hello, I've had some systems in the past, but I've never really actually done a complete system by myself... I've replaced speakers and changed amps, but running two batteries is different for me. I'll tell you guys what I currently have and maybe I can have some advice on what to do.
2002 Dodge Intrepid SE 2.7L
130 Amp factory alternator
Some factory/walmart battery under the hood
What I have:
(1) Alpine CDE-136BT Head Unit
(1) Jbl 1201.1 1114 watts rms @ 2 ohms
(1) Rockford Fosgate P400 50 watts x 4 @ 4 ohms
(2) kicker 6x9's up to 90 watts rms each @ 4 ohms
(2) kicker 6 1/2's up to 65 watts rms each @ 4 ohms
(2) kicker l7 12 inch 750 watts rms each @ 2 ohms
(1) Stinger SGP32 Isolator
(1) Optima Yellowtop d34/78
(1) Massive 2 farad cap
I am wanting to know if I have my factory battery go to an isolator then to the yellow top (of course fuses in between everything) will there be any problems?
I have had a few car stereo shops tell me that the batteries MUST be identical for a setup like this to work correctly. I thought the isolator prevents the second battery from affecting the first battery.
The reason I bought the second battery is because the space I have under the hood. I don't believe any good yellowtops/kinectic/stinger will fit according to my dimensions.
What I currently plan to buy is a new sub box for the l7's and 0 gauge wire. I've been recommended 0 gauge a few times and going from battery to battery I think it's recommended. I know I will fuse after the first battery, after the isolator, and after the second battery.
Would you guys recommend keeping the cap to be used as a distribution block / helping out as well?
I know most people I talk to they say caps are a joke, but instead of selling it for 30 bucks on craigslist could it still be useful?
How do I install this isolator? I see 2 large terminals and 2 small terminals.
Battery positive --- isolator ---- second battery (including fuses)
Battery negative -- isolator ---- second battery ( include fuses?)
Are the ignition switch and accessory cables a must when dealing with an isolator?
I plan on doing the "big 3" as well
This isn't the best system out there, but it's enough to get my by. I'm just wanting to do it correctly or have I already fucked it up.
I know this is a lot of questions, but I know somebody knows exactly what to do... Thanks for reading and all the help in the past.
2002 Dodge Intrepid SE 2.7L
130 Amp factory alternator
Some factory/walmart battery under the hood
What I have:
(1) Alpine CDE-136BT Head Unit
(1) Jbl 1201.1 1114 watts rms @ 2 ohms
(1) Rockford Fosgate P400 50 watts x 4 @ 4 ohms
(2) kicker 6x9's up to 90 watts rms each @ 4 ohms
(2) kicker 6 1/2's up to 65 watts rms each @ 4 ohms
(2) kicker l7 12 inch 750 watts rms each @ 2 ohms
(1) Stinger SGP32 Isolator
(1) Optima Yellowtop d34/78
(1) Massive 2 farad cap
I am wanting to know if I have my factory battery go to an isolator then to the yellow top (of course fuses in between everything) will there be any problems?
I have had a few car stereo shops tell me that the batteries MUST be identical for a setup like this to work correctly. I thought the isolator prevents the second battery from affecting the first battery.
The reason I bought the second battery is because the space I have under the hood. I don't believe any good yellowtops/kinectic/stinger will fit according to my dimensions.
What I currently plan to buy is a new sub box for the l7's and 0 gauge wire. I've been recommended 0 gauge a few times and going from battery to battery I think it's recommended. I know I will fuse after the first battery, after the isolator, and after the second battery.
Would you guys recommend keeping the cap to be used as a distribution block / helping out as well?
I know most people I talk to they say caps are a joke, but instead of selling it for 30 bucks on craigslist could it still be useful?
How do I install this isolator? I see 2 large terminals and 2 small terminals.
Battery positive --- isolator ---- second battery (including fuses)
Battery negative -- isolator ---- second battery ( include fuses?)
Are the ignition switch and accessory cables a must when dealing with an isolator?
I plan on doing the "big 3" as well
This isn't the best system out there, but it's enough to get my by. I'm just wanting to do it correctly or have I already fucked it up.
I know this is a lot of questions, but I know somebody knows exactly what to do... Thanks for reading and all the help in the past.
