Screws for holding subwoofer in box? Length of screws?

akillj
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I know it's been asked before, but I'm unsure on the exact length of the screw.

Does it have to be long enough to drill ALL the way through?

Do you drill your pilot holes ALL the way in?

I bought some drywall screws from ebay for when I order my American Bass XFL 12". I'm not sure if they're long enough, or if they will work.

(If you search "1-5/8" Drywall Screw Phillips Coarse Thread 1lb Box" on ebay you will find them. I cannot post links here, otherwise I would)

 
I know it's been asked before, but I'm unsure on the exact length of the screw.
Does it have to be long enough to drill ALL the way through?

Do you drill your pilot holes ALL the way in?

I bought some drywall screws from ebay for when I order my American Bass XFL 12". I'm not sure if they're long enough, or if they will work.

(If you search "1-5/8" Drywall Screw Phillips Coarse Thread 1lb Box" on ebay you will find them. I cannot post links here, otherwise I would)
I think a lot of people, including myself, use bolts and T-nuts. You can grab them from Parts Express. Obviously size will depend on your baffle thickness and the size of your woofer's mounting flange.

 
I think a lot of people, including myself, use bolts and T-nuts. You can grab them from Parts Express. Obviously size will depend on your baffle thickness and the size of your woofer's mounting flange.
For daily driving... none competitive systems, your "dry wall" screws will work, sure.

Not recommend, but they'll work.

What he said is your best bet, however, it's obviously up to you.

 
I like T-nuts because they work very well and I can take woofers in and out and never have to worry about stripping screw holes. I have far from a competitive system, they are just very nice to work with. But yeah, those screws will work. Use what ya got bro.

 
I like T-nuts because they work very well and I can take woofers in and out and never have to worry about stripping screw holes. I have far from a competitive system, they are just very nice to work with. But yeah, those screws will work. Use what ya got bro.
Thanks for the advice. Could you link me to some of the T nuts you're talking about? Just so I know for sure.

And are my screws LONG enough? They seem kind of short in my hand.

 
I usually drill all the way through and use 1" self tappers. A 1/8" pilot is good for a #8 screw. If I expect to change the sub or speaker in the future I use Tee Nuts. Tee nuts can be had from Home Depot as well as online. 8-32 is usually right for a sub.

 
1 5/8" Works just fine though as mentioned for bigger subs and higher power systems, especially when mounting upside down or at an angle T-nuts are very helpful.

 
for subs I usually use the larger deck screws.. I've broken too many drywall screws. T nuts are great but they can end up being a pain in the ****, if you do not secure them enough they can just end up spinning and not come out.. which causes all kinds of problems, I like to add some resin or some glue to keep them in place just in case.

 
I have about a pound of these...

They just seem very short and seem like there wouldn't be enough screw going into the wood. But I don't have either yet so I wouldn't know //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

Here's a pic anyway. Would it be more worth it to upgrade to T nuts? Or just stick with what I have? I'd be using it on an American Bass XFL 12". It's heavy, I just want it to be able to sit in there and not break screws.

EDLHt.jpg


 
For single baffled boxes and light subs, I use normal 1 5/8" drywall screws. Same screws I use to assemble boxes.

For double or thicker baffle and heavy subs, I use #8 or #10 x 2" drywall screws or deck screws.

 
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