looking for info 2010-2011 Silverado/Seirra

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Ignatowski
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I am looking for info on how to's on the newer trucks..Panel removal,wiring routes,OEM integration

etc....Cant find much on the new stuff but its that time of year again and I want to reload my new truck with some of my old gear

 
most everything is pop together like all the older trucks. not much has changed except the doors or held on by pop zerts and not the slide-on panel like the older 99-07 trucks. just look for screws before you yank on stuff. and keep a 7mm and t15 drill bit handy as you will need it

 
Crew cab, ext cab or regular cab? i have an 09 crew cab. I have replaced stock door speakers ran power wire for my amps done the big 3 also installed aftermarket headunit.Im getting ready to lift the back seat and build a custom vented box for 2-10" fi ssd's as well as upgrade to 250a altenator. This is probably one of the easier vehicles i have installed an aftermarket stereo in. The most frustrating things are finding space for amps and subs. Let me know if i can help.

 
Crew cab, ext cab or regular cab? i have an 09 crew cab. I have replaced stock door speakers ran power wire for my amps done the big 3 also installed aftermarket headunit.Im getting ready to lift the back seat and build a custom vented box for 2-10" fi ssd's as well as upgrade to 250a altenator. This is probably one of the easier vehicles i have installed an aftermarket stereo in. The most frustrating things are finding space for amps and subs. Let me know if i can help.
my last truck . a 2002 I did a seat lift w a ported 12........I loved it....Ill never do slims or shallows,they all plain **** so If you make some seat lifts bars holla at me ill take a set..Usually 2x2 steel works best ......Amps mount on the back wall

 


It is I Better is saying I know these trucks extremely well. I have done plenty to my 08 crew cab Sierra, subthump ultra deep dual sealed 12" box. Ran RE SeE12Msomps in the 12's till decided to go louder, so that sub set up is gone. I have ran 3 amps, now im down to two now. Big 3 upgrade, inatalled the kicker PDK01 0/1awg amp kit, Installed 6.5" woofer and 1 7/8 tweeter Focal component set. I had to run 3/4" MDF speaker ring adapters to clear the window. I believe it was fo the front, but you could be ok as I am running Focal Utopia comps in the front and Focal K2P. Comps in the rear. Now that I think about it, due to the rear foor being smaller than your front door and your front window and window track location. Depending on your midbass driver's mounting depth, you may have to make your own or buy a pair. I have an extra pair in my garage if you need them. I ran my front tweeters in the factory APiller location. For the rear comps, I flush mounted my tweeterd in my foor just above the mids.

I kept my factory cd player on purpodr. An aftermarket deck would just look tacky in our trucks, so im running a Digital Sound zp

Processor, the Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.1. They made a .2 also, but both aren't made anymore so you'd have to buy one used. If you aare keeping your OEM cd player, then grt a Digital Sound Processor. Don't get s cheap LOC. Its cheap for a reason. This will be the source of your audio. I plan on upgrading my zozezm cd player to a full 7.1" Pioneer AVIC-Z130BT. Its their flagship GPS/DVD model and retails at $1499.99. This way here, still looks stock woth the optional overpriced Navigation screen, but the Z130BT will be 10 x's better than the OEM Navi @ hlf the price.

I raised my rear seats 3 inches with T6 aluminum square tubing. Im currently building a ported box for 4 Sundown Audio SA-8 V2's which will ne here middle next week. Im getting roughly 3.7 cu ft gross just by building a full wood box. I, will be working on a fiberglass boc after this one is done. I get impatient so if I have bSs in my truck, I can really take my time and get creative and make it look really good.

I swear up and down and I am a true believer in Audiopipe amps.

Taking off the trim is easy. Start with the flat long door sills. Work your way around. There are 3 bolts, 7mm I think? In the rear door. Pop off the plate behind the pull handle, there are two of your 3 bolts in there. Right below that, behind the door handle, pop that off. There is your 3rd bolt. Pop off the
window up and down switch block. Its about 8 inches long or so. Unplug it. Start from the bottom and once you get one good pull off, the rest of the rest oof the door comes off easy. I wrote all of this on my phone. I still have alot of advice to give but my $1700 laptop took a crap on me so its getting sent to Asus today maybe. Advice on tips and tricks, exhaus5, etc...

Go in the build log section and search for my thread. I need to update it, but its harder to do withou my laptop.
 
There you go I did my part in this thread
Indeed you did! Im beginning to build up my threads of useful knowledge, experiences, and answers again. Its been a while. I need to get my laptop back so I csn update my build log and add another build log of a customers car I did a couple weekends ago on my birthday weekend. He drove 250 miles for me to install it. I had him help since he wanted to learn so I had to stop every 10 minutes to nelp him, show him how to do something, redo/correct his mistakes,etc... or I would have had it done in two days instead of 4 days. Didn't help the first 2 days we were running around all over north Dallas getting stuff like an amplifier wiring kit that he said he already had, but it was cheapo junk and 8 guage power and ground and among other things like s "2000 watt amp" that actually only put out 400wrms at 2 ohm + more.

 
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