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Aaron Dixon

At a loss on fixing sub Humming...

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I've been reseaching about why subs hum, and I've tried pretty much everything I've read, except things like LOC and Ground-loop isolator. I traded someone in my family cash for an audio system out of a Ford Ranger.(Maybe it was damaged or dropped is the problem???) I put it in my 98 Sable, so it sounded okay at first, but I got a better and vented box for the 10 inch kickers. Now I can hear a very loud buzz/hum. At first I had all the same wires running next to each other, so I moved the RCA to the other side of the car...it kind of helped, but not too much. I can hear it beat, while it's humming, if I push the trunk lock, and I've even noticed when I stop, then take off, it gets a bit louder then levels off...This is only really noticeable with no music playing. When the radio is off or the deck is loading is when it hums so loud you can feel it in your chest. Now if I go and just look or feel the subs while music is playing I can feel and see it beating not to music, but to a constant interferance tempo....Everything I've looked at tells me GROUND problems, but I've checked them again and again. The amp is grounded under the rear seat, and the deck plugs into a harness, which the ground comes out to the truck screwed down. I used wire nuts to secure the wires on the back of the deck. If I unplug one of the RCA from either side the humming cuts almost to none, but if I unplug 2 from one side, it hums really loud again. I'm no pro at this, and I'm thinking I'm overlooking something, or could it be damaged amp or deck? Since this car has me used a harness I had the amp remote, deck remote connected to harness ignition.

I'm also ASSUMING this worked in the Ranger without a hum, I didn't it hear, but could see it with the small boxes (I saw it hitting with not music playing in MY car), but now with the "Polk Audio" box....well the hum.

 

Here is what I'm using-

new sosche wiring kit (remote, power, ground, RCA all for amp)

new sosche 98 sable kit ( 98 conversion harness, NOS faceplate,antenna,)

used Proformance Teknique DVD deck

used Power Acustic amp

used 10 inch 2X kickers (not sure what OHM or anything)

 

I really want this solved, if you need pictures I'll take them.

Thanks, Aaron

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I traded someone in my family cash for an audio system out of a Ford Ranger.

 

around here, thats called buying. ;)

 

start by grounding the rca's to the deck.


1994 Thunderbird

JVC KD-AV7010

Alpine 6x9 3-ways

Pioneer 6x8 3-ways (rear)

JVC CH-X1500 12-disc MP3 Changer

Alpine Type X 12" 2 cubes @ 30hz

MTX 404 runs the inside

MTX 1501d runs the X

Optima G75/25 RT up front

2x Optima G31 YT in the trunk

200a EA HO Alt (1/0 Big 3)

ALL MY WIRE IS WELDING CABLE :fyi:

I always knew I was a feggot.
We're all feggots on the inside :fyi:
I am sure the administration will be having a few words with you when they catch wind of your language.

DO NOT SEND ME ANYTHING USING UPS. I WILL NOT DEAL WITH THEM EVER AGAIN :fyi:

OFFICIAL FEEDBACK THREAD

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start by grounding the rca's to the deck.

 

I've heard of this too, but the RCA input/outputs on the deck are on cords, then turn to RCA plugs with caps on them. How would I ground them?

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look up 'grounding rcas'

 

basically strip about 4-6" of speaker wire, then wrap said wire around the rca outputs, in a figure 8 or similar. then take the pigtail end you have left and use a close screw on the HU to secure it.

 

something like this:

644225.jpg

 

then i want a cookie.


1994 Thunderbird

JVC KD-AV7010

Alpine 6x9 3-ways

Pioneer 6x8 3-ways (rear)

JVC CH-X1500 12-disc MP3 Changer

Alpine Type X 12" 2 cubes @ 30hz

MTX 404 runs the inside

MTX 1501d runs the X

Optima G75/25 RT up front

2x Optima G31 YT in the trunk

200a EA HO Alt (1/0 Big 3)

ALL MY WIRE IS WELDING CABLE :fyi:

I always knew I was a feggot.
We're all feggots on the inside :fyi:
I am sure the administration will be having a few words with you when they catch wind of your language.

DO NOT SEND ME ANYTHING USING UPS. I WILL NOT DEAL WITH THEM EVER AGAIN :fyi:

OFFICIAL FEEDBACK THREAD

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pic didn't work. but if i get what you're saying, then do it at the amp. mine are done at the amp and the HU.

 

edit: or wrap the wire onto the rca plug and leave the jacket on the length of wire back to the HU and use a screw like shown.

 

edit x2: never heard of your HU brand, so it probably wouldnt hurt to get another one and try it at least.


1994 Thunderbird

JVC KD-AV7010

Alpine 6x9 3-ways

Pioneer 6x8 3-ways (rear)

JVC CH-X1500 12-disc MP3 Changer

Alpine Type X 12" 2 cubes @ 30hz

MTX 404 runs the inside

MTX 1501d runs the X

Optima G75/25 RT up front

2x Optima G31 YT in the trunk

200a EA HO Alt (1/0 Big 3)

ALL MY WIRE IS WELDING CABLE :fyi:

I always knew I was a feggot.
We're all feggots on the inside :fyi:
I am sure the administration will be having a few words with you when they catch wind of your language.

DO NOT SEND ME ANYTHING USING UPS. I WILL NOT DEAL WITH THEM EVER AGAIN :fyi:

OFFICIAL FEEDBACK THREAD

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Grounded the RCA on amp....still nothing different. I tried taking the ground that goes to the harness and grounded the deck to the firewall, didn't change anything either....Could the amp be bad as well? Or is this stricly a deck problem?

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edit: or wrap the wire onto the rca plug and leave the jacket on the length of wire back to the HU and use a screw like shown.

 

try this. it could also be the amp i suppose.


1994 Thunderbird

JVC KD-AV7010

Alpine 6x9 3-ways

Pioneer 6x8 3-ways (rear)

JVC CH-X1500 12-disc MP3 Changer

Alpine Type X 12" 2 cubes @ 30hz

MTX 404 runs the inside

MTX 1501d runs the X

Optima G75/25 RT up front

2x Optima G31 YT in the trunk

200a EA HO Alt (1/0 Big 3)

ALL MY WIRE IS WELDING CABLE :fyi:

I always knew I was a feggot.
We're all feggots on the inside :fyi:
I am sure the administration will be having a few words with you when they catch wind of your language.

DO NOT SEND ME ANYTHING USING UPS. I WILL NOT DEAL WITH THEM EVER AGAIN :fyi:

OFFICIAL FEEDBACK THREAD

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Take your subs out the box and check all connections. You said this problem started happening when you switched boxes and it's coming from the subs so I would start by checking there. You may have put a positive/negative wire in the wrong terminal.


Headunit - Pioneer DEH-P8300UB

Subs - None

Sub Amp - 2x Crescendo 3kwp

Front Stage - Polk Audio db651 Coaxial

Front Amp - None

 

Most properly done 15 inch subwoofers are not suited for car audio use simply due to box size requirements.

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It's not switched wires, and I checked just to make sure. Also, it did do it before I switched boxes. Sorry if I didn't make that clear. The subs have A LOT more power now. Before I switched boxes, my stock subs by the rear window overpowered the kickers, but if you went and looked at the subs, they clearly were hitting even with my music, just like they are now. Pretty drastic change, the only thing I changed in the sub box was the original wires that go to sub to the outlet in the back were not long enough, so I made them longer. This is a ground issue.. it changes with RPM and other electronics in the car. I did the wire grounding to the deck too. I'm guessing the HU or amp is bad now......HU AUX doesn't work I just found out...So...I'll start with replacing it.

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you dont have the gain on the amp maxed out do you?


1994 Thunderbird

JVC KD-AV7010

Alpine 6x9 3-ways

Pioneer 6x8 3-ways (rear)

JVC CH-X1500 12-disc MP3 Changer

Alpine Type X 12" 2 cubes @ 30hz

MTX 404 runs the inside

MTX 1501d runs the X

Optima G75/25 RT up front

2x Optima G31 YT in the trunk

200a EA HO Alt (1/0 Big 3)

ALL MY WIRE IS WELDING CABLE :fyi:

I always knew I was a feggot.
We're all feggots on the inside :fyi:
I am sure the administration will be having a few words with you when they catch wind of your language.

DO NOT SEND ME ANYTHING USING UPS. I WILL NOT DEAL WITH THEM EVER AGAIN :fyi:

OFFICIAL FEEDBACK THREAD

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Okay, I think I'm on to SOMETHING, but not sure what...

I changed the deck to a Kenwood KDC-348U, so I now have a lot more control over the sound, plus I know nothing is wrong internally. I moved the remote wire away from the amp power cable. I moved the amp ground. I did get a ground loop isolator, but I removed it because it kept blowing fuses. Now when the HU is off it DOES NOT hum in a deafening tone, but more like a small buzz that barely moves the subs. BUT BUT....after about 20 seconds the deafening tone comes back full blast. I bought a cut off switch that I'm going to install tomorrow for the amp...Not a fix, but a cheat I guess...Since moving the remote helped a bit...I should say the wiring harness that came with my 98 kit is still by it, but the noise is only from the subs. I did not ground the new HU RCA ports. Any other suggestions??

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I have had an issue before with humming/noise. Sometimes running the power wire along side with the rcas will do that too?? Also check or find another location for the amp ground?? May be loose also?? Something to consider??Or bad rca connection on radio/amp??


2)American Bass VFL Mini Hybrid 4480.1D@1ohm Ea 4)American Bass XFL DVC 4ohm 12s@2.06cu Ft Ea.@32htz CDT 6,5 HD6 Briax.,CDT CL60,CDT 25 tweets,Kicker KS25 tweets Autotek Mean Machine 99@2ohms,Autotek BTX 7204@40hms AlterStarts Alt 255A/Dallas,Tx,2)Orileys Super Start AGM batts(1more coming)Cadence CCA 0ga on Big 6,AudioTechnix 0ga CCA Kicker Kq9 Eq,Eclipse CD3000(lookingfor upgrade)StingerPro Distro,3)XS Scorpian 8in Scroll Fans 1998 3dr Xcab Chevy(under construction,but operational)

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wait, do you still have it run through the loc? if so, get your sinal right off the deck, or cross the speakers over so that they play high/mid only (capcitor, or passive cross-overs), or simply unplug the speakers that you get the signal from. i have seen it many times, the speakers are acting like a microphone and feeding the amp a signal from any louder noise, like closing the door, or hitting bumbp, etc, and the defaning tone is it feeding the noise from the subs right back to them. i have seen it way worse than what you have going on. you hae to stop sound from being fed to the rca jacks by the speakers. if you need an loc, passive crossover is the only way to keep your speakers hooked up that feed the signal. low out on the cross-over should feed only the loc.


*IF I have forgotten to exchange feedback, please let me know*

i buy broken amps....

No, i will not "gift" paypal. please do not even make it awkward by asking. if the fees are an issue, I am usually inclined to add them. unless you have discount elsewhere, shipping is through usps flat rate, through usps parcel post, or through the roof..... i am in alaska. thanks

-Heath H-

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