ALERT! NOOB to subs here! just joined. not a bass head. Just average joe listener.

CO1991Toyota

Junior Member
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Craig
Hey all, please don't harp on me too bad for being a cheapskate as often as I can be, but here is my setup right now and what I'd like to add to it:

Pioneer (I don't remember the model #) 6.5" fronts (10 years old I think), and Pioneer TS-A6965R 6x9 rears (still on their way here from Amazon) all run by a Pioneer DEH-P7400MP Headunit (also 10 years old I think). I'm just learning about sub stuff, and never even considered one until I pulled the HU out the other day to make sure I had the AUX port to hook up external stuff to it and saw all the RCA jacks available. kinda got my mental wheels spinning of excitement to play with new stuff. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I ordered a CD-RB10 to use with my new little, and I mean little mp3 player. I'm not a gadget guy at all (have an old LG VX8300 cell phone that I hardly use), but dearly want to stop burning CD's just to have music in the truck. I do have about 60 or so Gig of mp3's from many years of ripping all I've bought from music festivals, amazon, ebay, you name it.

Oh, the truck. It's a 1991 Toyota SR5 Extended Cab (the usual 4wd v6). I'm a seriously basic listener that has been satisfied for way too many years with a pair of OLD Jensen 160w (60RMS) 6x9's in the sides of the extracab. By the way, these were great for me, just to give you an idea of what I was used to until they completely blew out. Just for fun I'll try to upload the images of these seriously rotted out beauties. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif anyway, I'm looking at the Legacy LWF10X 10'' 400 Watt Legacy ''L'' Series Woofer (Set of 1) , OR the GRS 10PR-8 10" Poly Cone Rubber Surround Woofer (I'd link to them but new posters aren't allowed to do that) but I don't know how to match an amp to it for REAL cheap. $25 or less anyone? Also not sure where I am going to put it. I'd love to just stuff it under one of the seats (or get two for both seats), but that would be just a raw speaker under there with nothing around it at all. (How bad is that anyway? I understand subs need a box to reverb in and do what they're intended to do), but would it just be a complete waste of a speaker?

Tired of CD's. Just picked up a Sandisk Sansa Clip Zip to put microSDHC cards in (Up to 32GB I think it max's at.) that so I can load it up and play without skips, scratches, 'n no muss no fuss. "set it 'n forget it" kind of thing. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Okay on to uploading those old Jensen JTX3269 images...View attachment 26543206View attachment 26543207 Wow. that's so much easier than uploading to Amazon's discussion. for me anyway. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Well, that's a start to post here, as I really want to get this stuff going while my dash is still disassembled.

Thanks enormously to anyone who feels the need to educate the new guy. ("The HI ME project" - Get Smart movie). //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Chuck

p.s. Ideally, the amp to drive whatever sub will also come from Amazon, as I have a lot of points to spend with them.

 
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Ideally your looking for a 10 inch sub or can you fit a 12 , are you looking for boom bass or just a small upgrade with bass you can hear in the cab and a little when you roll down your window or do you wanna show off?

 
I'd say finding something local on Craigslist or a pawn shop may be a good way to get into a subwoofer in a box. Subwoofer with no box does nothing whatsoever as the front and rear wave cancel eachother out.

MP3's on a SD card or thumb drive are super handy, but depending on the head unit you may experience lag time reading or flat out choking the head unit if you have too many files on it (many have a cap of 999 files that they can read before they choke)

 
I'd say finding something local on Craigslist or a pawn shop may be a good way to get into a subwoofer in a box. Subwoofer with no box does nothing whatsoever as the front and rear wave cancel eachother out.
MP3's on a SD card or thumb drive are super handy, but depending on the head unit you may experience lag time reading or flat out choking the head unit if you have too many files on it (many have a cap of 999 files that they can read before they choke)
For what he wants hell be spending 80$ tops for the sub , amp ,box , and wires

PYLE PLW10RD 10-Inch 600 Watt Subwoofer:Amazon:Car Electronics

Boss Audio RIOT R1002 2-Channel Power Amplifier:Amazon:Car Electronics

Scosche SE10R 10-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure:Amazon:Car Electronics

Scosche SE10R 10-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure:Amazon:Car Electronics

There you go man good luck , watch you some youtube videos hook it up and bang out you should be able to at least grasp the concept

 
Many thanks to all who've replied thus far. Another question: Is it more important to match ohms of speaker(s) with amp? so if you have a 4ohm amp, you should only run 4ohm speakers, right? if you run 4 into 8ohm speakers it'll kill'em won't it? or is wattage, only RMS I know, what to pay closer attention to?

Also, to run any sub I'm looking at in my very low price range, would this one be a good idea: DUAL XPA2500? it's 50x4rms, bridgeable to either two or one channel (1ch=150w rms)

 
Nut, this is to go into a pretty small truck withOUT the intention of filling teh extracab with a speaker box. I want to still have the extracab for all the other uses it's for, not just for a subwoofer enclosure. As I titled my posting with, "not a bass head. Just an average joe listener." I'm ONLY looking to give my current very basic system a bit of umph, NOTHING that THUMPS THUMPS THUMPS. no thanks. My hearing is bad enough already. I was originally hoping to stuff a speaker under a seat (max 4" top to bottom and ~10" round) but that leaves NO room for any enclosure there or anything, which is why I asked if just a bare speaker makes any sense at all. I was informed the speaker actions would cancel themselves out and I wouldn't even know I had a sub. I get it. I know they require a box to be in to do what they are designed to do. So, that said, I am willing to sacrifice the little space right behind the passenger seat on the floor, maybe 12"W x 8"D x whatever Height - just a guess. I could probably put a pretty beefy sub in that spot, but POWERING it properly is my biggest concern. do I match ohms, watts, rms, or what is the most important spec to pay attention to when researching to buy?

 
First off don't get anything that says Boss or Pyle on it. Your best bet is to get a good little 8" or 10" sub and run it at off a cheap 2 channel amp at around 150-200 watts or so. Something like this for a sub: Amazon.com: Infinity Reference 860w 8-Inch 1,000-Watt High-Performance Subwoofer (Single Voice Coil): Car Electronics This for an amp: Amazon.com: Kenwood KAC-1502S Stereo / Bridgeable 350 Watts 2 Channel Car Power Amplifier: Car Electronics and here's a box: Amazon.com: New Single Car Black Subwoofer Box Sealed Automotive Enclosure for 8-Inch Woofer 8S: Car Electronics All for around 160. You can probably go cheaper but why? This will suit your needs nicely... There's a lot of choices. What I'm saying is do a little research first and go from there.

 
Nut, this is to go into a pretty small truck withOUT the intention of filling teh extracab with a speaker box. I want to still have the extracab for all the other uses it's for, not just for a subwoofer enclosure. As I titled my posting with, "not a bass head. Just an average joe listener." I'm ONLY looking to give my current very basic system a bit of umph, NOTHING that THUMPS THUMPS THUMPS. no thanks. My hearing is bad enough already. I was originally hoping to stuff a speaker under a seat (max 4" top to bottom and ~10" round) but that leaves NO room for any enclosure there or anything, which is why I asked if just a bare speaker makes any sense at all. I was informed the speaker actions would cancel themselves out and I wouldn't even know I had a sub. I get it. I know they require a box to be in to do what they are designed to do. So, that said, I am willing to sacrifice the little space right behind the passenger seat on the floor, maybe 12"W x 8"D x whatever Height - just a guess. I could probably put a pretty beefy sub in that spot, but POWERING it properly is my biggest concern. do I match ohms, watts, rms, or what is the most important spec to pay attention to when researching to buy?

 
Okay, for better or worse I just bought this for $30 delivered: Dual XPA2500 300 Watt 2-Channel Amplifier. (I got excited after reading the reviews on Crutchfield about it, and took the plunge to buy it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

PLEASE reassure me I did okay..... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif You know I'm not too sure what I'm doing with all this yet, but if this amp is good, then I'm on the hunt to match the perfect affordable (less than $30 or $40 ish). Trust me, I'd love to spring for much of the equipment you mentioned, but way out of my price range right now. I know when you spend a bunch, it lasts. but my personal preferences are so low and I require so little to please me, that I'm not too worried. I'm Handy 'n cheap that way. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Could someone explain to me where dBA ties into the picture of levels of potential distortion? sometimes, not always for sure, but sometimes I like to crank it, but I don't want to blow anything out of ignorance or poor planning here.

Here is some info on the amp:

Dual XPA2500 300 Watt 2-Channel Amplifier

The Dual XPA2500 2-channel mobile audio amp features all of the power, in/out connectivity, and protection you need to complete a truly rockin' ride. Its solid construction incorporates an extruded aluminum heat sink that strengthens the chassis while dumping excess heat.

Specifications: • Power output: 50 watts RMS x 2 (4 ohm), 75 watts RMS x 2 (2 ohm), 150 watts RMS x 1 (4 ohm), 300 watts max x 1 • Total harmonic distortion (THD) + N: 75 dBA • Input sensitivity: 200 mV~ 6 V • Frequency response: 20-20,000 Hz • Dimensions: 9.17" L x 8.9" W x 2.13" D • One-year manufacturer's warranty.

Additional features:

•Low level RCA inputs

•High level speaker inputs

•Class A/B output design

•Stereo/bridged simultaneous operation

•Extruded aluminum heat sink

•Barrier strip connection terminals

•Side mounted controls

•Auto-reset speaker short circuit protection

•Speaker short circuit protection

•Reverse polarity protection

 
The pyle speaker is just fine for your application everyone thinks because its a bottom name speaker its a piece of **** but truely if you have a ****** speaker placed in the right enclosure and a good amp you can make it sound pretty dam good

As far as the amp goes its a fairly good amp for your app as I read your going the cheap rout which people clearly cant understand

As far as the speaker goes you can have a 1 ohm speaker a 2 ohm speaker 4 or 8 its all about impedance when you wire it now if you get a single voice coil sub your gonna have to run it at that impedance weather it be 2 4 or 8 , you best bet would be a 2 or 4 ohm speaker , unles you spend a little extra for the dual voice coil woofer which has diff variations of wiring , say you have a 2 ohm dvc you can wire it parallel ++ , -- , and youll get a 1 ohm load , or you can wire it in series one side + to othe side - and the two wires you have left each got to the amp the remaining + to the amp and - to the amp which gives you a 4 ohm load same goes with a 4 ohm woofer parallel gives you a 2 ohm load and series gives you an 8 ohm load

 
Okay, for better or worse I just bought this for $30 delivered: Dual XPA2500 300 Watt 2-Channel Amplifier. (I got excited after reading the reviews on Crutchfield about it, and took the plunge to buy it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif
PLEASE reassure me I did okay..... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif You know I'm not too sure what I'm doing with all this yet, but if this amp is good, then I'm on the hunt to match the perfect affordable (less than $30 or $40 ish). Trust me, I'd love to spring for much of the equipment you mentioned, but way out of my price range right now. I know when you spend a bunch, it lasts. but my personal preferences are so low and I require so little to please me, that I'm not too worried. I'm Handy 'n cheap that way. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Could someone explain to me where dBA ties into the picture of levels of potential distortion? sometimes, not always for sure, but sometimes I like to crank it, but I don't want to blow anything out of ignorance or poor planning here.

Here is some info on the amp:

Dual XPA2500 300 Watt 2-Channel Amplifier

The Dual XPA2500 2-channel mobile audio amp features all of the power, in/out connectivity, and protection you need to complete a truly rockin' ride. Its solid construction incorporates an extruded aluminum heat sink that strengthens the chassis while dumping excess heat.

Specifications: • Power output: 50 watts RMS x 2 (4 ohm), 75 watts RMS x 2 (2 ohm), 150 watts RMS x 1 (4 ohm), 300 watts max x 1 • Total harmonic distortion (THD) + N: 75 dBA • Input sensitivity: 200 mV~ 6 V • Frequency response: 20-20,000 Hz • Dimensions: 9.17" L x 8.9" W x 2.13" D • One-year manufacturer's warranty.

Additional features:

•Low level RCA inputs

•High level speaker inputs

•Class A/B output design

•Stereo/bridged simultaneous operation

•Extruded aluminum heat sink

•Barrier strip connection terminals

•Side mounted controls

•Auto-reset speaker short circuit protection

•Speaker short circuit protection

•Reverse polarity protection
Honestly, you would have been better off checking a local pawn shop or craigslist for some better brands. Not trying to be mean or anything but you're wasting your money.. in the long run you'd be much happier had you spent a little more.

 
Thanks Fox. I'm such an incredibly light user, it almost makes me wonder where all the excitement ever came from to even look into sub stuff. As I wrote initially when I came to this board, I'm not even remotely a fan of much bass. I DO like quality sound. having survived for the past year or so on only the two 6 1/2" door speakers powered by my Pioneer 7400 hu, anything is a step up. so I finally replaced the burnt two 6x9 rears with Pioneer 6965's and really like 'em a lot so far. Have barely driven anywhere as I rarely go into town. my truck is run maybe a few times a month. It was just bugging me for the few times I do run it, I like to have some quality sound for all the tunes I have. Chris LeDoux, Johnny Cash, Waylon Jennings, all played fairly loud. Well, loud in most people's opinion I suspect. anyway, I haven't even hooked this amp up yet. work'n to make time today perhaps.

Living near Craig, CO offers one, count 'em, ONE pawn shop, and it is near-exclusive guns 'n ammo as the sole purpose of that shop. I walked in adn saw a little VCR being the extent of his electronics at the time. He said no too much for electronic stuff comes in there. Nearest best option would be either Grand Junction or Denver, but a long stretch away. anyway, I follow your reasoning though. I'm still just hoping this amp even works at all, and to play with it a little if it does, just for curiosity's sake. and the learning opp. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
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