most effective way to install a woofer?

Tek18
10+ year member

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KY
hey,

so i have been thinking. i just got my woofer in today and checked to see if it would fit in the box and it fit 110%, great fit, but i ran into the issue is it sets down into the box ( i have some MDF above it to make it flush with it basically ) so i can't get my fingers around the sub to get it back out, most effective way was i tilted it and it fell out as i caught it ( the cage hitting the side of the sub kind of, and made a small mark on it >.

anyway. most effective way?

will be wiring it soon //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
edit also:

how deep should the screws be? or big? haha i am not sure and should i just set the sub in there, see how i like it and mark then take out sub, drill, put sb back in, put screws in?

( its a SSD 15" )

 
Don't use regular wood screws, get you some t nuts and bolts, along with washers and washer lock nuts. If you use screws, they won't screw in the same as the previous time if you take them out and eventually they won't screw all the way in at all. You can put your woofer in the box and mark where the holes are then drill them, or just leave your woofer in there and drill the holes, but don't slip cause you will easily damage the surround.

After you got your holes, put in your T-nuts and put the screw through them and screw them in enough so the t-nuts stick into the wood. After this just put your woofer in and screw it down with the screws you have and the lock washers and washers. This is what I did and had no problems.

 
okay thanks!

any sizes screws to be specific? lengths? Diameters? ( as same for washers )

also. my " Cone " i believe it is called, you can see it through the screw holes, can i just drill through it? ( like it looks as if the plate holds it in, and a little bit is coming through where it is being held

 
]Don't use regular wood screws' date=' get you some t nuts and bolts, along with washers and washer lock nuts. If you use screws, they won't screw in the same as the previous time if you take them out and eventually they won't screw all the way in at all.[/b'] You can put your woofer in the box and mark where the holes are then drill them, or just leave your woofer in there and drill the holes, but don't slip cause you will easily damage the surround.
After you got your holes, put in your T-nuts and put the screw through them and screw them in enough so the t-nuts stick into the wood. After this just put your woofer in and screw it down with the screws you have and the lock washers and washers. This is what I did and had no problems.
This may be true in some circumstances however I've been using wood screws for a while now with no issues. As long as you predrill the hole small enough you will be good

 
I use wood screws because I don't plan to pull the sub. If I get a new sub I'll design a new box around that sub as no two of different brands have the same specs.

 
I use wood screws because I don't plan to pull the sub. If I get a new sub I'll design a new box around that sub as no two of different brands have the same specs.
....or you just rotate the sub for some fresh wood. Easy.

 
....or you just rotate the sub for some fresh wood. Easy.
then you have em sitting sideways and looking like ish..

Idk about the rest of you but I keep the sub in the box.. until its time for a new setup.. if you want to rewire like if you got enough electrical to wire it lower then have the cable direct connect so you can do it outside the box

 
i use hurricane nuts lately instead of t-nuts. i use 10-24 for most speakers/subs, or 8-32 for small drivers. you can even get hex nut heads.
Maybe it's just me, but i've had NOTHING but trouble with hurricane nuts and do not recommend them. Invariably, one of them strips, and you're out of luck. Try unscrewing a screw from a hurricane nut that's stripped when you can't reach the back of the hurricane nut to hold it steady. It's no fun //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

Stick to t-nuts, tho, and you're fine. I use 10-24 (or 10-32 can't remember and can't find em, crap) and they hold well with no problems whatsoever.

 
Maybe it's just me, but i've had NOTHING but trouble with hurricane nuts and do not recommend them. Invariably, one of them strips, and you're out of luck. Try unscrewing a screw from a hurricane nut that's stripped when you can't reach the back of the hurricane nut to hold it steady. It's no fun //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
Stick to t-nuts, tho, and you're fine. I use 10-24 (or 10-32 can't remember and can't find em, crap) and they hold well with no problems whatsoever.
I suspect your holes are too big or you are pushing too hard when removing them which can push them out. Those are the two biggest mistakes i see. I also use some adhesive or resin to ensure they don't break loose.

My issue with t-nuts was the wood splitting, which is inevitable with t-nuts.

 
Never used any other method besides that ^^^ But am tired of the holes getting looser and looser (Giggity //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif)

 
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Tek18

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