Active Crossover question

You can run an active crossover with seperate channels for each speaker if you want. There are plenty of options for an active setup, but it depends on the goal you are looking for and what to expect from the equipment you purchase. You could spend as little as $300 on a Sundown SAX-100.4 which is capable to run an active setup by itself with no external crossovers. It will get loud depending on the speakers you use, and could sound quite nice, however you probably won't win any SQ awards. Even if you get a DSP with internal Crossovers and EQs, you still might not win SQ awards, because your car might not be an ideal listening environment.

So for advice, I would recommend you find out what sound you are looking for. Once you find that sound, by equipment to get you there. One of the reasons I want to go active, is so I can turn my tweeters down a notch. Mine sit way up in the A-pillars, and can be a bit harsh when the mids are getting to their sweet spot. I don't plan on competing at all, much less for SQ.

Good luck.

Yes,u can run active from the amp but it's MUCH easier to do it from A capable HU with built in crossovers and a built in DSP

active capable decks are the way to go, it makes life so much easier.

If your gonna spend money on an active h/u, get a clean sounding 4 channel and bridge it at the correct ohm load and run the rear speakers off the h/u rear speaker outputs.

Sorry, this is how I run my set up. You are correct about yours, though. Run each individual amp channel to each speaker. The Arc amp will have plenty of headroom, which is good. The Helix, would be a good choice as well. All depends on how much you want to spend on amplifier.

If you want a 4-way active setup you're going to want a DSP for the most versatile solution. If you want to do it all at the head unit you need something like a Pioneer P99RS for $1199 retail or look for discontinued head units along the lines of the Clarion DRZ-9255. A standalone DSP like the Rockford 360.2, Audison Bit One and its siblings, or the JBL MS8 will work on any head unit.

Why not just use your current 5 channel amp? If you are getting a active hu then you could use it for the front stage and sub. Run your rear speaker off the hu if you want them. If you want more power just get a two channel amp for your mids. Then you can use now extra channels for the rear fill.

Why do you want to go active?

If you have a good set of components with a bit of thought put into the passive crossovers, you'll be chasing ghosts for a while trying to get a better sound. Time alignment is neat, but the level setting and EQing is a major PITA and, from experience, you'll never really be satisfied.

In my honest opinion; keep things as simple as possible and use high quality equipment. Outboard DSPs all have their quirks and active capable HU's are all terrible (the affordable ones anyway). My favorite systems have always been the more simple ones. Against my own better judgement, I've tried the active thing a couple times and always went back to passive x-overs and an analog EQ. Wish they made a simple box that only did time alignment, I'd buy that in a heartbeat.

The Pioneer 80PRS and 99RS are both great HU's no doubting that. Pioneer has always had the ability to make some nice high end active HU's. Some people say they are "hard to use" but it took me all of about 10 minutes to figure out how to use my 880 (similar to the 80PRS, just older); so I'd say that ease of use is a plus with them. The independent L-R EQ, Xover points, and slopes they both offer are great additions in helping with level matching the sides to each other.

I was in between the 80 and the 99 for a minute (http://www.caraudio.com/forums/head-units/534541-pioneer-deh-80prs-vs-pioneer-dex-p99rs.html), so I decided I'd pick up a nice "lower line" active deck to try out and see if it was enough for me or if I desired more. By chance, I ran into the 880 for a little more than my budget so I went ahead and picked it up. After using it for a little bit now, I decided I couldn't really justify the $1,300 for the 99. The only reason I'd see to grab a 99 over the 80 is if you plan to run a fully active 3 way front stage plus subs and even then, there are other alternatives. For what you'd pay for that P99RS unit, you could grab an Audison Bit One, JBL MS-8, RF 3Sixty Unit or maybe a Mini DSP for your tuning and active needs and still spend a good bit less. I'm definitely with you on the enjoying of tuning part and spending more once to get what you like. That's why I was seriously considering the P99RS as well. Both would make fine choices just depends on what you're willing to spend for what you get and how you intend to use it.