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Honestly that kind of stuff is basic when running that kind of power. I see burned up equipment in your future


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JL did a test on it. Where is all the current getting pulled from? The alternator. The alternator is grounded under the hood. That's why you do the big 3.

 

Weird. I always thought the frame would be best cuz its closest to being grounded. Idk in still a newb with electrical this is my first big build. So Im trying to figure this all out now so I don't screw anything up. If I did 2 runs of 1/0 + and1 run of 1/0 - and two - gnds in the back would that be good? Just trying to save some wire but I fess wouldnt save much in the end really if I already was doing 1 run of - to front......


01 Silverado 2500hd

Four custom mmats juggernaut 12's. (For sale, or trade for two beefy 12's or 15's)

 

Bought from: Jayzbent, mylows10, logan527, Timmy13091, wingsfreak9, Underfire

Traded with: mylows10(x2), knowmadic

Sold to: 03silverado03, foomanchu, heel4lyfe, Timmy13091, wErd

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Weird. I always thought the frame would be best cuz its closest to being grounded. Idk in still a newb with electrical this is my first big build. So Im trying to figure this all out now so I don't screw anything up. If I did 2 runs of 1/0 + and1 run of 1/0 - and two - gnds in the back would that be good? Just trying to save some wire but I fess wouldnt save much in the end really if I already was doing 1 run of - to front......

 

The power supply is the most important part of the build. Should not be skimped on. Power is going to flow over the path of least resistance. How much resistance does a frame have. Welds?


2014 Ford Fusion SE 2.0T

JBL MS-8

Zapco ST-4X SQ, ST-1000XMii

IDQ12v4 1.8cu sealed

Alpine SPX Pro ring radiators

Hertz HV165XL

Knuconceptz OFC, Custom fit Soundrive RCAs.

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Interesting guess strands dont matter, lol, scratch the editted part above.

 

and refer to the 2 runs of a certain gauge is 2 gauges below the beginning gauge number.

 

Wire gauge is a measurement of how large a wire is, either in diameter or cross sectional area.

 

Edit:

1 last thing lol, catching up on some reading.

 

http://www.thenakedscientists.com/forum/index.php?topic=44574.0

 

Basiclly

With DC, the electrons spread out throughout the entire conductor or conductors so that the current density is the same everywhere. Of course, this only applies if the conductors are all made of the same material.

 

he main reason why you would want to make wires multi-stranded for use at DC (or low frequencies) is to make them flexible.

- One thick conductor is harder to bend around corners, and so is harder to install


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JL did a test on it. Where is all the current getting pulled from? The alternator. The alternator is grounded under the hood. That's why you do the big 3.

 

Weird. I always thought the frame would be best cuz its closest to being grounded. Idk in still a newb with electrical this is my first big build. So Im trying to figure this all out now so I don't screw anything up. If I did 2 runs of 1/0 + and1 run of 1/0 - and two - gnds in the back would that be good? Just trying to save some wire but I fess wouldnt save much in the end really if I already was doing 1 run of - to front......


01 Silverado 2500hd

Four custom mmats juggernaut 12's. (For sale, or trade for two beefy 12's or 15's)

 

Bought from: Jayzbent, mylows10, logan527, Timmy13091, wingsfreak9, Underfire

Traded with: mylows10(x2), knowmadic

Sold to: 03silverado03, foomanchu, heel4lyfe, Timmy13091, wErd

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Honestly that kind of stuff is basic when running that kind of power. I see burned up equipment in your future

 

I don't. Thats why I'm on here asking questions trying to do it right.


01 Silverado 2500hd

Four custom mmats juggernaut 12's. (For sale, or trade for two beefy 12's or 15's)

 

Bought from: Jayzbent, mylows10, logan527, Timmy13091, wingsfreak9, Underfire

Traded with: mylows10(x2), knowmadic

Sold to: 03silverado03, foomanchu, heel4lyfe, Timmy13091, wErd

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By the way its not the alternator, its the engine block that is the best ground.


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The easiest way i see you running this setup would be.

 

adding another battery in the rear.

Running your runs from the front to the rear batt.

From the rear batt to the Amp.

 

The rear batt would act as a distro block and give you more reserve


:censored:KArAudio.COM:censored:

 

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The easiest way i see you running this setup would be.

 

adding another battery in the rear.

Running your runs from the front to the rear batt.

From the rear batt to the Amp.

 

The rear batt would act as a distro block and give you more reserve

 

hes adding 3 batteries to the rear ..where the hell have u been ..the question is it worth making full ground runs from the front battery to the rear battery bank

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Weird. I always thought the frame would be best cuz its closest to being grounded. Idk in still a newb with electrical this is my first big build. So Im trying to figure this all out now so I don't screw anything up. If I did 2 runs of 1/0 + and1 run of 1/0 - and two - gnds in the back would that be good? Just trying to save some wire but I fess wouldnt save much in the end really if I already was doing 1 run of - to front......

 

By the way its not the alternator, its the engine block that is the best ground.

 

The alternator makes power. It flows out and pulls in. Not the engine block.


2014 Ford Fusion SE 2.0T

JBL MS-8

Zapco ST-4X SQ, ST-1000XMii

IDQ12v4 1.8cu sealed

Alpine SPX Pro ring radiators

Hertz HV165XL

Knuconceptz OFC, Custom fit Soundrive RCAs.

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hes adding 3 batteries to the rear ..where the hell have u been ..the question is it worth making full ground runs from the front battery to the rear battery bank

 

nope

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Lets make this easy. Look at every successful moderate power build. What do you see?


2014 Ford Fusion SE 2.0T

JBL MS-8

Zapco ST-4X SQ, ST-1000XMii

IDQ12v4 1.8cu sealed

Alpine SPX Pro ring radiators

Hertz HV165XL

Knuconceptz OFC, Custom fit Soundrive RCAs.

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i see ppl regreting adding useless runs to gain .1 in voltage and little to nuthing on the meter

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The alternator makes power. It flows out and pulls in. Not the engine block.

 

Pulls what in?

The alternator doesn't pull anything in it only generates power. This is not AC, well it generates AC, but thus the diodes in the alternator that convert it to DC.

Also if that was the case why don't Alternator manufacturers have a Neg post coming from the Alt?

 

 

But that is besides the point, even if you are correct the Alternator is still mounted to the block directly, So anything connected to it would still be sufficent


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Pulls what in?

The alternator doesn't pull anything in it only generates power. This is not AC, well it generates AC, but thus the diodes in the alternator that convert it to DC.

Also if that was the case why don't Alternator manufacturers have a Neg post coming from the Alt?

 

 

But that is besides the point, even if you are correct the Alternator is still mounted to the block directly, So anything connected to it would still be sufficent

 

It's called a loop. And they do have a negative. The case


2014 Ford Fusion SE 2.0T

JBL MS-8

Zapco ST-4X SQ, ST-1000XMii

IDQ12v4 1.8cu sealed

Alpine SPX Pro ring radiators

Hertz HV165XL

Knuconceptz OFC, Custom fit Soundrive RCAs.

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http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/documents/MC%20CLASS%20D%20MONO%20BLOCK%20SUBWOOFER%20AMPLIFIER%20MANUAL%20080818.pdf

 

page 6 explains how the amp should be grounded. same would go for the rear batts. this would all depend on doing a proper big 3 as well. just make sure you have the same negative capacitance as positive. 2 pos runs front to rear bank, then do two grounds at rear chassis. knu 1/0 is rated over 300 amps. 2 runs=at least 600 amps capacitance. 4000watts/14.4 volts=278 amps of max current draw with constant voltage. you can always add runs later if it tickles you, but most just don't need 'em...........

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Second interesting thought.

 

I can run my car with no alternator.

 

I can also run my car (after starting) with no battery.

 

Also dc circuits power runs from neg to pos.

The only neg is the battery.

The alternator serves to charge the batt.

the neg cable is connected to the chassis(ie chassis ground)

 

I dont see where the idea of the alternator being a ground comes from when it is only a generator and the battery is what completes the circuit not the alternator.

 

edit:

The only thing i can see is that the engine block is cast iron v and aluminum housing which would conduct better.


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OMGROFLHI2ULOLLERZTITSHAHAHAHASEALEDMTWTFSTFUKTHXBYENO0B

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Second interesting thought.

 

I can run my car with no alternator.

 

I can also run my car (after starting) with no battery.

 

Also dc circuits power runs from neg to pos.

The only neg is the battery.

The alternator serves to charge the batt.

the neg cable is connected to the chassis(ie chassis ground)

 

I dont see where the idea of the alternator being a ground comes from when it is only a generator and the battery is what completes the circuit not the alternator.

 

edit:

The only thing i can see is that the engine block is cast iron v and aluminum housing which would conduct better.

 

Umm you can not run the car without the alternator. It's purpose is to run the car not charge the battery. Think of the alternator like a battery that charges itself.


2014 Ford Fusion SE 2.0T

JBL MS-8

Zapco ST-4X SQ, ST-1000XMii

IDQ12v4 1.8cu sealed

Alpine SPX Pro ring radiators

Hertz HV165XL

Knuconceptz OFC, Custom fit Soundrive RCAs.

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http://www.memphiscaraudio.com/documents/MC%20CLASS%20D%20MONO%20BLOCK%20SUBWOOFER%20AMPLIFIER%20MANUAL%20080818.pdf

 

page 6 explains how the amp should be grounded. same would go for the rear batts. this would all depend on doing a proper big 3 as well. just make sure you have the same negative capacitance as positive. 2 pos runs front to rear bank, then do two grounds at rear chassis. knu 1/0 is rated over 300 amps. 2 runs=at least 600 amps capacitance. 4000watts/14.4 volts=278 amps of max current draw with constant voltage. you can always add runs later if it tickles you, but most just don't need 'em...........

 

So technically I COULD run it on 1 run.but it would be at its max right? Jw. I'm doing two runs enyways but ya.....


01 Silverado 2500hd

Four custom mmats juggernaut 12's. (For sale, or trade for two beefy 12's or 15's)

 

Bought from: Jayzbent, mylows10, logan527, Timmy13091, wingsfreak9, Underfire

Traded with: mylows10(x2), knowmadic

Sold to: 03silverado03, foomanchu, heel4lyfe, Timmy13091, wErd

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So technically I COULD run it on 1 run.but it would be at its max right? Jw. I'm doing two runs enyways but ya.....

 

yes you could do 1 run, reason you do 2 usually is because it helps with thermal capacity and because of fusing limits. wire i run is capable of 350+ amps, but you can only get a 300 amp fuse. so you do two runs to essentially cut the current in half. it won't always be exactly 50/50 per wire, but you get the idea

 

edit- i believe that manual said do (2) 250 amp fuses

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