need advice but don't bother if you hate newbs and cheap off brand BS

aRandomUserName
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So I have a 2003 Impala that is completely stock. The HU is a single cd player, satellite ready but no sat radio installed, with onstar, and factory 4 way amp (not bose). I am keeping the stock HU for sure but I want to add a single 12 inch sub, and also replace my stock speakers.

I built a box that is approx 1.75 cubic ft and it is sealed. The box is overbuilt having a a 2x4 frame with glued and screwed 3/4 mdf, interior is caulked, it is bombproof.

I have 100 dollars to spend on this, so this is going to be really low end, but hopefully an improvement. Please save the sermons about saving up or whatever, I am a grown man and could spend whatever on this, but I have a family, houses, priorities, etc, and my budget is 100 dollars.

Here is what I am thinking. I want to get this speaker level to line level adapter. Is it trash or will it work ok? Does anyone have any experience with this specific one? Will it be alright connected between my factory amp and my rear deck speakers? I just registered so I cant post links or images but it is a "Gino High to Low Line Out 2 RCA Socket Car Audio Converter" on Amazon for 5 dollars.

I already have 2 amps that i can choose from, neither are ideal, but i own them from a long time ago. One is a pioneer GM-X362 40 watt continuous times 2 with a built in low pass filter. The second is a RF Punch 300x 37.5x4 continuous into 4 ohms, 75x4 at 2 ohm also with built in low pass filter. I need to use one of these to drive my 12 inch sub. Suggestions?

For the sub, ok here is where things get dicey, after reading a lot of reviews, I have convinced myself that a Pyle like this one will fit the bill for me. I dont expect a lot here, just a sub that can be heard and felt from within the car, that can be driven by one of my amps that I already own. I want opinions on this please. Anyone have experience with this sub? If my expectations are right, I may be happy yes no?

"PYLE PLW12RD 12-Inch 800 Watt Subwoofer" on Amazon for 28 dollars

Also, I am considering some cheap pyle 6.5s and 6x9s for replacing the stock gear. I know there are much better options, but after reading a lot of reviews, people are typically impressed by these speakers and they seem to satisfy pretty much everyone. What do you think, might be a lot better than stock? Could my stock speakers be better than these?

 
i have a single 4 ohm Fusion sub that would work out really well and sound decent and get plenty loud for you. Should be able to use your Pioneer amp at 4 ohm bridged with no problems.

Also, to everyone posting in here not following the rules and just post dumping...this is not the dome. This is the tech section....which means there is no post dumping so move on if you have no ability to help out with the topic.

 
i have a single 4 ohm Fusion sub that would work out really well and sound decent and get plenty loud for you. Should be able to use your Pioneer amp at 4 ohm bridged with no problems.


Also, to everyone posting in here not following the rules and just post dumping...this is not the dome. This is the tech section....which means there is no post dumping so move on if you have no ability to help out with the topic.


ok mister moderatorizer....

 
I would not get that Gino LOC from Amazon, it is not powered, so gain matching with your amp will be almost impossible. I would not recommend the Sub you found, but I would rock Pro-Rabbits Fusion if I had too. I have heard them before, and a good entry level sub, as long as your not expecting 150 db.

This will help with some installation woes when they arise. Check the entire database for as much information as you would need. There is a lot there and will help you save some cash by installing it correctly.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-reference-database/534215-how-set-gains-dmm.html

As far as speakers, I would recommend these:

Cadence Acoustics Xenith Series XS694, 6" x 9" 250 Watt Four-Way Coax Speaker System

Not just because I am sponsored by them, but they are slim, easy to install, high sensitivity so it won't take as much power to run them, and are fairly cheap. Let us know if you have any other questions!

 
I would not get that Gino LOC from Amazon, it is not powered, so gain matching with your amp will be almost impossible. I would not recommend the Sub you found, but I would rock Pro-Rabbits Fusion if I had too. I have heard them before, and a good entry level sub, as long as your not expecting 150 db.

This will help with some installation woes when they arise. Check the entire database for as much information as you would need. There is a lot there and will help you save some cash by installing it correctly.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-reference-database/534215-how-set-gains-dmm.html

As far as speakers, I would recommend these:

Cadence Acoustics Xenith Series XS694, 6" x 9" 250 Watt Four-Way Coax Speaker System

Not just because I am sponsored by them, but they are slim, easy to install, high sensitivity so it won't take as much power to run them, and are fairly cheap. Let us know if you have any other questions!
I agree, I didn't see all the info for the LOC he selected. I would look into something like a cache which is $50 from most places. Works great for what it is.

Cache CLOC+D (CLOCD) Line Output Converter w/ Line Driver

Speakers you can use those Cadence or just about any other speakers that fall into your budget to be honest. Some are better then others, but for the most part it won't have a massive difference in your setup.

Also, 1.75ft3 is a bit large for a sealed 12" enclosure....will be fine but will have a low range and low power handling.

 
I honestly don't think those Pyle highs will be an "improvement" over your OEM stuff unless you just want it louder. You might be surprised how good your OEM stuff would sound with some good, clean power on it. I'd just put the Pioneer on your stock stuff if you have the chops to bypass the stock amp and tap back into the wiring. Otherwise, just leave it be. Your stage will drastically improve with some low end.

People don't give their stock stuff a chance. It just gets ripped out. I always run OEM everything and just integrate a sub. When and if I find the HU or highs to be lacking, I then address those issues.

As far as the sub, I think there's better to be had. Here's a proven performer for $100 Crossfire C5 12D4 (C512 D4) C5 12" Dual 4 ohm Car Subwoofer

This one looks ok even though I've never tried it.

NEW STEREO 12" DUAL VOICE 4 Ohm 12" 1400W CAR AUDIO SUB SUBWOOFER 1400 WATT M2 | eBay

And that LLC will work just fine. You don't always have to have a $250 speaker to RCA adapter like most of these guys will tell you. Have you looked at those amps you have lately? They might have speaker level inputs already.

 
Do the 40 dollar pyle/legacy/pyramid/lanzar subs have a place in the market at all, or are they always 100% of the time a waste of money? I mean, they obviously sell a lot of them based on price, and I would expect them to be pretty much useless, but then again, a lot of people are satisfied. Maybe I am one of those people? I will never try to impress anyone with this setup, it will be the opposite really. I will hide the fact that I have a sub at all, only powering up the amp when I am a few miles from the office. I am expecting more bass than I have now, maybe enough to make me grin some. To put it into perspective, I feel that my stock 6x9s thump pretty good. They make the rearview mirror unusable in some frequencies. So these people buy these cheapo subs, and about 75% of them are happy. I am probably more like them, and less like you guys who are more serious about car audio. Is this theory plausible? I did check out the fusion and i can tell from the pictures that it is more for real, heavier, better made etc, but would take the entire 100 dollar budget.

 
Thanks for the tip on 1.75 being to large. I can add more frame to the inside to take up some space if need be. I am good at working with wood and i might add a wooden interior rack that holds screwed in 2x4 blocks. Then I could adjust as needed.

 
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