Whats the best setup for tight bass for a budget of 450$

Jeffdachef
5,000+ posts

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Everyone probably has their own version of "tight" bass but my definition is, the exact opposite of the low rumbling earthquake sound or the boomy rattle your trunk, P*ss off your neighbors sound.

The sub's excursion should short not long, while moving extremely fast and gives a heavy pressure feeling to your chest, soo much that you can barely breathe, even in the front driver's seat of a 4 door sedan"corolla xrs =/".

I'm pretty sure its a higher frequency sounding bass that i want. An Example would be the upper end bass of TI - What You Know About That , or As I Lay Dying - The Sound of Truth, there should be bass throughout most of the songs, some subwoofer setups I've heard had no bass going on in the song unless its a really low note even with the LPF set a lot higher. I would like to steer clear of those as much as possible.

I need a setup that is can keep up with a double bass pedal from a metal song with lots of chest peircing slam to go along with it. I've tried 8" midbass drivers from Alpine, it sounded okay but i need something a lot stronger, midbass drivers dont really cut it.

Also to get this sound is it best to go with a sealed box, ported box or do i need to spend extra for a bandpass box?

Thanks guys for your time in reading and responding in advance.

PS: i'm wondering if this is actually tight bass or is there another definition for it? Also, does it fall under the SQ or SPL category?

 
what you want is an sql system .which is mostly from the install and box end of it more than the subs .while bigger subs tend to give the low end that most people love ,the 8" subs and the 10 " subs will give the same but will also give the kick drum sound you want .what we will need from you is , is that budget for subs and box ? and how much power you wanna run to the subs ,also will need to know if your going to do any electrical upgrades as well.some of the vendors here like myself can help you but we will all need this info first .

 
A solid high tuned ported enclosure with a decent sub should do this. Pair of 10's 3.5 cu tuned to 42hz and a lot of port a sub with good excursion should be able to drop to mid 30's and have great 40-50hz response. Sa's, type. R's, dc lvl 4. I have a similar box with 10's and does exactly what you want.

 
Subwoofer alone can't play all your bass. It's important to have some good bass coming from the front speakers as well. This is important for subwoofer integration, the feeling of bass coming from up front. Most subwoofers sound sloppy or have little output above about 80Hz anyways. The issues that you describe seem to be more with the frequency response of your bass, rather than tightness. I associate tightness more with subwoofer's transient response (how dynamic and realistic it sounds with transients). The frequency response issue could come from the specifics of your cabin, box design, equalizer settings, bass boot settings, gain settings, crossover settings, etc. Only after you have tweaked all these things should you start thinking of getting another subwoofer.

 
what you want is an sql system .which is mostly from the install and box end of it more than the subs .while bigger subs tend to give the low end that most people love ,the 8" subs and the 10 " subs will give the same but will also give the kick drum sound you want .what we will need from you is , is that budget for subs and box ? and how much power you wanna run to the subs ,also will need to know if your going to do any electrical upgrades as well.some of the vendors here like myself can help you but we will all need this info first .
So 12/15/18" subs don't have kick //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif Honestly can't believe you posted that.

I run 18's and have punch galore, knock a smile on or off your face punch //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yumyum.gif.0556df42231b304b9c995aefd13928a8.gif

 
thanks for the replies //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif.

I currently have an RE Audio DTS 1500.1 class d mono-block amp rated at 1000 rms @ 1 ohm 700@ 2 ohm. The budget is for either one good sub + box or two cheaper subs + dual enclosure. The sub/subs will probably be under-powered until i upgrade my alternator, amp and battery an a few months.

Also, i drive a corolla xrs so dual 8s, 10s and 12s is okay but dual 15s or larger, would probably mean not having any trunk space left, not too big of an issue but i do like to keep a tiny bit of room for my fishing equipment lol.

~~Zako~~ My current speakers practically have no bass (no matter the EQ, C/O settings) and is focused more in the highs and mid-range so i want to rely on the subs more for those frequencies rather than upgrading the whole component speaker system all over again. I've been in cars similar to mines where the subs reach the driver's seat just fine.

~~Dbjunior~~ how strong would a good single 10" be? If it can make me desperately grasp for air, i'm sold xD

 
you need to get midbass out of your speakers in order to get a "tight" bass sound. contrary to popular belief - the punch you want comes from the speakers. getting midbass requires seals and baffles - you need to fully isolate the rear airspace from the cabin. we do that by sealing the door openings, using weatherstripping foam to create seals between speaker and door panel/grill/metal. and i put bags of fiberglass batt in the door cavity to further improve speaker response.

start by focusing on your speaker installations. get them sounding good down to 60Hz. then, and only then, focus on subs.

 
he wants more kick but now the over whelming low end
Then he would play a song at the proper freq for kick, not low end. Size of sub won't make a difference. My 18 in the daily has plenty of kick...

You are succumbing to ca myths my friend //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif

 
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