's are as follows:

  1. Do I get these 2 subs made as a 1-ohm DVC or 2-ohm DVC? This is an option on the Fi website
  2. Will I see a difference in bass levels from the 1-ohm DVC and 2-ohm DVC?
  3. What kind of battery should I get for my car to supply this system? (upgrade stock battery vs upgrading stock AND adding secondary battery)
  4. Will that amp provide enough juice or should I look into something more like an AQ 3500??
  5. Any chance I will be able to do hair tricks with this setup or is there a way I can tweak this setup so I can?


From my research I think I'd have to get 1-ohm DVC's wired in parallel to get down to the 1-ohm stability of the amp, but I am a novice at systems so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks a lot guys, us new guys really do appreciate all the guidance this forum provides and if you need any more info I'd be glad to provide.

 
Hey Guys,Just decided to install a system in my 2008 ISF. I have this sealed enclosure which I bought from a friend and got it because it still leaves me with a decent amount of trunk space in my little trunk:

nice car, always a fan of the isf. personally would love a sc300, gs300.

View attachment 26543340

I'm sure that's probably not the best box ever, but eh I like it and it seems pretty sturdy.

Anyway, I have decided to go with the Fi Brand subs. I really wanted the Fi BL's but I noticed they only recommended in a ported box so that's out. So the next best Fi sub I found would be the Fi Q. With the High QTS option added.

Take in mind I will most likely be purchasing a Rockford Fosgate T2500bd amp to accompany the speakers. The goal of my system is to have a nice sounding bass but with the capability to shake the Earth. My question's are as follows:

Will not happen in a sealed application. for the most output and earth shaking bass (lows). youll need to go ported. tuned low.

  1. Do I get these 2 subs made as a 1-ohm DVC or 2-ohm DVC? This is an option on the Fi website
  2. Will I see a difference in bass levels from the 1-ohm DVC and 2-ohm DVC?
    Impedance plays a big role. 2 DVC 1 ohm subs allow you to wire to 1 ohm, 4 ohm, or .25 ohm. 2DVC 2 ohm allow 2 ohm, half ohm, or 8 ohm. for a RF 2500bd(cP) you would want to wire to 1 ohm. so 2 DVC 1 ohm.
  3. What kind of battery should I get for my car to supply this system? (upgrade stock battery vs upgrading stock AND adding secondary battery)
    for 2500 you will want to do the big 3, minimum stock batt + 3 batts. and High output alternator.
     
  4. Will that amp provide enough juice or should I look into something more like an AQ 3500??
    while an aq3500 is a great amp, you will need a lot of electrical. now i assume you have a fair sized budget owning an ISF. but likely spend 3-500 on an alternator with High output, 100-150 per battery. and 200ish on wiring. to save some cash on electrical and weight. look into MMATS. super efficient amps, small footprint. and great power.
  5. Any chance I will be able to do hair tricks with this setup or is there a way I can tweak this setup so I can? hair tricks are completely dependent on an individuals setup. since youre in a trunk environment. A hair trick will be extremely hard, probably not going to happen. But a hair trick doesnt mean youre loud or not. is dependent on tuning, resonant frequency, and how the air moves in the vehicle.
     


From my research I think I'd have to get 1-ohm DVC's wired in parallel to get down to the 1-ohm stability of the amp, but I am a novice at systems so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks a lot guys, us new guys really do appreciate all the guidance this forum provides and if you need any more info I'd be glad to provide.
there

 
4 new batteries, and an H/O alt to boot? Seems a little excessive. I'd just replace the stock batt, and add one in the back and see if you need more. Also, don't buy 150 dollar batteries, that's why you'd have to buy 4 of them, lol. Find a couple 100+Ah batts. You shouldn't have to spend more on your electrical than on the rest of your system combined...

 
More misinformation, just because an enclosure is sealed doesn't mean your subs won't play low. Will they play as loud as a ported box? no, but you make it sound like he won't be able to hear his system below 40hz. You already have the box, so you might as well try it out. If it's not for you, then go ported.

 
Thanks for all the good info guys. Yea I kinda freaked when he said 3 batteries, no clue where I would even put them all. But like you said since I already have the box why not try it. A buddy suggested to keep my stock battery and add a Power XS batt in the trunk and then go from there.

 
Thanks for all the good info guys. Yea I kinda freaked when he said 3 batteries, no clue where I would even put them all. But like you said since I already have the box why not try it. A buddy suggested to keep my stock battery and add a Power XS batt in the trunk and then go from there.
I'm actually about to do a 2500w build myself, and my electrical is going to be stock alt & front battery with 1/0 OFC everywhere and an XS Power XP3000. I would prefer to replace my front battery as well, but I'm not sure if I'm going to be able to afford it.

You can always back your gains down until you're not dropping too much, and then put them back up once a second battery is in.

 
I'm actually about to do a 2500w build myself, and my electrical is going to be stock alt & front battery with 1/0 OFC everywhere and an XS Power XP3000. I would prefer to replace my front battery as well, but I'm not sure if I'm going to be able to afford it.
You can always back your gains down until you're not dropping too much, and then put them back up once a second battery is in.
Sweet man what you gonna have bumpin in there? Oh and do you know of anywhere I can get a custom ported box for my ISF? I picked this box because it fits nicely into my trunk but if I could get someone to build me a ported box similar to this one I'd be all over it so I could get that monster bass.

 
Sweet man what you gonna have bumpin in there? Oh and do you know of anywhere I can get a custom ported box for my ISF? I picked this box because it fits nicely into my trunk but if I could get someone to build me a ported box similar to this one I'd be all over it so I could get that monster bass.
I'll be putting in an SQ HDC3 18" on a RUB1.2500D. I'm probably just gonna DMM the amp to about 2000w, which is still 2x RMS for that sub. I'm also gonna be putting some PHD FB6.1 comps on a DD C2c in the doors. Should sound nice once it's all said and done.

Box builders on here would be DC Creations and SS Audio Solutions.

 
You're going to need to pull off every panel and apply deadener and closed cell foam or that nice car is going to turn into a rattle trap. It's a Toyota so a alternator upgrade is a must, get the largest and best one you can. Depending on where it charges like mine you might need a bypass or external regulator.

 
You're going to need to pull off every panel and apply deadener and closed cell foam or that nice car is going to turn into a rattle trap. It's a Toyota so a alternator upgrade is a must, get the largest and best one you can. Depending on where it charges like mine you might need a bypass or external regulator.
Where exactly should I put the deadener, just the trunk? Also you have any good deadener you can recommend and how much sq. feet I should get? I'm trying not to spend hundreds of dollars on it but will take your advice. Thanks in advance.

 
Where exactly should I put the deadener, just the trunk? Also you have any good deadener you can recommend and how much sq. feet I should get? I'm trying not to spend hundreds of dollars on it but will take your advice. Thanks in advance.
Trunk, doors, quarter panels. Audiotechnix has good deadener, also dynaliner for the CCF. Put it in between the panels and sheet metal.

 
T2500 bdcp are inneficient amps. And sealed boxes do not typically plaw that low. Size is a fsctor and his enclosure looks small.. you will not get 2500 off a stock battery and one in the rear. I've actually ran 2500rms.

 
To get to 2K daily minimum would be 1/0 run of OFC from front batt to back batt, rear battery minimum 75AH AGM. If your not planning to get a H.O. alt frequently check your resting voltage before you start the car and chances are if you hammering on it alot be prepared to charge your batts every week. Without a h.o. alt the only amp I would recommend is a DD M2b, they are efficient and make rated power at 11.9V and you will be dipping in the mid 12 volts on full tilt.

 
To get to 2K daily minimum would be 1/0 run of OFC from front batt to back batt, rear battery minimum 75AH AGM. If your not planning to get a H.O. alt frequently check your resting voltage before you start the car and chances are if you hammering on it alot be prepared to charge your batts every week. Without a h.o. alt the only amp I would recommend is a DD M2b, they are efficient and make rated power at 11.9V and you will be dipping in the mid 12 volts on full tilt.
Is there a way I can add a digital meter so I can know what my resting voltage is at every start up? Where would I hook that meter up to? I think I can manage the battery and the 1/0 wire. How would I charge the battery every week if I do hammer hard at any given time?

 
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jigsISF

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