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My amp and sub setup in my trunk works well except that the amp overheats regularly. It's a 4-channel amp, so I have two options for wiring the sub: bridged and unbridged. When it's unbridged, it's weak but it doesn't overheat as much. When it's bridged it sounds awesome but overheats after a few minutes, depending on the temperature outside. At first I thought that the ground wasn't good enough, so I moved it to the one of the bolts on the rear strut tower and sanded down every surface until shiny metal. I also cut the ground wire down to 18" or less. It still overheats. Maybe I need a higher gauge wire? I went to this audio shop and this guy told me to try switching the sub from channels 1 and 2 bridged to channels 3 and 4 bridged. So I did. Not sure what it did. I also might need to tune the setup more accurately, but I don't know that that has much to do with overheating issues.
My car (95 Civic if you're wondering) came wired by the previous owner for a subwoofer. 4 gauge power wire from the battery to the trunk, 4 gauge ground, and a remote wire and RCA cables from the radio to the trunk. Power and ground are both OFC. Back in April, I got a used amp and a sub and put it in my trunk. I don't know much about audio/electrical, but I'll list what I know about my setup below:
The amp I got is a PlanetAudio 4-channel amp (I know it's meant for speakers, but it at least works for the sub and I got it for $50). Here it is.
The sub is a Pioneer. Don't know the model number, but the reading on the multimeter at the terminals tells me it's a 4-ohm sub. It's a single voice-coil subwoofer.
What I don't understand is what bridging does to the impedance of the circuit. From my understanding, you want to match the impedance as close as you possibly can. So, if my amp is 4 ohms, I want a 4 ohm speaker to match it. Does bridging channels 1 and 2 put the impedance at 2 ohms and make it unstable? Or does running the sub on 1 channel put it at 8 ohms and make it more stable? I don't quite understand.
Another quick few things. I have no money, but I still appreciate advice like "get a new amp" or "get a fan to blow air on it" even though I won't be able to follow through with it until I pay for college. Advice concerning the wiring will be much more valuable to me.
Thanks for the help, guys.
Looking for advice on what i should buy. It's between Earthquake DBXI-12D and. https://www.ebay.com/p/KICKER-Compr-12-Dual-Loaded-Enclosure-40DCWR122-With-20-FT-Auvio-Premium-Cable/1808008056?iid=183407122706&chn=ps&ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252FroverBy Latenightkreeper
. It's between Earthquake DBXI-12D and. https://www.ebay.com/p/KICKER-Compr-12-Dual-Loaded-Enclosure-40DCWR122-With-20-FT-Auvio-Premium-Cable/1808008056?iid=183407122706&chn=ps&ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frover I will be pushing one or the other with a 1000 watt rms kicker monoblock
So I recently purchased 4 Polk Audio DB652's for my 2012 Subaru Impreza (with a stock in-dash stereo). I like them but I wanted more out of them so I purchased a Pioneer D9605 5 channel amp. I chose this amp because I wanted to see more output from my current 4 door speakers and a sub woofer that I am planning on getting (Rockford Fosgate P3D4 12"). I feel like I got my amp without being well informed on other factors and was wondering what some great car enthusiast think of my purchases and car audio goals. Ask any questions that I would need to further clarify to help y'all help me! Also, are the Polk door speakers I got that great?
All help and recommendations are very much appreciated!!!
P.s. I don't have a large knowledge of car audio if it isn't yet obvious.
Ok, so to start off I am new to the forum and I really hope you guys will be able to help me on this one.
My current setup is 2 kicker s12d solo barics (old school) and a memphis pr2.100 amp. The amp was an upgrade from my old MTX Thunder 325.
Ever since i swapped amps I had a minor issue where the amp wasn’t getting properly powered on and I could usually get the big blue light and power light to come on by hitting the amp (gently) or moving the fuses up and down.
Recently, the amp has been acting strange and it will not power on at all. I can get the big blue memphis logo to light up a little by wiggling fuses, but it eventually shuts off and the amp itself never fully powers on.
Today I changed my ground wire to a nice thick copper wire with a copper terminal. I also readjusted my remote wire to ensure all of my connections were perfect. It worked for about 35 minutes and then cut out, and now I can’t even get the amp to turn on for a few seconds. And yes, I checked the fuse under the hood.
Anyone have a clue what could be the problem? It’s an older system, but hasn’t been abused and worked fine for at least 4 months before this happened. I really would like to avoid buying another amp because I am currently buying a new headunit and some jeep mods.
Any input is appreciated.