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asilentfire

Mounting rear speakers upside down for better image and larger stage?

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I have a 1997 Mustang with a Planet Audio AC1800.5 amp, I'm running a JBL comps in front with woofers in stock location and swivel tweets in apillars with 75rms each side. In the trunk I have 2 12" Pioneer Champion Series subwoofers in top facing enclosures in far back corners.

 

Problem is the rear fill.. I have 4 speakers in the (mostly) stock locations, 2 Lanzar Max MX694 coaxial 6x9s that claim to have 340W RMS / pair, wired parallel to a couple of 100W RMS / pair Pioneers.. this isn't the end of the world but as far as SQ this setup is quite destructive to the stage. The Lanzars are mounted parallel with the direction of the car, and the Pioneers are.. umm sideways-- here, I'll draw you a picture; the first and last symbols are the Pioneers and the middle 2 are the Lanzars: -||-

 

I'd like to get some DSP in the future, but I will not be able to afford it for a while, so I'm looking for a cheaper fix to make the stage larger and more balanced. So, my idea, which you may have already guessed, is to turn my lanzars upside down. They are so close together they don't create much atmosphere bouncing off the rear window anyway..

 

I need to go to sleep, any answers when I wake up are appreciated :zzzzz:

 

Thanks guys!

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Oh I really should mention that my rear seats fold down opening up the trunk. My amp is mounted to the back of one of the seats and I sometimes keep them down, so I wonder if the trunk would be a suitable location to point the lanzars into. I know there would be a lot of diffraction but my theory is it would open up the rear stage as to make a more 3D sound.

 

One issue is that the magnets are 60oz and probably wouldn't fit under the rear carpeted "speaker cover", but they might look cool with some imagination.

 

I'll get some pictures up soon.. but its just a normal 1997 Mustang coupe, which I believe is the exact year Crutchfield uses for most/all of their diagrams and demonstrations.

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I'm tempted to do that Smitty, but unfortunately I don't think I could let myself have those speakers and not use them.. Anyone ever put anything on the sides of the rear seats? maybe pointing at the opposing front passenger?

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Ditch the Lanzar's and keep the Pioneer's, I wouldn't be suprised if you're not getting cancellation among the 6x9's with one or more possibly being already wired out of phase. People will debate the need for rear fill from now till the cows come home and IMO it's a matter of personal choice....me....I like rear fill, especially if you're going to be adding a dsp at some point.....

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Yup. Delete the rear. It sounds better. Just bridge your amp to the front comps to give them moar powah.

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Yup. Delete the rear. It sounds better. Just bridge your amp to the front comps to give them moar powah.

 

GIR, I would prefer to keep something in the rear. that sounds wrong, but its not, don't judge me its personal preference if I like it in the rear. *spank*

 

Anyways my amp already provides with each front channel with 240w RMS, and my JBL comps in front only handle 75, they don't need more power. The subs could use that power, but I'm not sure if that would work with the ac1800.5's passive crossovers.

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GIR, I would prefer to keep something in the rear. that sounds wrong, but its not, don't judge me its personal preference if I like it in the rear. *spank*

 

lol

 

Anyways my amp already provides with each front channel with 240w RMS, and my JBL comps in front only handle 75, they don't need more power. The subs could use that power, but I'm not sure if that would work with the ac1800.5's passive crossovers.

 

That amp is rated for 210wrms per channel @ 2 ohms, and everything I've heard about the ac line from P.A. says that they don't do rated. So I would assume that @ 4 ohms, you are getting around 75 watts a channel. And I give my highs over twice their rated power. A lot of people do. Just be sensible with your hpf. settings.

 

 

...am I correctly assuming that since you are using the xovers on the amp, your head unit is stock???

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just disconnect the tweeters/mids on the coaxial wiring at the speaker terminals. then you will just have the woofers for midbass/midrange. lastly, an inductor in series to act as a simple low-pass filter would help overall. you don't want highs behind you and disconnecting them is easier than changing mounting and having visible magnets.

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